bubba

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Catco or Metalcat or some shit, I run my special "hiflow" cats..

Blocked/collapsed cat? when the cat collapsed in my wagon it was causing horrendous boost issues. Swapped out the boost controller, the solenoid, the wiring, put my RB20 actuator on, still couldn't get over 5-7psi.. dropped the exhaust to take it for a spin and found the cat had collapsed.

Thanks for that

It's an airflow cut anyway, 8psi on one stock 33 turbo isn't going to be quite the same as another stock 33 turbo, especially when you bring china fmic/piping and other individuals setups into the equation. Boost is just a measure of restriction afterall.

That's your problem right there

No as the 25 box is longer than the 20 box. The rear section will be the same but the front section will be shorter to suit the longer gearbox.

Can't see pics at work and I don't know what they're like now, but mine have the SP@@L logo on them, got them late last year.

I don't care enough to keep contact details, if you search you will find threads and I have seen one with my own eyes that came in to the workshop, exhaust wheel was still intact. By all means guys, wind your stock turbos up, I'm not the one that will be crying when they let go

If they can do it to a VL (like 10 years ago), then you can do it to your 31.. as noted above, hope you have a deep wallet and LOTS of time/patience

Tell that to the people that have had their nylon compressor wheels delaminate.

Less boost is fine, more boost would require a retune.

+1 you can even see where the boost drops back down the curve recovers itself I really doubt you'd notice a 1psi drop but it may be enough that it no longer hits the airflow cut, but really.. if you're worried about 1psi affecting your times, what do you think a big dip in your curve is going to do to your times??

Got any specs on the Holset turbos?

series 1 33 turbos can handle 14-15psi aslong as you have a nice free flowing exhaust, any restrictions (blocked cat, stock dump/front etc) will heat it up too much and destroy the exhaust wheel. series 2 33 turbos (with the nylon compressor wheel) are notorious for the compressor wheel delaminating much over 12psi, hence I prefer the steel compressor wheeled s1 turbos.

Steering wheel on straight? Speedo still works?

Don't think 33gtst is 6 bolt.. GTR is 6 bolt and S13 is also 6 bolt but in a 3x2 config. I'm also pretty sure that R33 crown wheel bolts are 12mm where R32 is 10mm. Which is why I ended up going for an S13 centre.

Don't know about the ceffy but when I put the 25 box in the 32, I was able to get around with the front half a 33 tailshaft bolted to the back half of the 32 tailshaft, while my new one was getting built.

Got one on my Stag, does the job and good bang for buck. Just get a bellmouth dump and not a split as they are notorious for having problems. Oh and Xforce cats are sh!t.

Yes they have the right to drive your car. +1 to pods filters being legal, just need to be secured (they told me to secure at 2 points), I cut some strips out of a 1.2THK sheet of ally and drilled/bent to where needed. When I got my 32 licensed with the 3L (had a yellow for a couple of things so had to take it over the pits anyway), I let the inspector go off with another inspector.. I've got no idea how they treated it but it wasn't broken and when he handed me the keys back he thanked me for the drive and said he loved skylines

Nah I think that's the pedal bracket they're talking about..

Not quite but that's for financial reasons, god damn GFC was running perfectly fine when I pulled it apart

I have seen similar design brackets as I am running, using 32gtst calipers (for a 280mm rotors), these had been ground out rather severely on the inside to get the caliper to fit over the rotor.. they were the wrong calipers for those brackets. Meant for 33gtst rotors which have longer legs to suit a 296mm rotor, the 32gtst calipers sat 8mm further in, so trying to run 330mm rotors with a 33gtst caliper on brackets meant for 324mm rotors, it's going to clash.. even more so with 32gtst calipers. If the brackets are designed for the calipers to be used, there shouldn't be any real issues with a 324mm rotor setup.. I wouldn't really be going much larger with stock type calipers (hard to find discs in the correct offset though). Why you'd need anything bigger if you're not running huge slicks is beyond me.. but then you're talking big $$ race car and should be using big $$ brake setups. I will have some new brackets cut soon that should hopefully solve the problem of clashing with the lower ball joint on 4WD hubs so I can fit some bigger brakes to my heavy ass daily wagon EDIT: As far as material choice and design, I am a Structural Designer by trade and am confident in the design and materials, maybe one day they will get signed off. I will say I'm not a fan of aluminium brackets, particularly for road use and in the L shaped design I have gone with it would be a really bad idea. The more traditional "dogbone" shaped brackets only really work with larger offsets so you retain adequate edge distance around the holes and even then I wouldn't be going too large.

Maybe I shouldn't have wiped it on the rug

Nah that's just part of the package.. Nitrous on the other hand.. I don't like plastic boobs