Evocoop

What do you use for running in oil? Minerail based? And what's your take on the procedure for running in? Everyone seems to have their own method. I know some people who do the running in on the dyno and others that insist on the old 1000km rule of thumb. Just wondering what else people do.

Thanks Mate. I was pretty happy with the cage when we finished it. In hinsight would have really liked to have replaced that factory bar that runs under the dash and through near the steering column with a CDS one and make it part of the cage. Would have been able to get the front down bars closer to the pillers if we had have thought about it earlier. I defo like it better now it has colour on it. Kinda blends in a bit better. They are old JUN ones I'm pretty sure. They don't look the flashest but they are accurate and I run the timing cover anyway so they'll go again.

Got the interior and cage painted on the weekend. I wanted to do the engine bay to but the compressor blew up. It's not the greatest job Meh. Race pig, it'll do. Better than primer.

Yeah will be the 33 purple. I've already done the door and boot jams as the last pic shows.

Ta Marty. Hopefully have the interior and engine bay painted by monday. The body will get done whenever. Will post pics if i manage to get it done. Welded in the new seat belt mounts for the 5th and 6th points of the harness today. Chucked a seat in and mocked up the harness to check the mounting positions. Here's a pic of the new harnesses. If any body wants the BRIDE seat and adjustable rail, it belongs to a mate and he's chacin 5 hungy for it.

Too easy mate thanks. That's what i was thinking but wanted a comfirmation.

Hey if anyone can identify these boxes in a R32 GTR can you please enlighten me as to what they are and what they control. They are under the parcel shelf an in inside the drivers side quater panel. I assume the one on the left is the Atessa box but i wanna chuck the stuff that's no longer required like the Hicas. also Just want to make sure that if I remove the Hicas controller that it will not effect anything else. Thanks And in other news. I had my first go at doing some sheet metal work to cover the holes in the dash that i had to cut to fit it back in around the bars. I tryed to bash out a piece of plate to weld to the car that was the same profile as the shape of the dash. It looks better now that I've primed it though. Also remounted all the glove box and dash brackets that had to be removed to fit the cage. The interior is now pretty much ready to get some paint. just need to weld the plates for the 5th and 6th point of the harnesses to the floor. I bought 2 Sabelt 6 pnt harnesses that arrived xmas eve that i need to go buy some nuts for to weld to the floor plates for the eye bolts.

I know this is an old thread but was wondering if anyone has any new experiences in the last 12 months or so. I'm not a fan of bulk guages either and befor i put the engine back in the car I wanna get something in place now so the senders will be easier to fit while the engine's on the engine stand. I'm running a D-jetro Power FC and want the usual info like water, exhust, oil temp, Oil, fuel presures and possibly boost. The defi definatly looks the goods as i like that it retains the indercators and stuff cause the car is still registered. But the price with the exchange rate right now would maybe put it beyond what I can justifie.

Did a bit of work on sunday. I modified.........Ok hacked up the door trims to allow the doors to be closed without fouling on the doort trim. I just discarded the bottom half and replaced it with some ali plate.

I have an AC compressor. Comes with the rest of the AC system and heater and condensor. the lot for 450 if your paying the freight. Pm If keen.

Cool Cool, Sorry about the mad wrapping. I just wanted to make sure nothin fell out or got lost. And I get the tape for free. Under the plenum is where i was planning on putting it to. The Radiator was a custom built one that I had made off some plans from a friend's R32 to fit where the AC condensor used to fit and incorperates a water to oil engine oil cooler in the end tank. It was about 1450 plus the fan. Very happy with it though. PWR do an outstanding job. Thanks mate. If SDEWY5 is your number plates, That's cool. Good thinking.

Thanks for the intrest in the Accusump. It's on it's way to a new owner.

Apparently It uses a V8 supercar core so there's probably more cooling power in the bit in front of the fan as there is in the whole of the original radiator.

I Pretty much finished the mock up of where everything is gonna fit in the front half of the engine bay. Got the ali plate cut out for the radiator support panel and it's all rubber mounter with modified and flush mounted originals in the bottom and S15 rubbers on the top. Finished all the mounts for the dry sump header tank. They just need to be tidyed up a bit and gusseted. New mounts for the intercooler off the bumper reo are a little agricultural but that's the only place for them. Heres some pics.

255/40/17

The accusump kit i have is a 3 quart accumulator, mounting clamps, electric solonoid, 20-25 psi pressure switch and a half inch check valve to go into the oil cooler line. They do make a universal install kit but you can make that yourself easy with a few speedflow fittings and some -10 braded line. I paid over 700 bucks for what I have here back befor the exchange rate went to shitt so was chacin 650. I have no pics just yet cause they're on my broken phone's memory card. Yeah I'm really happy with it. Turns out it's already been modfied so the dry sump header tank can go behind the headlight. It's got a sharper bend on the outlet side to kick the pipe work back in tighter. Didn't expect that when i was offered it but I guess was just ment to be. Thanks for the other kind comments. They keep me motivated. I just finished welding in the header tank mounts and cutting the holes for the pipe work. These are my Work Emotions I'm using as track wheels. They've got some old RE55s rubber on but I've only used them once. My first time out with them I spilt the motor. They're only 17x9s but they were well priced when i picked them up. I actually lent them to my mates more than I've used them.

