bubba

"Changed engines hey?" "Yeah snapped the old one" *notes down RB30xxxxxx* "Can I take it for a drive?" "Sure, go for it" *smoke a couple of smokes while waiting* "How'd it go?" "Yeah good, thanks for that, I love skylines!" *Drive home with licensed RB30DET*

I really think it is down to the poor tolerance between the drive and the gears, then when you start applying on/off torque such as bouncing the limiter or heaps of pedalling, they break. Good tolerance, good balancing and a decent harmonic balancer. (And some gears that aren't made of a sintered material).

First off.. it's an airflow meter overvoltage cut.. Secondly, not sure the RB20's have it.. if I could max out the airflow meter without hitting it then I doubt they do. Thirdly, do they have knock maps? Because all the oil be breathed could be making it knock..

+1 Hyperdrive have done well by me too

I did Dude.. come drive in Perth some time

lol I was driving a hired 12seater Hiace Commuter.. packed to the gills with 7 other paintball players and all their gear, fun times Nah it wasn't that bad, I may have raged a lot but it was actually quite fun!

Everytime our team went to Sydney for a tournament, the boys would make me drive just so they could watch me rage

Did you drive while over there?

Booked in to have a shift kit fitted tomorrow morning Feels wierd.. the last time I left my car at a workshop was when I first got the 32 tuned with the 3L a few years ago

Chuckie was being sarcastic.. retapping the callipers is what he did, as opposed to these dodgy people sleeving the 12mm bolts.

Hmm ok, I really doubt there's still going to be any preload.. the workshop manual clearly states there are two DIFFERENT methods of getting 2WD.. one being the above procedure, the other is dropping the propshaft. The are plenty of warnings in the manual about how to tow and what not to do.. but absolutely no warnings in regards to the 2WD mode.. I will confirm, and if I get really adventurous I'll plumb a pressure gauge into the line and see what it says. But next mission is get shift kit fitted tomorrow and then when my shims arrive from Nissan over east, I'll shim my old GTSt diff and chuck it in the wagoon!

+11ty Especially about the merging, I rage so hard every morning and afternoon trying to get into the tunnel

Depends what they're off... Basically, R32/R33/s1 Stagea are 12mm bolts.. R34 and s2 Stagea are 14mm bolts.. Mounting dimensions are the same for all hubs, the difference being in the length of the legs on the caliper, this changes to suit different sized rotors. I think Brembos off GTR's run an adapter bracket but I could be wrong. Anyway, this talk is really suited to either the Stagea area or the Suspension/Braking area

I definitely didn't notice that when I removed my HICAS.. I found turn in better and more predictable, could just be because I had more confidence that the back end wasn't going to start doing its' own thing mid corner.

+1 for Midland.

Well the AAC controls idle by bypassing the throttle body, so the pipe that goes from cooler to throttlebody needs a small pipe welded to it just BEFORE the throttlebody, then connect this with a hose to the AAC. If you don't have the AAC pointing to the front it will be a bitch to plumb it up

No it's very possible, my mechanic has a 25/30 in his GTS4, plenty of people here have 26/30's in their GTR's. I love my 25/30 and am a big advocate of them but it depends how deep your pockets are.

Need to redrill/tap the nuts for 14mm bolts though, please don't do what all the other geese are doing and sleeve the 12mm bolts 34GTT brakes will bolt straight up as they are already to suit 14mm bolts, you get a 310mm rotor then instead of 296mm with the GTR setup.

Umm, probably been 2 years or so since I put the 25 box in. The guys at Final Drive are good to deal with, know what they're talking about and not arrogant c0ckheads like VEEM

Still got these parts for sale, help fund my modification addiction! Exedy 4-puck brass button clutch, with pressure plate and flywheel, used, suit RB20/25/26 (early)/30 push type, will handle 400rwhp easy, very nice clutch - $400 ARC airbox, needs filter, suit R32 GTSt - $175 Autogage electric oil pressure gauge, 100psi, with sender, used - $50 Autogage electric boost gauge, with MAP sensor, used - $50 Items located in Perth but willing to post.

Nah it's a bulbous beige looking thing on a stainless shaft, high up on the right hand wall.

Look up high on the right hand side.

I don't think you'd need roofies to get her into bed

Cheers

Lots of really long extensions... like a few feet worth.. that's how I get to the top bellhousing bolts on mine. Nope, not as bad as you'd think. Small turbo and stock runners, so we'll see what it's like with the bigger turbo and a forward facing plenum once it's back together. I imagine if I was to run really big cams then it would probably be quite noticable but I'm only running stockers.