Factory 5

The old lady up the road still wants me to buy her 4 door C211, I wish I had the pennys... (and the mrs t let me get it!)

I have pm'd you my number. See if we can make contact this evening perhaps?

I must say this is an absolute BARGAIN I was looking to buy about 3 weeks ago, would of grabbed this straight away! Good luck with the sale.

WTF do you think this is? Boostcruising? NS.com????

Yep, sobeks car was a ripper Wilkins lists 3x cams on his website, 68, 72, 74 (all FIA) regrinds. I have head of a 76 deg too for race use only

Would you hire out the hand controller at all?? The one I got of R31forum is farkt. all scrambled on the screen, then nothing, then half a screen, then arrrrggggghhh.... Im still running a turbo map on an N/a engine, fuel economy is suffering.

Might tag along.... If i dont get poisoned from the mrs 'seafood linguini' WTF? who's ever had prawns in pasta, let alone CANBERRA prawns....

Perfect for an R31 transplant.....

Ahh good! I was going to go to the swap meet, but the bad weather turned me off. Will pencil in the 14th then, see how that goes. (bring the Hatch, along with a boot load of stuffs) Definitly on for Goulburn too, will be staying at home (canberra) as its not that far away. as for head work and a cam.... go for it. Makes a hell of a difference. I drove a R30 L24e 5 speed the other week that had a Stewart Wilkins cam in it, felt totally different. even sounded different! more like an RB30e. Get a few spare heads and have one as a practice/test dummy, then go for real on the good one. I suggest getting the cam and all that done by a workshop, matching p the cam towers and the shimms is a pain in the arse.

As a tow car, I would thing the R30 would DRINK the fuel. They are bad enough as it is on the juice! There used to be a rule that the car could not tow more than 1.5 x its weight, then recently I think it changed to 1x times (so equal) Its all a bit confusing, Either way I wouldnt want to put more than 1300kg on the R30. AU Falcon wagon on gas might be an option?

I think its long gone. I found a R34 Neo unit for $350 on ebay, but the seller sold it on me.

200b Stanza 180b SSS Z31 300 zx? (4 stud) all could be had from the wreckers for near nothing R31 Silohette highly polished with black insides looks farily smart too.

Still better than any L24e Oz spec... SI or SII

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/85...ld-t341841.html Looks like a great candidate for some TLC and power ups! I would jump on this if I had the cash, would go so much harder than my L24e Hatchback. Just thought to bring the thread to the classic section so this guy gets more coverage so it sells quicker (and to stop me looking at it) At least he has a good price on it, not like all those '$8000 non-complied' dreamers out there....

AWN isnt worth shit. Found tht out the hard way with a $3500 U12 Pintara Ti, $2500 engine and another $1000 in repairswithin 12 months of owning. None was covered.

saw the gtr there (museum) i did a drive by with the little blue holden

Hey all, Just thought to share a brief run-down on what I did with my auto. Sure there are some other better things to do, but this got me out of trouble, and perhaps another newbie out there needs the same help. I got a 4N71b transmission filter kit from Repco, will get part number later. I also go 2x 4 litre containers of Dextron III (the Penrite one was on special for $32 each at Autobarns on the weekend) Car was warmed up, jacked it up and put on axle stands. (Needed to be higher though. MUCH higher. i got some little g-clamps and clamed the sump to the trans. Undid all the 10mm bolts around the trans sump. put my BIG catch tray underneath to take at least 7 litres then off came the clamps, and woosh.... stinky brown trans fluid everywhere. (including my left eye... ) I should of let it run out slowly. anyway while that was dripping away, I did an oil change. Then there are a seriee of 8mm bolts around the filter tray, undid them, then 3 10mm bolts, and 1x 10mm nut. (which was pretty tight) let all that drip away. Then to clean out the trans fluid cooler and lines, I figured out which direction it all went ages ago, disconnect the lines and flush though with air (i just had a bike pump) same with the lines to the trans, all the goopy crap is all gorn. Install the new filter tray, dont do the bolts up mega tight, (as oulined in the service manual) The 10mm ones are a bit tighter, then the 10mm nut, tight. Degreased the sump pan, came up nicely, On goes the new cork gasket and then the sump. Then the 10mm bolts all round. i did them reasonably tight, left for an hour (to finishe the oil change) and re-tighten, the cork compresses a little bit over time. Then loaded up my hose and funnel, and refilled 5 litres first up, started the engine and cycled through all the gears nice and smoothly. Then let it sit and check levels. The manual says 7 litres, and apparently 2 litres of that will stay in the torque convertor. It miixes up with the new fluid and what not, no huge deal. took it out for a spin (at 2am thismorning, so no traffic! niiiice) The difference was AMAZING. no more huge flare ups between changes, more solid changes, overdrive is more decisive (still need to replace the o-ring around the solenoid) All up it cost about $90, so worth it.

My bushes are shot too (moustash bar) Can you let me know where to get em? every time I touch the accelerator it goes Boom, and the same on de-celeration. so bloody annoying when cruising at 100km/h, bom bom bom as im feathering the speed.... arrtghhh if you are in the business, maybe get some solid ones made from metal? a few race setups use them. would transmit a fair bit of vibration throught the body though.

Dapto pick'a'part has 5 R30's apparently.

TN maggna. fooking useless lump

I got dibs on the N42 manifold....

holy crap, i never seen one of those still on the road!

the DR30 cluster will need the capacitor/resistor changed as its reading the pulses for a 4 cyl not a 6 cyl its the main reason why I never bought one. you can use the R32 5 speed on the L series, get SWR to bolt it together

And 25% mix of LPG.....

The 30 Brakes are ok for 1 or 2 stops in an agressive environment, then after that its mush or unpredictability, and many lockups and flatspot tyres... Thicker rotors would make a difference, as it has a greater mass to absorb the thermal energy. Just like a small radiator versus a bigger one.