bubba

lol yeah nothing like singing a tailgaters bumper

+11ty for teh search.

Flat shifting is not lifting the throttle when shifting

1: highly doubt it, reputable tuner here in Perth that I have used a fair bit and he wasn't trying to sell me anything 2: they were completely stock. 3: stock fpr. Srsly guys, it is NOT a clear cut THIS IS WHEN YOU WILL MAX SOMETHING OUT. Tell me, who has maxed a stock afm? and the circumstances? RB20DET, stock afm, stock injectors, stock ecu, 12psi through RB25 turbo, 183rwkw - AFM NOT MAXED I then went RB30DET, stock afm, stock injectors, stock ecu, 12psi through RB25 turbo, 183rwkw (a lot sooner) - AFM MAXED AT ~6000rpm But anyway, a dyno is NOT a COMPARISON tool unless you are all using the SAME dyno on the SAME day with the SAME parameters. If you are going to argue with me about 20hp, then you're a dickhead.

You can't open them up but you can squish the housing a bit to add some preload, have a search as I'm sure I've seen it covered here somewhere before.

No cat, rich tune, atmo venting bov. I used to get bigger/more predictable flames when under load, made tunnel runs amusing

Excellent info! thank you very much! Will probably be the weekend before I get another chance to play around but I shall cross reference with the Haltech and see what it thinks the water temp is and take it from there. Very happy knowing that the VCT circuit and solenoid are working. I'm pretty certain it's NOT running a low temp. thermostat as I vaguely recall seeing temps around 80deg last time I had the laptop plugged in.. maybe the Haltech is using a different (read: not stock) water temp. sensor.. I know when I tried to use an Rb25 sensor with an RB20 ECU it thought it was in cold start all the time Thanks for bearing with me guys, this whole VCT thing is pretty new to me.. I'm used to the old RB20's and my non-VCT'd RB30DET There is some wonderful information cropping up in this thread now so hopefully it helps others out in the future too!

+11ty What cams?

Sweet, thought so. Got the carpc in and working so now I have datascan to see what the stock ecu thinks is going on.. VCT isn't working in normal operation but I can turn it on in the self-test, it does enable and there is a noticable change at idle, I went for a lap but only took it to 4500ish and I did notice a difference. So my next question is, what could the stock ECU possibly be missing (input wise) that VCT would require to operate?? Nothing appeared out of the ordinary other than afm hitting 5.12v (running 3bar map sensor) and inj duty 91% it doesn't appear to be lacking any inputs that I can see Edit: although.. I am sceptical on the water temp.. the highest I saw was 66deg, I need to plug the laptop into the haltech and see what that thinks the water temp is, no idea if that affects the VCT logic.

Restricting the size of the bov orifice in an attempt to decrease the amount of air it can vent, will just cause more flutters... I don't think you'll be able to get less bov noise without also getting less induction noise (i.e. change filters).

Cheers for that NIB, my next question was going to be what voltage is required How would I wire the solenoid up? 12v to pin 2 on solenoid plug then pin 1 to output on Haltech?

Mine were nowhere near maxed out at 183rwkw..

Yeah who needs a dedicated system?

Nice! very tidy indeed!

Got the stock swaybars?

The fact that he can push through the misfire leans me away from being sensor related but no harm in checking.

OK first off, I'm going to ask wtf you're revving it to 7k when it's not up to temp?! Then, I'm going to suggest igniter or coil harness, check with known good items. My temp. related misfire issues were due to the plastic inside the coil plugs deteriorating and falling apart.

NFI why it's not connected (I didn't put the Haltech in) but it doesn't work, I need to narrow down WHY it doesn't work but it's not set up in the Haltech and unplugging the solenoid makes no difference (there is a wierd hesitation around 3500rpm that made me unsure if the VTC was working but set up wrong). I'll dig the multimeter out and see if I'm getting any voltage at the solenoid when I rev it up. Cheers!

Do you mean "rev matching" as opposed to "flat shifting"?? If you're talking about driving it like a crash box, in trucks it's more about roadspeed than revs in a gear (you will change up or down at particular revs but which gear you grab depends on your roadspeed, which in a truck is hugely affected by road gradient), because we have wide powerbands and fewer gears, it's harder to rev match in petrol cars and is by no means an efficient/economical way to drive. I have had to shift without a clutch when I snapped my fork pivot, was an absolue ass of a thing to do but it was 3am and I had to get it to the workshop.

I used an unmodified Navara sender for the speedo but I'm running 3.9:1 diff gears, the 17T Navara cog matched up pretty nicely. I also didn't notice much difference in 5th at 100km/h going from the RB20 to the RB25t box.

Soon you'll be clutching 2nd

1. Yes. How long is a piece of string? put a decent (read: Bosch minimum) fuel pump in. 2. Yes. Good bang for buck. Untuned, I got an extra 50rwhp and more fun in the top end. 3. Wind it up until it pings. With the stock RB20 turbo my engine handled 14psi and made ~200rwhp. With the RB25 turbo is would only take 12psi (14psi and she pinged) but made ~250rwhp. 4. Plenty, but better off saving up and Nistuning it. 5. 180rwkw with a tune is easy, mine was mkaing 183ish (~250rwhp) without a tune. Stock injectors should be good for almost 200rwkw.

Welcome aboard!

You're adding a chunk of steel to one end of a looong crank.. I'd sure as hell want it balanced afterwards..

Ok, so due to circumstances outside of my control, I still have the Haltech e11v2 in my Stagea. However, I am getting tired of the lack of VCT.. I have been through my Haltech setup and it is most definitely NOT set up. After a bit of research I became rather confuzzled with people saying the VCT on Neo engines is constantly variable but after finding a copy of an R34 workshop manual, it says the VCT solenoid is ON/OFF in operation.. SO, what I am planning to do is cut the wire to ECU pin #117 (Haltech is wired in as a piggyback), and wire it to one of the Haltechs' auxillary outputs to switch it on at 1100rpm and off at 4500rpm. What I am after here is any experienced input.. suggestions.. problems.. Another thing is, the stock ECU is still getting an RPM signal (according to datascan), is that enough for it to still control the VCT solenoid? if it is, and it should still be operational.. I will have to investigate the wiring a little and/or swap in a known working solenoid. Cheers in advance!