Ryno

All my fuses were fine... I had a shorted out earth wire in the loom (the one from pin 60)

That's good to hear mate, It's amazing how tolerant the standard computer is to blown fuses, broken wires and missing relays! But it can make plugging in the Power FC a nightmare. I'm just glad it's all up and running now, if I never have to solder a wire in my car again, I'll be a happy man.

Hey mate, It sounds like a few people have been having this problem - here are the places to start looking: 1. Check all fuses - twice! 2. Wire in a direct 12v from the battery to the battery input on the ECU (pin 58) 3. Check earth wires (pins 60 and 50) 4. If it's still not working start checking all the other wires, for a break or something connected where it shouldn't be. Hope that helps

Hey Paul, I am rather fussy with my car, so I researched tuners for a while before I decided to go to Hitman, and I must say he didn't disappoint. He spent about the same time tuning the cars economy, as he did max power. In fact the max power was never much of a drama, as the first run (with the standard Power FC maps) made 183 kw. I'm very happy with the tune, the car is now smoother than it has ever been, has more power, and uses less fuel. Perfect! Ryno

No worries mate my mods are: 1995 RB25DET Standard Turbo R34 GTT Intercooler Adj Exhaust Cam gear (set at 3 1/2 deg ret) CES 3" split dump pipe Magic cat Custom 3" into 2 x 2 1/2" exhaust (very similar to Apexi N1 Dual muffler) GTR Fuel pump Apexi Power Intake Pod filter (with custom cold air partition) NGK Iridium spark plugs

Here are the printouts of the final result.

Hey fellas, good news for me - I've finally solved the problem. Thanks for all your ideas; they gave me a place to start looking during my two weeks off work. So who came up with the right answer to the problem? The winning prize goes to sinistagtst!!! He was correct in that a wire had shorted out... It took a lot of hair pulling, but I found one of the earth wires on the loom had shorted out and needed re-soldiering. With that done, it started up fine. The Power FC must do some form of a circuitry check when you turn it on, and if everything is not right, it doesn't allow the ECCS relay to close. Instead it just clicks on and off like mad, and doesn't allow the car to start. Luckily after fixing the problem this morning, Hitman had a free spot this arvo for a tune... The final result - 198.8 rwkw - not bad for the standard turbo at 11 psi! If any of you are looking for a tune, Hitman is a champion, you won't be disappointed.

I have just installed one of these on my car, and it seems very good. Be carefull how far you screw the adjustment nob in though - as I was gaining about 1 1/2 psi every quarter of a turn.

Another thing to consider (in achieving more power from a larger turbo) is the density of the compressed air going into your engine. Density of course is a combination of Temperature and Pressure. The Pressure (what your boost gauge is showing) shows no indication of what the inlet temperature is. To give you an example: 1. You're using the standard turbo at 16 psi - this is past its efficiency range, and is struggling to compress the air to that pressure. As a result the temp of the inlet air is very high, and therefore less dense (less power). 2. You've got an aftermarket turbo at 16 psi - same boost px as the standard turbo, however it's in it's peak efficiency range and the temp of the air is lower than the standard turbo - therefore more density, and more power (for the same boost pressure).

I have a set of rears from my R32, you can have for $40 + delivery... otherwise pickup in Nowra (2 hrs south of Sydney)

Hey Scott, I may be interested, where are you located? Ryno

Bump... I'm after the series two type, which has two plugs going directly into it

Is the throttle body still available? If so can you send pics to [email protected] Cheers, Ryno

Hey Dan, Going to a RB26 in a GTS4 is very easy, as it bolt's straight up, to your current drivetrain. Also if you get the RB26 from an R32, all the computer wiring will match up as well. For your model car the upgrade to a RB26 is easily the best option. I have put a RB25 into my R32, and the wiring of the new loom is the area that was a nightmare for me, I'm still trying to solve little problems (with the electricians job) 18 months later. Aside from that, the rest of the install was fairly straight forward. In hindsight, if I were to do it again, I would send both looms away (to be spliced together by a specialist) prior to the install. Ryno

Hey guys, as the title says... I'm after a Throttle Position Sensor for a RB25DET Cheers

Hey mate, Do you have the plastic covers (between the A pillar and door trim) that cover the wiring to the Mirror. Mine have holes in them, where tweeters were mounted. Cheers

Thanks mate, I've managed to sort out the VVT, and I've removed the HICAS. But you're advice in the other areas should help no end. I'm planning on buying a RB20 loom so I can trace back everything, and hopefully get it running as close to perfect as possible. Ryno

This seems to have gone a little off topic, but to clear a few things up... 1. I am 90% sure the unit is not faulty, as I have plugged my unit into a mates R33, and it ran fine. 2. It did leave the country, as it was returned to me directly from Japan. It does seem that the wiring is at fault somewhere... I plan to pull the loom out of my car in a couple of weeks, and check for any breaks - while double checking everything is wired to the right places. The auto electrician (that wired in the new engine) had no wiring diagrams to help with splicing in the new loom, and as such did a pretty shocking job, for example: 1. No idle step up with aircon 2. No Cold start 3. No rev up when turning steering wheel 4. No HICAS 5. No VVT 6. No speed limiter (no speed input to ECU) This Power FC problem is just another thing for me to add to the list.

I have already run a wire from the Battery directly to the Power FC, so the Power Supply isn't the problem. It looks like my next step is checking the ECCS wiring (As BHDave says, pin 45), otherwise I'll be checking all my wiring for a broken one! And as sinistagtst pointed out, it will probably take a while. I'm just fortunate I can still run the car fine on the standard computer.

Just plugged my Power FC into a mates car, and it worked fine. Looks like I'm back to trouble shooting my wiring.

I do have a hand controller, sometimes it freezes on the Apexi Logo (while the ignition relay is clicking away), and other times it goes into the menu, but tends to freeze up after about 30 seconds. I haven't seen any garbled characters on the screen.

I sent the Power FC back to Japan, and they've said there's no problem with it... I've had a look inside and can't see any burnt tracks.

That was the same as my first thought. I returned the Power FC (under warranty) and they found no faults with it.

Hey guys, Got a problem with my Power FC. When I turn the key on, the ignition relay clicks on and off repeatedly (at about 5-10 Hz). As such I have no ignition and the car won't start. Any Ideas?? I have a RB25DET engine and the car runs fine on the standard computer. Cheers, Ryno

Sweet, stiffening the rear it is.