Busky2k

Aussie Discount Mufflers have a dyno? Damn who woulda thought...

So a guy is sellin his S15 and uses my dyno chart as proof of the power... http://forum.silviansw.com/viewtopic.php?t=26296 Damn funny read.... Becareful guys!! Who woulda thought this shit would happen!

Probably only worth throwing on the slotted once the stock discs wear out..

I have a kit imported from the US. Works well however you need to tune around it. If you do not have access to a wideband then you are tuning blindly. Btw water's effect on AFR is negliable and that is a fact.

All S14s have variable cam timing as well as the points i mentioned earlier. How do I know? Because I own both.

..although 230rwkw shouldn't be scary.

As another alternative, I am using the Hankook RS2 which is also a semi tyre. The price is alright and the dry grip is excellent but still slightly behind the RT615. When cruising other forums, its hard to find anything negative about the RS2s, especially on EvoM, NASIOC etc.

I would have to disagree with the website stating 255rwkw is the max for a Z32 AFM. Its nowhere near the max at that power.

The T518z is a bit too small for the RB25. I have one on my SR20 and I like it very much.. I'd say the highflow is the better option.

A common misconception is that the blacktop SR20s are all the same. You can basically say that the S13/180SX motors are the same with different cam cover colours. The S14 (and S15 motors) are different to the S13/180SX motors. Among other things, the S14/S15 motors have - -Variable Inlet Camshaft Timing (NVCS) -Larger turbocharger (T28 vs T25G) -Different inlet manifold setup. (Low port vs High Port) S15 motors are slightly different again but is of little overall significance. Cheers

SS8_Gohan, if you are getting the M1 0W40 at $11/L I'd like to know where. TMost of the time the 0W40 is around about $80/jug or about $16/L so its not really much cheaper than the 300V. The cheaper M1 5W50 is around $11/L. Yes I would consider 300V a superior oil because it has a more stout additive package and a superior base oil. This is not to say the M1 0W40 is not a good oil - its probably the best M1 grade out and would have no qualms using it in most cars. If you can source the 300V in the 5W30 viscosity range, I'd pick that over the 10W40 providing your car doesn't use much oil and is not modified off its head. In terms of RP, I would choose RP over M1 if its the racing XPR oil range. Their ordinary street oils are still quite good but haven't shown stellar results in oil analysis. IMO, I'd pick 300V over Redline as well. JonesyGTR, 1) The Castrol 0W40 is their best EDGE product. However considering its the same price as Mobil 1, I'd be picking M1 0W40 as it has superior OEM certifications. Then again my pick would be 300V over both of these, if you wish to spend that lil bit extra. 2) Diff oils, Redline is good stuff. I use their Gear oil 75W90 in the diffs. Doesn't matter if its LSD or not. Make sure is not the "NS" variant though. 3) Redline is definitely superior over VMX80. I'd be picking Redline MT90 for the gearbox, or Castrol Syntrans if that is available. Hope that helps, although this advice is based on my experience only.

The 300V of course. :sorcerer:

As you guys would know I'm not a Skyline, I pulled 266rwkw on the weekend in my S14. 20 psi at 3600rpm.

You guys keep saying its going to be a "911 Turbo eater" yet there is absolutely zero evidence of this... Reserve judgement until it comes out...

LOL this gets more interesting by the minute. So this guy isn't even in Australia!?

This is BS. Whats up with the steering wheel cover!? If it were true I'd go check it out considering I live in SA.

Ah yes the mandatory GTR badge on the back... Absolutely terrible. And whats with the monster tach, isn't the stock one good enough? LOL and its in the worst spot EVAH.

I wont be able to make the dinner but maybe the bowling or cruise after. Could someone PM me the details? Cheers....

36 front. 34 rear. 40+ seems a bit too high to me.

I believe its a helical style. Syntrax would work fine

Tax payers cash or not, that tool deserved to be reamed. I'd put my tax money towards that.

Depends on where you are using the Syntrax Syntrax is better for gearboxes because of its appropriate friction modification, the SAF-XA is better for diffs due to its higher viscosity. On that note the Syntrax is not meant to be used in Clutch LSDs, but this isn't a problem in helical/viscous LSDs.

Shouldn't be a problem chief!

Drop another motor from another BMW car and its not going to give it much extra value either being custom so the point is null.