bubba

http://www.lewisengines.com.au/category25_1.htm

Huh?

I thought the N1 pump was designed for +7000rpm sustained.

Nothing has been won yet guys, all that release states is that the MTA is pissed off and on the case. Fortunately, they (as a body) are in a much better position to fight this than your average Joe. DRIFTT, I don't think anybody should be proactively doing anything in regards to purchasing new cats until there is an accreditation system as mentioned by the MTA.. wouldn't want to go spend $_$ on a supposedly compliant cat to then have it fail the test or not be on the list.

Would there be a way to plumb in say an auxillary EWP in to our RB engines? purely to help cooling down after runs/laps.

My money is on the stock cat has collapsed. When my stock cat collapsed (years ago), it blocked up and the turbo would glow WHITE hot after a thrash. Even after all that super heating, turbo still went strong. Sold it on and AFAIK it's still going strong.

Hate to break it to ya mate but you're probably going to have to drive +2hrs to find someone able to do a decent job.

Definitely be interested aslong as the cost isn't exorbitant. As for the splined idea, if you could supply a crank collar to suit then that could also be a goer.

The problem is, you haven't paid GST on them. The import duties only came to about $60, it was the $300+ in GST that really pissed me off. Residential to residential you might get through. Like I said, I've run the gauntlet before so I guess I should be happy this was the first time to get stung.

I think we were quoted $930ish from hioctane or someone like that. Shipping from the states and the average dollar then import duties/GST.. almost worked out the same And yeah, was going to suggest Ross.. AFAIK, ATI only do 26 balancers.

Weren't you having similar problems with the old turbo and the old manifold? or was that someone else..

Bastards!!

Yeah I know about the import duties but we've managed to sneak through many times before without getting stung.. or do we have an agreement with Japan? 2.5k order from Japan (2-way + other bits) - not stung. 3.5k turbos from Japan - not stung. HKS 2.8 kit from Japan - not stung. 2k order from US - stung Anyway, back on topic.. should hopefully have my engine apart this weekend or early next week, will inspect N1 pump and report back accordingly.

Hah! dreaming I got mine from summitracing.. actually got 3x of them and some autometer gauges then had to pay customs $440 to get my box of bits! So in the end I don't think I actually saved any money over buying them locally

A different view from people who, on the whole, know RB engines and not SRs.. If you want serious answers then at least post in the Forced Induction area.

I will have my engine apart very soon as new rods are going in and it's going to the machinist to be balanced. I have a collar to go in but when it's all apart I shall mic up the oil pump drive and the collar aswell as the stock drive on the crank and report back. I'll also take some photos of the oil pump, it's one of the older N1 pumps. Would be nice if a few people could mic up any oil pumps they have lying around so we can see what sort of tolerances the factory is machining to.

Phew.. got my 1000hp ATI balancer sitting here and was hoping I didn't have to turf it Any thoughts on machining a collar to suit the exact oil pump you're going to use? what sort of clearance would one use?

As opposed to stock or aftermarket?

Huzzah!

Is anybody going to address this question? Someone else raised the same thing when asking whether it was only on the thrust side and could it be a clearance issue..

Clean everything and see how you go O_o

Does it miss under load at all?

How bad is it missing? to the point where it's almost stalling? or is it just a regular miss every couple of seconds?

Scrap sheet of 1.2mm ally, jigsaw and a white pen/texta. I made two brackets that bolted the pod filter to two of the captive nuts where the stock airbox used to bolt. I have an ARC airbox sitting at home that if it doesn't sell I might try make it work with the new turbo setup.

A thought occured to me when looking at my crank collar.. what is the clearance between the collar and the oil pump drive? would it be better to have something machined to suit the specific oil pump you are going to use so as to get the best fit?