That's how we did mine but another way, if for some reason ya can't hole saw a hole through like if the sill is in the way or something there is another way that I've seen which works. Cut the main hoop shorter, weld around the top and then build boxes and sit the main hoop on top of them. Dosen't look as neat though.

Yeah mate like Count Grantleyish said. It's a stocker with a pretty rough polish job. I've bought a set of brand new 1000cc HKS injectors to fit in that rail but.

Thanks. that looks like you've taken a fiar bit outta there. I wasn't too sure how far to go but if need be i can take some more out later. I wish i took a better pic of the ports now. As a guide i took the lump out from near the stud and left it about 2.5 mm smaller than a Tomei steel exhaust gasket. Then matched the manifold to the gasket. A shop up here told me that this step was needed to create a small vortex to help scavenge the exhaust gas. The shop specialises in NA pro stock drag motors so I'm not certain they are that cluded up on jap gear. Time will tell but. I have followed the progress on your 32 for a while since i found out you were running the GTRS turbos. Very impressive. Thanks Michael. It is a plan to get down to QR for the time attack thing. I was a spectator a few months back the week after Jamboree. So defo Keen for that. Was talking to Cameron Dyal with the orange EVO 8 and he got me all keen. The rod. Haha yeah i'll do something with it as a momento. The dry sump Kit is just a basic Hi Octane kit consisting of a Barns pump, peterson tank and I think they get performance metalcraft to do the sump mods but not sure. I had the hi octane big sump and a tomei pump and an accusump to go on it but I changed my mind and sold the pump and sump and still need to sell the accusump if anyone's interested. Still in the box and never used.

Hi folks. Just been reading through a couple of you guy's build up threads and learning some valuable information and thought you might be interested in my build. I have been slowly trying to build basicly stock R32 GT-R into a bit of a circuit/hillclimb car over the last 12 months since I destroyed the motor from an oil surge at our local hill climb here in Townsville. When it's done I'm really keen to head south for Superlap as it looks fantastic and our pissy little track dosen't really offer the sort of excitement I'm after. I bought it with a set of 2560 garretts, Power FC, injectors, Greddy pipe kit, Twin plate Direct Clutch, HKS manifolds and dumps and a big exhaust. Good enough for a 11.6 at 117mph on streeters. But after I found the #6 rod had pounded its way into the bellhousing and the piston up side down in the bore I thought it was time to build something a little more worth while. So heres some picks and a few details about what I've been up to over the last 14 months or so. This is how it looked after owning it a few months. Nothing special but tidy. Then I broke it....... So I started building. Bought a new N1 block, new crank(grub screwed and balanced), Eagle rods, Cp pistons, ACL bearings and Arp studs. Then I got a head and filled it with Tomei Pro cams, buckets, guides, type b valve springs and new Nissan Valves and stem seals. I put a tomei 1.2mm head gasket in aswell as got some port work carried out. Had the exhaust opened up a bit and the inlets cleaned up. Then I bought some new turbos cause some of the old motor had gone through the 2560s and damaged the wheels. I settled on HKS GTRS turbines and also picked up some Trust dump pipes that I though looked the goods. Still using the HKs manifolds off the old motor but port matched them. After some major deliberation and saving some more dollars I decided that all the band aid fixes for the Rb26 oiling system were not gonna put my mind at rest with a now quite expensive long motor so I bit the bullet and bought a dry sump kit. Now it's all just sitting in the corner till the car is ready to recive it's new motor. I bought a second hand ARC twin entry intercooler from an R34 and mounted that up, but as it turned out I had to make all new mounts for it anyway cause when i bought the new PWR radiator to fit in where the AC condensor used to be I had to change every thing anyway. Still haven't made the radiator support panel yet but it's on the to do list. I have the template cut out and the ally sheet. Just gotta find the time. I put a roll cage in to. It's Made from CDS mild and is basicly a 6 point tagged to the pillers, side intrusion bars, roof bar, windscreen bar, harness bar, cross and diagonals and one under the dash. Back seats are gone and replaced with a 1.6mm folded parcel shelf and rear fire wall and sealled up as per Cams spec for the fuel system in the boot which at this point consists of a SX 1000hp pump and 4.2ltr surge tank. The fuel system in the pic is just mocked up and still needs work fo fit properly. I have changed to a FC D-jetro for management and mounted all the map sensors on the plenum. But yeah. So thats about where it's all up to. There area heap of other little details that are going on but this is pretty much the sumerised version to get this thread started. So the Goal here for me is to get some feedback to see if I'm on the right track as there is no precedent in North Queensland that I know of as far as GTRs are concerned and any ideas or advice from the guys with the experience circuit racing GTRs will be golden. I've already had some help from some of you and that has been a tremendous help so I know there is a lot of experience and knowlage on this forum so please feel free bounce some ideas my way. Cheers Coop

Sydney Kid, I would like a set to please. Pm me if they're still a goer. Cheers Coop

Here's mine befor new build. Bit different now but is just a pile of parts in the shed so not very exciting. It'll be back but.

'Unless you have a laptop in the kitchen, you need to shorten the chain sir.

I've used transmax z befor with no problems. Not saying it's right but it worked.

Yeah mate mine has 3 wires. blue white purple. Mine is about 4 years old.