bubba

I'd go for something around 260' in the biggest lift you can get (that will still fit your head).

I have a '98 RS4-V (series 2, tiptronic auto) with 159,000km's on the clock (had 120,000 when I got it). It's got Tein coilovers all round (non-adj.), hiflow turbo, split dump, 3" exhaust, fmic, splitfire coils and a Haltech e11v2 (from previous owner, doesn't talk to auto, will be going Nistune soon). Oh and R33 GTSt seats, stock ones are crap, skylines seats sit you in the car properly and makes you feel more part of the car as opposed to riding on it. The tune is pretty shitty and rich in places, the auto can be a little funny if you're not used to how it reacts to not getting signals from the ECU. VCT isn't set up with the Haltech so it's laggy as, does nothing till 3500rpm, pulls hard from 4000rpm to redline. All easily fixed with a Nistune ecu. Even with the minor issues, it is still an awesome car to drive! The suspension sits nicely with my 18's, I have never scraped anything. The tiptronic is excellent for cruising around town and great for holding it in gear during spirited hills driving etc. Even with the shitty tune and no VCT I still get almost 400km/tank around down, highway driving gets that up a bit more and country driving I get 600km/tank. I believe it is the ultimate tourer. I can fit heaps of shit and the little things like, can release back seats while standing at the back, back seats reclining etc etc are great, everytime I find a new "little thing" it makes me love the car a little bit more. I cannot think of a more practical, yet still fun, car out there. When compared with other cars of the same era and ilk (VT/VX commodore wagons etc) the difference is chalk and cheese. When people find out it's a 1998, they spin out. And what can beat dishing some smackdown in a lunchbox? Now, this is only my daily. I have another toy (heavily modified 32gtst) which is the "fun" car. I have found that a lot of people get Stageas thinking they can get them to go like skylines but it's just not going to happen, I bought my wagon from one such disillusioned owner with a lot of the mods already done. That being said, I love the fact that the engine is in the same family as my 32, it makes working on the car a lot easier and while it's a big heavy lunchbox, the handling of the thing is phenomenal, very reminiscent of the skylines I have driven. It is also a super safe family car what with the airbags, ABS and ATESSA 4WD setup. I have to try REALLY hard to get it even slightly out of shape. Enough dribbling, if you want to hear more about offroad adventures and other stuff, PM me:) P.S. not a fan of M35's.

+1 I used a T piece and retained the stock sender.

The ECU's from the different models seem to be less tolerable as the years went on. My R32 RB20DET ECU handled everything from full exhaust/fmic upgrades, 14psi on stock turbo, 12psi on 25 turbo AND in the end, a 3L bottom end. Here's another bit of trivia.. stock afm made 183rwkw on the RB20 with no signs of maxxing. Same afm on the 30 making the same power (same turbo), maxxed out a little over 6000rpm.

Doesn't the consolidated workshop thread of a list of jap wreckers?

My ASR sump is a work of art.

Some don't like it, some do. It is what I will be doing.

I'm using an RB20 water pump.

Really depends where you want to make the power, my mate has 280' 10.5mm cams in his 25DET/30+T04Z, it's a bit laggy but fkn screams to 8000+, oh and sounds awesome I'm sticking with the DE cam for now as they made decent power in the last 30 setup, 365rwkw @ 21psi through a pair of 2540s (bad), stock throttlebody/plenum (RB20), and I'd prefer the lower down from the shorter duration, I'm not bolting a HUGE turbo (GT35R) on so small cams and keeping the rev limit sensible (7500ish depending on when it stops making power) is the name of the game for me.

I call bullshit. It does happen.

If it's RWD then you can slot the engine mounts to drop it down some. Also the fouling I had (in my 32) was not the J-pipe, but the most forward corner of the intake plenum, and the lip of the timing belt cover.

The wagon nearly stalled out in a MASSIVE puddle just before, then popped and farted for a few mins under any load

How odd.. I could see going smaller diameter at the back with bigger profile and lower pressure to help get off the line. Personally I like 18" 40 series rubber on the front for pointability but it does mean the rears spin up a bit easier.

Personally I'd rather a more agressive cold start to remind me not to hammer the car when cold, with the 3L it drives perfectly fine under 2000rpm on cold mornings, torque ftw

20/26 is yellow and 25 is brown

lulz Dogs for drifting, horses for offroading... Is there an all wheel drive animal with a low centre of gravity? more like a GTR? you know.. mainly rear wheel drive but will kick its' front legs in when it needs the extra traction?

A Mines ECU is essentially a remap, not Nistune. Nistune is a daughterboard that allows live tuning over the consult port. I guess you *could* remap a Mines ECU but it would be just like remapping a stock ECU, no benefit whatsoever because you got a _MINES_ one to start with. Just Nistune it.

Any idea if there will be live streaming of Superlap?

+11ty skidvidz ftw!

Caught some GT1 racing on Foxtel the other night, there were a couple of GTR's in the top 10 and even though they weren't winning.. I still had a chubby watching v8 35R's punting around the track

Very good info in that thread^^^

Definitely check clearances, I didn't the first time and it cost me a new oil pump and almost a new block (and probably everything else if I didn't catch it in time).

You better hope that gasket seals where the o-ring used to be..

My wagon is actually more efficient at 140 than 90.

The pickup in the block is in a different location isn't it? Pretty sure you have to use the RB30 pickup... Highly advise an ASR sump/pickup, mine is a work of art! Oh and get a decent balancer..