Strik3r

the thing sounds nuts ?? more like NOEL sounds nuts video video video.. oh and dyno graph ! any ballpark guestimates on power noel ?

we want video's of the tuning !

when is the tune happening noel ?

f**k.. that makes me wet

the first set of issues sounds just like AFM... could be dirty or need resoldering. if you have someone with the same one, borrow to test, else search the forum for +solder +AFM. i just did mine its not hard. bubbles in the radiator liquid could just be some air escaping the system.. did you replace your coolant recently ? does the car lose water ?

maybe thats the compliance date, not the build date ? the plate thats written in japanese should have a readable date on it iirc.. maybe post a pic of the compliance plate and the other engine plates for us to check over ?

save a bit more money, buy r33 GTR. best of both worlds.

hahahahahahahha. only the old dingo would think of that

spotted 70YRB about 30 minutes ago on the Gold Coast Highway. Car sounds pretty tough.. don't cops give you heaps about that BOV tho ?

Like people said, ATMO BOV prob at fault. Could also be AAC valve or air flow metre playing up.

p.s., your quater mile time is probably dependant on your tyres and suspension. If your running stocko suspension and tyres with those mods, i wouldnt expect much better than a mid 14 anyway.

your ECU has probably dropped back onto the lower octane maps, which is cauing you to lose power. depending on how realistic the dyno is, you probably shoudlnt expect much more than 200 or so hp with those mods anyway... i'd say once you get some 98ron fuel and reset the ECU, you might get 200 - 220 hp. For benchmarking purposes, I got ~230rwhp with 3" turbo back xorst, high flow cat, FMIC, 12psi, pod filter, cold air intake and SAFC2 tuned by matt spry @ PITS.

i dont think you have to 'change' the setting. You just start tuning and tell the injectors what percentage to open for various load points. Assuming its a new one that you ordered for an rb20 / rb25, it should have a fairly rich base tune on it. Your tuner should be able to sort all of this out for you. If you have to get it from the workshop to the tuner, then it becomes a bit trickier ^_^.

good ECU choice. sell your Z32 AFM off for $200 and get a good tune on the microtech. I see your on the gold coast, give Matt Spry @ PITS a call. best on the coast. get at least 555cc injectors. dont put more than 260 or 270rwkw through a stock rb25 or you risk kaboom. a nice responsive 250rwkw will be a tonne of power for the street.

meh. the turbo is built to handle 18psi all day every day. some users on the forum run 20-21 on the oversize variant no probs. your just missing out on power. your choice though

upgrade injectors to Nismo 555cc's and push 18psi through that turbo and you'll hit close to 250rwkw. have fun

What ECU and injectors are you running ?

yay problem seems fixed ! car drove home rather nicely. Was in pretty heavy traffic most of the way, but did manage to give it a boot once or twice and it picked up just like it used to. will update if anything changes, but looks like this ones solved ! thanks for the help GTST and others !

hehe, everything is back in the car, but im at work at the moment (one of my work mates helped me with the soldering. Moved the car around the parking lot, and the AFM is still working at least (get a reading on my SAFC2) but wont know if the problem has been fixed until i take her home in an hours time. will post again then fingers crossed.

resoldered the 3 joins (series 2 afm). Put her all back together, waiting on silicon to dry to seal the lid. Am going to spray some more cleaner through it, then put humpty back together again and hope it all works.

went ahead and popped it off. its just a covering plate of the circuit board. Resoldering now. Fingers crossed lads !

errm, im mid resoldering job at the moment. Problem: I cut the lid off, and there is this (i think) copper plate covering the whole area.. the plug (and joins) to what i think is the circuit board are a few cm below this plate. Do i just pop this off as well ? it seems to be sealed into the plastic walls of the AFM...

if you rebuild the motor, your going to have a nice new forged engine that will last you donkeys years. Buy a 2nd hand motor and its going to be a gamble as to how long it will last. specially if you want to go on thrashing it. rebuild ftw !

if your car is running stock boost, it will probably run for ever. Its only when you start upping the boost and other things that shorten the engine life. Engine rebuilds are not cheap, especially if you want to get a good job done. And then you'll start saying 'well, as long as the engine is out, might as well do the turbos and the rest' ... viola, $12k

ok cheers for that. I can prob get a 2nd hand AFM for $50.. so its just a question of whether its worth buying these parts and cutting mine open or just swapping in another one. can always keep this one as a spare (seems like a useful thing to have around )