bubba

All the time.

Rotates them down about 15 degrees yeah? No clashes with the lower ball joint? I wonder what the difference between 32 and 33 4wd hubs is.. maybe I should just knock some 14mm adapters up and give it a bash on the Stag. I swear last time I had a go something was hitting the lower ball joint and wouldn't bolt up correctly

600km in a day is nothing.. I did Albany and back in the wagon, same day I'd be more than happy to do a day trip to Albany again, the roads are quite nice and if we left at say 8am, that would leave enough time for a nice lunch and then on the road to get back to Perth before dark. I like long drives, but Brad, remember our last hills run together? I'd like to do it again but minus the stone chip

Cool bananas!

They have an airflow meter OVERVOLTAGE cut not a BOOST cut, and I believe it is kind of map based (i.e. it might see 4v at 6000rpm and think that is OK but if it sees 4v at 3000rpm it might flip out).

+11ty

Yeah I know this, it was the little in-betweeny-bits between the main spokes of the 34GTT rims that were rubbing (as they dip back in a bit). Got plenty of room with the 18's now! Anyway, answer my question about rotating the caliper down 15 degrees please

They have them in Sydney on all the toll ways, they also have several fixed radars in all of the tunnels. Good thing I was driving a 12 seat Hiace commuter last time I was there.. 0-80 in like 30 seconds lol.

Wow srs? my 324mm rotors with 33gtst calipers just fit inside 17" 34GTT rims.. they actually fit better than when running the 296mm rotors as with the smaller rotors I had to run a 3mm spacer to stop the rims binding up on the calipers. Pushing the caliper further out to suit the bigger rotor moved the caliper away from the bits of the rim that were clashing and didn't need the spacer anymore. What did you do to solve the issue with the 4wd hub? I've got some CAZ adapter brackets (different style to the ones on my 32, spaces straight out instead of changing the angle like the 32 ones) at home I need to try but they are for 12mm bolts and my wagon hubs are 14mm Hey Bart, would there be any detrimental effects to rotating the caliper down 15 degrees? I haven't notived any increase in dive at all.

I'm running 324mm slotted rotors, 33gtst calipers, DS2500 pads, braided lines and a master cyl. stopper.. hauls up alright Trying to figure out how to fit similar on the wagoon.. adapter brackets don't want to fit on the 4wd hubs

3" ceramic xforce supposed "race" cat, cost me power and response on my 30det and that was only making 183rwkw at the time, not like it was a powerhouse.

I've used my exedy on my RB20 with RB20 box and then RB25t box, THEN I used it behind my RB30 with 25t box.

I'm not sure you WANT the throttle plate completely closed at idle.. that might be causing the surge on decel and the hunting at idle as the AAC is trying to do more than it was meant for.. I could be completely wrong but to my logic you need to have the throttle plate open ever so slightly at idle (hence the use of the stop screw to set the base idle) and then the AAC is there to adjust for extra load from aircon, headlights etc etc.

I've had 32gtst, 32R and 33gtst calipers sitting next to each other and didn't notice a difference in piston size O_o The only thing I noticed was that the 32R calipers were lighter and the 33gtst looked stronger (more meat in certain places) than the 32gtst and 32R.

More revs when you grab 2nd

I'm down for a small meet & greet on the public holiday Monday, but I'd like a hills run at least! Then we can use that opportunity to discuss a day trip down south

It it was completely stuffed then it would probably going into limp mode, if it's just a bit dirty it would probably just run lean or rich, not sure which but I would lean towards lean as it would probably not be reading as much air as was actually coming in. This would make trying to hit the target idle AFR (stoich) hard as it thinks it is doing one thing but it's actually doing the other. I'd give it a clean just to be on the safe side and maybe try swap the AFM and AAC with known working units. Also, cleaning the AAC will do nothing if the bypass hose is no longer connected. I would return everything to stock, clean the AFM, check and/or replace all vaccum hoses (can be hard to identify a split/cracked hose) and take it from there.

+1 I've been through a couple of upgrades on my 32gtst, shoot me a PM if you need to clarify anything.

Can't help there mate, I've always tried to make mine louder!

Coppers are just fine.

Go to your local exhaust shop and get them to weld an extra muffler in.

Check ALL vaccum hoses, there are some troublesome ones under the throttlebody. Also, why did they block off all the hoses to/from the AAC? Adjusting the stop screw is only one way of physically adjusting the idle, there is also a little screw on the ECU that electronically adjusts it. It's not running an atmo bov or catch can is it? Tried cleaning the AFM?

I used RB30 mounts and redrilled the brackets to lower the engine.

So that's $175 per tire, delivered? that's pretty bloody good. I run the same size and type tires on my Stag and I usually pay bout 200/tyre depending on where I go. It's usually last minute so I just ring around and find the cheapest in stock.

lol yeah dude, "official" means I got caught Nailed by a cop with a laser.. from 315m away! This way back in the days before hoon laws etc.. I was 5km/h off losing my license on the spot and being taken away in a squad car