bubba

I call BS. More accurate than some chinese POS maybe, but I would even trust one of those over the stock gauge.

Holy shit that sits high.. must be time for a bulge

No, my radar detector going off is quite effective at making me slow down

No drifting and no burnout comps, that's what my 32 is for A small skid here and there and the odd powerslide is all I'm looking for.. missing the lack of traction with the 32 off the road hehe Will be trying the plug disconnect + pump brake pedal on my way home this arvo. Oh and there is further discussion on this in a thread in the Drivetrain area

iDidnt.

His is an R33.. I know the 32 will light up the HICAS light if the fluid level is low but doubt the R33 does the same..

Because there's an accumulator and a solenoid maintaining pressure in the line? I think the key would be to cut power to the pump AND de-energise the solenoid so as to relieve the residual pressure in the transfer case.. That or fool the CU into thinking the case is over pressurising and thus bleed the pressure off.. Got nothing to do at work today so I'm reading reading reading Going to give the "disconnect plug + pump brake pedal 5 times in 10 seconds" thing a bash on the way home.

Hmm cool, keep me posted If we could figure out what signal the pressure switch gives the CU at the maximum possible end of its' scale, then we could trick the CU into thinking that the transfer case is over-pressurised, hopefully causing it to bleed pressure.. just thinking out loud here.. I've got some heaving reading of manuals to do before bed each night Still searching for one with a comprehensive ATTESA section though

The sensor is a big white looking disc thing with two posts standing proud of it... really hard to miss.. as soon as you take the boss off there it is. But +1 for binning HICAS. You don't have as much of a weight saving in the R33's but I hate HICAS and removing it gave me more confidence in the abilities of the car as opposed to not being entirely sure what the back end was going to do.. Fortunately, my Stagea came from the factory without it

There is a steering angle sensor behind the boss, HICAS uses steering angle and speed input to decide what it's doing. Even one tooth out will freak the system out.. I'm talking teeth of the splined shaft that the boss goes on to, not the 6 bolts that hold the steering wheel to the boss.

Yeah why not, make sure it's got a dragon in it

Have you taken your steering wheel off lately? if it's not quite on straight, after a few minutes of driving HICAS will think you're driving in a really big circle and throw up an error.. Does your speedo still work?

Very interesting, but no-one knows what they are.. if they are air monitoring devices, why are they pointing at traffic?

That's what I'm trying to find a work around to. Has anyone got a hydraulic circuit diagram for the ATTESA system? mechanically I would imagine they're all pretty similar, the logic in the control unit being the differing factor. Cheers for the reply!

Is that so?

I've been running one from NYTSKY I think it was, in my 32 for a few years now. Even passed the pits over here with it! One of the best things I did to the 32 was bin the HICAS.

It's not just removed for doing skidz, although that does help.. so much easier to change direction without it, whereas before it just wanted to crab up the road. Car is a lot more stable and predictable with out it (for me at least), but if you're a novice driver you might want to leave it in as it was put there to help inexperienced drivers avoid slamming sideways into trees/poles

I have a theory in regards to the 2WD mode on 33gtr/34gtr/stageas.. not getting any luck in the other thread so I'll post my theory here..

Was built by Final Drive over here in WA, I think they are Hardy-Spicer unis.

It was K band, if it was a cop then it was a huge coincidence that it went off next to two of the suspicious units.. I would imagine they will have to do a lot of testing to iron out the bugs before anything became operational. OR They are something completely different.. I had a mate try to tell me they were air monitoring devices

Nothing set it off today in either direction.

$300 is cheap... My custom 2-piece with new yoke, new centre bearing, heavy duty servicable uni's and 3" tubing cost me $700! I did tell him I wanted something that would handle 800Nm though and I have been assured this will!

All 6cyl non-turbos??? This must all be about R.I.C.E. then hey? If the Skyline and Supra were turbo models I might be interested, but I've already got two modified turbo Nissans.. a Rice'd up non-turbo R34 is just that.. a Rice'd up non-turbo R34.

Old thread but the most appropriate place I could find.. I found mention of a connector under the dash that you disconnect to relieve pressure in the line so you can bleed the system effectively.. In regards to using a TSC on 33/34 gtr/gts4 and Stageas, with a 2WD switch.. could you run another switch on the above mentioned circuit to bleed the preload pressure on the transfer case? After previous investigations, I believe that the preload is not in the transfer case itself but is the system maintaining a minimum pressure (enough to give the 5% split to the front). If this IS the case, then disabling the ATTESA system AND bleeding the pressure in the line to the transfer case, should give you 100% rear drive?? Is my thinking on the money? or am I way off the mark? Probably way off the mark because if it was possble, someone would have come up with it already