jrm

I realise it wasn't created by you - but you're spreading it around. Whether or not some atheists believe in evolution or the big bang theory is irrelevant to them defining themselves as 'atheists'. The word 'atheist' purely means a lack of belief in a deity, nothing more. It's certainly not a religion, despite what some people might mis-understand. Unfortunately many theists have a fundamental misunderstanding of what an atheist is - or what defines an atheist. The reason why atheists arent easy to 'pin down' is simply because it only defines them by their lack of belief - nothing about the way they live their lives, their 'worldview', their beliefs, etc.

Someone is incredibly confused about what an 'atheist' is. It means a lack of belief in a deity. Nothing more. There is nothing in the definition of 'atheist' that describes how the universe was created. Please do not spread mistruths. You're just continuing to perpetuate hate and encourage misunderstanding. Edit: A quick google for that image finds some good webpages that maybe you'll take the time to read: Link1 Link2 Link3 Link4

FPRs are. Catch cans can be, depending how they're set up. Ones that vent to atmosphere are defectable.

Standard upgrades at this point are: * fuel pump * suspension * brakes * aftermarket tuning Fuel pump - as you still have the stock turbo, this probably doesn't need touching unless it's on the way out or you want some piece of mind. It will need to be done longer term. If it's still the original fuel pump its flow could be getting down. You haven't really listed any suspension modifications other than HICAS. Be aware that a HICAS lock bar will not pass through regency, but can be engineered. For me, I like HICAS - when it works right (and usually it's just that the HICAS rack is old or the sensors mis-aligned or missing that you would ever have issues on the street). You should definitely investigate coilovers (be aware of the legalities here), camber kits, castor kits, swaybars etc to improve your handling. A lot of people forget brakes. Generally better quality rotors (slotted, or slotted/dimpled) are a good start, along with a quality dot5.1 brake fluid and braided brake lines and a good quality brake pad. A lot of people skimp on their braking when they increase their power. For me, it's what I did first. Some people also like to fit a brake cylinder stopper. On my R34 I didn't feel much of a difference, but I'm told it can help more on the older R32/33. With regards aftermarket tuning Nistune or PowerFC tends to be the best option for the R33. The R33 cannot be fitted with a nistune easily, unfortunately and requires a R32 or Z32 ECU.

Krishy - so just how modified *is* your car? It wouldn't be a bad idea to get a list of stuff, to figure out what's legal, what can be cheaply engineered, and what would be needed to be reverted to stock. That said, apparently SA police do trawl these forums. Maybe we need a 'defect' section in the members only area.

His location says 'Adelaide'. Free bump

So jealous guys. I was looking forward to Riverland, and I honestly thought my car would be repaired and looking schmick in time for it. No such luck! Represent SAU:SA well, and do us proud

Whacky. Reckon my '34 had far far worse of a hit than that and is getting repaired by insurer. Good luck with the sale, but I'd probably suggest getting it moved to 'For Sale' section - probably the 'parts' or 'whole cars' section.

I got 182.7rwkw with a 3" turbo-back exhaust, Blitz FMIC & K&N Panel filter on my R34. Boost peaked out around 8psi in the midrange, trailing off to 6psi. Your power sounds incredibly low.

They don't fit R33. They're fine in R32/R34. Also keep in mind there is more than one 'silver' paint code for R34 GTT - the most common being KR4 (sonic silver) and KV2 (athlete silver). There is also WV2 (sparkling silver), but as far as I'm aware this is restricted to BNR34 only.

My R34 used to do that too on warmer days - 40+C - but I'm guessing it was to keep the car cool.. Chuck consult on there and make sure your coolant temperatures are still good. Mine were hitting 100+ - turned out my thermostat was toast. You cannot trust the factory gauge, on mine it was still displaying the regular 'half way' when at 100+C.

You can convert your own for a coupla hours time, and about $50 in parts - if you're handy. This way also leaves the option to convert them back easily.

They will, but won't line up with a GTT front-bar. I also suspect the inner-guard liners won't fit right either (not sure if GTR guardliners would fit, but I'd assume so). Of course, if you fit a GTR front-bar, it won't work with the GTT bonnet - and then you need to change the bonnet, latch assembly (bit that holds the horns, bonnet latch, etc), the bonnet latch itself, and the hinges over to GTR items.

Make sure the Viper 5701 meets Australian standards. The Australian standards require things like: All Black Wiring Minimum two points of immobilisation automatically/passively immobilise the vehicle approximately 30 seconds after the ignition is turned off I believe there is also Australian Standards testing they need to undertake to meet the requirements for insurance purposes. Also note you'll not be able to use the remote start/turbo-timer features - ADR 25 requires that the normal function of the engine only occurs when the ignition lock is in the engine on position.

... or even better - use heatshrink. Far better than ugly tape, and far more professional ..

I had understood the issue was that the existing nistuned ECU was configured for a Z32, which is unlikely to pass through Regency - hence trying to find something 'stock' to put a regular AFM back on to get off defect ..

Damn.

Well, you have to actually drive a car to have withdrawl from it

Should be able to pick up a regular ground battery clamp from anywhere and then just wire in the cable to it. Not sure why you're having so much issue - is it the size of the terminals? I got sexy gold terminals for mine from Jaycar, I think ..

As many threads will already state - turbo timers are illegal to use in Australia. Just drive slow for the last coupla minutes of the journey and let it cool down. For reference: That basically covers both turbo-timers and remote start - in each case, you have the normal function of the engine with the ignition lock isn't engaged.

Sold a few weeks back; Haven't updated the thread because it seemed like unnecessary bumping. Admins - feel free to delete.

Congratulations man - it really sounds like you're heading in the right direction.

It's a spring loaded momentary switch. Press it once, that should turn TCS off (and light in the dash), press it again TCS on (light off). Are you sure TCS is operating? (Can check this pretty easy comparison with TCS fuse removed) Have you checked to see if the TCS switch is plugged in? (People often unplug it when doing work under the dash) Does the TCS bulb in the dash light up when you turn the ignition on (but don't start)?

It'll have been exactly 6 months since my accident (big rear-ender into my car) Wednesday next week. I still haven't gotten the car back, but it's getting close. I've been driving my little N14 SSS daily since, but it's not quite the same with 80fwkw compared to the ol' 183rwkw R34 GTT. In the meantime I've been gathering various parts - oil cooler, bigger radiator, swaybars, various nismo parts (speedo cluster, short-shifter, wheel nuts), etc. Gotta do something whilst I wait for it come back to keep my skyline-love alive.

I'm very glad I waited for my nismo lmgt4, and I was more than happy to pay a premium for quality Rays Engineering rims. I could have gone for cheaper (inferior) rotas, but I was specifically holding out for the 'real thing'.