SilverECR33

Looking for Carbon Fibre bonnet and boot lid for my R33 S1 GTST. Cheap but not crap Used but not broken. Call or sms Dale on 0432279166 or email [email protected]

You can see this turbos pix and information and price on SAU traders just jap website HERE

ops my bad. well its sold anyhow ... SOLD!

Lol @ u guys whoring my thread. I was overseas at the time of all this. This motor sold shortly after the post was made, my appologies I did not clarify it sooner. This block was a pair of blocks i purchased and i picked the best of the 2, and sold the other. so without further adue - SOLD! ps. I have another RB30 s2 version fully machined and forged gear and ready for assembley. selling for 3k. thread is around here somewhere.. id no one stops me from making more bad financial decisions.. ill continue to build it.

I am selling my HKS GT-RS Kit that is currently installed on the car. Asking price: $1,750 ono. This turbo kit is worth $2,700+ Postage + Taxes from japan so your lookin at a bargain. It will come with all paperwork, warranty papers. and documents, original receipts and all fittings that come with the kit including original packaging. The turbo kit is currently still installed on the car, so the buyer can fully inspect it in working condition. The car is making 255rwkw(350hp atw) on only 14psi with this setup. The turbo has only seen about 10-15k kms and is still in near new condition. there is no shaft play or anything like that wat-so-ever. Any buyer or professional turbo mechanic is welcome to inspect. The car has never been thrashed with the new setup, and management has been taken care of by a closed loop Apexi LM AVC-R + PFC. it was driven rarely and there has been no problems what-so-ever. Reason for selling: I am selling the turbo because I plan to buy a HKS T04Z Contact: Dale on 0432279166 or 0419745910

as part of your rules u state u need to edit ur old thread insted of re-creating it. Well thats fine. however I am unable to edit my post. so I am unable to Ahere to the rules. What Shall I do?

I AM UNABLE TO EDIT MY POST. PLEASE BE ADVISED THERE IS A CHANGE IN THE SALE ARRANGEMENTS> I am taking onboard the cost of RWC and windscreen replacement for $300. and adding 130 to the price. New sale price.. $780 fully on road, no more to pay. rego till March 2012.

tyx

Price $650.00 Address Kingston QLD, Australia Make Suzuki Model Swift Body Type Hatchback 3dr Year 1984 Kilometers 225000 Transmission Manual 5spd Drivetrain Front-wheel drive (FWD) Air Conditioning No Weight: 680kgs!!!!!! Cost to Fill? $27 bucks! REGO TILL March 2012!!!! I am Willing to sell it for $650 With rego if buyer is willing to organize and pay for Roadworthy, and repair the large crack in windscreen that needs repair for roadworthy. Otherwise, I WIll let it go for $400 bucks, WITHOUT rego! as is. Besides the Bad paint, Worn out Interior and terrible sounding 3 cyl engine, This car is Very Economical, $27 Bucks to fill it up!, which last me about 4 days, driving 450kms. It is light and good on fuel, mechanically its pretty tip top. no oil leaks, and runs well, i been driving it for some time to and from work now, and it seems nothing will stop it. Will be sad to see it go. Please call, or sms. as do not use email often. cheers.

pm sent

got another RB30 , 100 bucks. - Come get it! was left over from another project. block + Crank + rods + pistons + pump + Sump

Possibly sellin my RB30 SII thats just being finished atm. For Sale: RB30 S2 Full Rolling Assembly complete with; Fully cleaned / and decked and faced block crack tested. Block bored and honed 20 thou. full crack tested, balanced and linished crank and con rods oil pump crank collar, brand new welsh plugs. crank re-plugged and finished, and balanced. ACL Race series pistons, fully balanced and mated with newly bored block tolerances ACL Race series Bearings ARP Stud Rod Stud kit this is an awesome block, searched about 18 months to find one in this condition. Reason for selling: costing more than I was originally told, and or anticipated. Price: 3k solid. getting a free engine, just paying the outstanding bill, i will stand to loose a considerable amount. Price is not negotiable, No time wasters please. phone : 0432279166 : dale

Talk about digging up old threads. Sorry for the late reply.. Welcome back to June i guess. Now about the ticking noise.. Really depends on the noise itself, its definently hard to say our noises are the same.. but for me it is related to the injectors. But why infact is interesting, some people have gotten it from different reasons, but mainly to do with exhaust changes, bumps, or air leaks. I have brand new Nismo Triple 5's, and mine made no noise till my exhuast scraped a speed hump, coinsidence? perhaps.. however nothing is actually a miss- or broken, so it not broken? dont fix it.. lol cheers.

Im also in the same boat. There has been many threads, with many different fixes. All of which I have tried one way or another. All exept for swapping out the ECU. because I have had no one that will let me use their working one, to test with. other than that, I have visited many fixes such as. 2 plugs on fuse box (they were dirty as hell, cleaned up like new with cr26 but still not work) Pwr Steer pressure sensor near oil cooler, clean . steering position sensor, testd and cleaned all ok there. all sensors on both the front, and rear racks. found resisters leaking on board of hicas ecu, had them repaired/replaced and tested the board, still not fixed. Removed and serviced power steering pump. replaced lines. hose clamps omg. u name it. still not resolved...

I've had the same issue for a long time now, and never been able to resolve it. If you resolve it. Plz let me know ;')

34R pump still in box waiting to go, will take offers,

Keen as mustard to hear how it went after tuesday!

Yep Spot on Marc.

Damn that is cheap

Oh i forgot to mention. It seems to be doing it Randomly. It did it once last week (after which i took it easy then didnt see the problem again) , Untill this week!. its doing it each night. But each night im driving late and the air is quite cold. It drives perfectly not under load. but once underload then I have issues. When I drove it to work today it went perfectly, snakin 1-2-3rd no probs. and it was smooth all the way thru. I have monitored AFM voltages, AFM air flow rates, boost and pressures, incase of leaks etc. everything seems fine. no changes have been made to the car since it was tuned over a year go making 350 atw. its got me stumped. I figure maybe one of the plugs has became dodgy so im currently replacing them with older ones i had from last service that were still 80% good. I have checked all the splitfire coilpacks and all still look brand new, no hairline cracks or anything. No scorching marks found at all. The coilpacks are also cooled in my engine bay due to my custom valley cover I made. So they are not heat soaked. Last winter, the car had no trouble in winter on full boost.

well i got this problem now. only happens under load between 4.5-5.5. its perfect before it and after . .although it does feel like its lost some h orses before and after. I have relatively New , Splitfires, pfc. tune, iridiums. o2 sensor, etc. so its baffled me. perhaps crank angle sensor? is th ere a way to find out how to test that theory without a new one? I wont hold my breathe.

way to gay up a rb26.

would you take less not including those indicators?

Gotta love QLD cops.