rs73

I guess you'll have to consult Stephen Hawkings in regards to the solution for your problem.

Well that figure might be 100% accurate if your car has 1 gear only, and the drag run is conducted in gravity-less & vacuum environment, and auto-piloted by HAL9000

Well you obviously did not read my post properly:

This could be tricky, but can be calculated providing your car can maintain constant acceleration rate from start to finish line. However it's almost impossible due to: - Gearing Ratio (accelerating on 1st, 2nd gear is faster than 3rd, 4th etc) - Aerodynamic Drag (the higher the speed, the greater the drag is) - Other factors (track condition, tractions, wind, etc) - Human factors (Driver skill, etc) But for the heck of it if those factors above (and any other factors) are non-existent: Say you got a 1/4 mile time of 12.5seconds (t) and your terminal speed (v) is 180km/h. So: v = 180km/h = 180,000m/3600sec = 50m/sec Thus: acceleration (a) is v/t = 50/12.5 = 4m/s^2 (4 meters per second to the power of 2) Therefore your car's 0-100km/h time: v1 = 100km/h = 100,000m/3600sec = 27.78m/sec a = v1/t1 --> find t1 required to reach 100 km/h 4 = 27.78/t1 --> t1 = 100/4 = 27.78/4 = 6.945sec :Nerds:

If Brent agree, I'd go with deposit system. At least it shows our intention to pay the full amount as soon as item is available in stock. I know I do want one!

1. new or 2nd hand? 2. has it been tuned?

Damn, u beat me by 3 min.

P1E, nothing is wrong with PFC Boost control kit as what Lucien said, but there are limitations since it can only be controlled using the provided hand controller interface, compared to AVC-R which definitely has more features. Otherwise Apexi wouldn't be able to sell AVC-R as a stand alone products, if all its features can be covered using PFC boost control kit alone. Plus there are other boost control kit which is comparably good with AVC-R, e.g. Greddy Profec-B or HKS EVC (I recommended the EVC as the latest model is very easy to tune and hold boost well). Other reason if one day you decide to sell your PFC (for whatever reason), then your boost control kit must go too, as it'll be hard to find anyone who want to sell just the AVC-R screen without its boost solenoid. So you'd still have to buy a standalone boost controller if you want to retain an aftermarket boost level. But of course in terms of $, the PFC boost control kit will be cheaper than a full standalone product.

Or can try Akita in North Melbourne, 34 Courtney St (Cnr Blackwood St)

Yamagata Teppanyaki Restaurant in Doncaster (Anderson Creek Rd)

That's ok.... by the way has the confirmed buyers went up from 16? I'm referring to the first post as I suppose that's the one to update to maintain the list. 4 days left and hope we can get the group buy happening...

Lucien you've got my details via pm...

OF COURSE it's gts-t friendly.... there's nothing wrong bringing a gts-t on the track...

Pending on my suspension component inspection (after my unfortunate encounter with the gutter) - if car has no issues, then I will DEFINITELY BE IN this time :-) Since I had to miss the previous track day I wouldn't want to miss this one.... :headbang:

Lucien, Put me down for R33 S1 Gts-t (RB25DET) Well, I'm sure for PowerFC there's no difference between S1 & S2, I think it has been mentioned a few times on this forum too.

I'm rather interested for a S1 R33 GTS-t (RB25DET) version. I still got Nengun's detail from my previous fmic order so if is it ok for me to transfer to him directly or should the fund go through you first then go to nengun as a whole payment lot?

Any increase in diameter would help, even if ur cat has certain restriction. But at least if urs is a hi-flow cat then shouldn't be a problem for general street use/occasional track or drag days. The idea is to reduce turbulence behind the wastegate so turbo can spool up easier and thus bringing the pwr curve up quicker...

If you haven't got an aftermarket front pipe, then just go for one piece front/dump pipe. In my case I feel pity to ditch the good front pipe just for the sake of getting the dump pipe, so might have to consider just the split dump pipe section. I can sell the front pipe if I replace it with something like CES, but I just feel a bit pity as I paid for it (didn't came with the car).

Missed the meeting.... Driving down Nepean going back to Melbourne from taking my folks out to the Strawberry Farm.... car hit a gutter, damaging both front and rear tyre steel carcass on the passenger side.... Tyres bubbled up as the air pressure were only held by rubber... Wasn't even speeding at all... Finally found an open tyre place this evening, ended up putting a set of 2nd hand 17x7.5 ANZ rims with 90% Dunlop 3000 tyres on, instead of buying two new tyres for the stock 16" that I've been wanting to replace anyway... Well... damn gutter.

If my folks has gone home I would have come down PI and raced myself :-) It's just this month has been quite crazy, my folks here, NZ trip, mate's birthdays, a friend's new baby - you won't believe how many things I have to attend - even had little time for my own gf... :-P

Dunno where u normally go for track days, but I've seen certain tracks with open entrance to public (no security standing there) and anyone can just walk in and pinch anything from the pits when no one's looking... Some other tracks are good as they have one or two controlled entrance in/out of the pit area.

It made an awful lot of noise on my car when I put one in, it was really loud and horrid. Ended up taking it out and sell it within a week. That was C's. Not sure about Nismo short shifter, has anyone tried it? Perhaps Nismo one might be quieter?

gee Al, hope it's not too serious.... I won't make it either, my folks are still here till the 20th, so I'll have to wait till the next trackday after PI.

IMO turbo timer are overkill for street use. For everyday use, if you slow down and take it gently the last few minutes before arriving at your destination, you won't really need turbo timer that much. Only when you take your car to the track regularly, it will be quite handy when you have to lock the car and walk away between lap sessions.

that's an option, but IMO 18" lightweight usually are pretty expensive and a rubber that wide are expensive too... especially if u had semi slicks and doing burnouts will wear it out quicker and send u broke after a few drag meets :-P