180or200

hey, spotted you at the tsa too! very nice, how was the line up, couldnt think of a better way to waste time.

price isn't too bad thats ready to bolt on, and no other mods needed, machined out to suit gt30, just looking for a comfortable 250-260 rwkw, with std housings it makes a comfortable 230 but runs into back pressure at high rpm. I was told AVO housing has a better wastegate design, will see !

Ok, I thought VG30 was .7 also, I should have the AVO this week for $480

thanks, but not sure were on the same page, the AVO exhaust housing is a .73 and is a direct bolt on for the rb25 http://www.avoturboworld.com/pdf/gts_exhaust_housing.pdf

Hi anyone had any experience with the AVO exhaust housing, I'm expecting one this week, would like some feedback! hopeing it'll free up the top end, i run into alot of back pressure around 6500 rpm, atm running gt30 machined into std housings, should be interesting.

I had to adjust mine after i cleaned the tb it decided to grab an extra 600 rpm, wasnt fun driving around with idle at 1500! power fc was set to 900, so i set fc idle to 800 then unplugged tps and aac then backed of tb until it idled at 800, checked tps was in range, reset idle to 900 then road tested and its sweet!

my r33 came with one fitted, i removed it because it was rubbing on bonnet also flexed so much wasnt worth it, made oil filter changes a bit harder!

230 - 250 rwkw depending on how friendly the dyno is ! hard driving 18 ltrs per 100kms average, stop start, short trip driving 13-14 ltrs per 100 kms could possibly acheive 10 ltrs per 100 km but that would defeat the purpose of owning a turbo sports car!!!

I need to do my r33, I guess rb25 just as cramped?

Those guys who have attempted the seals while leaving the head on, how do you think this tool would go?

thats just background noise anything up to 30 I wouldn't worry about, warning light should flash at 60, mine see's 80 if squeeze 1 to many psi into it

my gts-t had a smell and its a distinctive gear oil smell, small rubber boot on shifter was shagged, nissan had new ones for less than 20 i think

I have one, its ok for 12-14 psi, good streeter, push it to 17 psi and its a heat monster, little housings with big wheels means more friction = heat = knock knock anyone there!

my car came with a gt30 core stuffed into stock housings, makes good power 230rwkw at 1 bar, great response, but its a pig! cronic surging on even the slightest hills and annoying air reversion, i too am thinking gtrs would be the best for what i want, good responce, big midrange torque.

what is the latency of rb25 nismo 740's?

I agree a full remap is important, I just wonder whether a 50 % setting for 740's is anywhere near enough fuel, it will get it to the tuner but will need more work! and yes i have had a full tune, thanks for the offer, I have a apexi pen timer with afr feedback are these very accurate ? seemed pretty good compared to the dyno reading, it sits on 14.7 on cruise, just for reference Guilt-toy were did your injector setting end up?

dyno time is the easy answer, someone who will take the time to flatten out the afr's, mine coincided with a slight boost spike and was advised to leave alone!

I'm not sure this is as clear as you think, surely when fuel pressure is constant and you double the size of the injector, it's not going to flow double the amount without increasing pressure? someone set me straight if this isnt correct ( be nice ) but isnt the closed loop on the fc factory set, so wouldnt that mean you adjust injector percentage until its in the correct afr range of 14.3-14.7 at idle? then correct your fuel map for "wot" anyhoo mine is a rb25 and has nismo 740's set to 65% and 0.00, afr's sit on mid 14's then dips too 11.5 then sits flat on 12 till redline. when i installed i set to 50-55% and closed loop could only manage high 15's no problem with pops or cold starts here and those settings were left alone! i think this subject should be discussed further, no offense but the FAQ is a little vague in this area!

I ran RC1 for a few months, needs lots of Ram and atleast a 256 mb pci video card, was reasonably happy with it ! I will be running a dual boot for atleast 12 months to give the software a chance to catch up, couldn't run a emulator or nero but i have heard nero offer a patch on there site now!

Black rims on silver "phat" according to my sons mate's

mine also burbles a little at idle, wouldnt say its a miss, and is smoother when the a/c is on! I have nismo 740's and they are trying to run at less than 1% at 900 rpm, i think its a load issue, and that my light frisby flywheel doesnt help!

I use castrol SAF-XA 80w-140 full synthetic limited slip rear axle oil in my KAAZ 2 way, was recommended by kaaz dealer, hope this is a help ??

the KAAZ 2 way is a tough unit, can be a little annoying on the street, it grabs a little too often but when you want the grip its awesome! since changing the oil its much nicer to drive, you really need to coast on tight slow corners or it sounds like its going to jump out! the KAAZ dealer here in Adelaide recommended i use castrol SAF-XA 80w-140 fully synthetic, its less than half the price as the KAAZ oil ! should drop oil every 3-5000 kms to keep running smooth!

I had brass nipple silver soldierd into the black pipe comeing straight from the turb by a radiator repairer, thought about tapping into the cast piece that bolts onto to it but wanted it to be leak proof ! your set gain could be the issue, your telling it to start opening before the stock actuator has enough pressure ( 7-8 psi ) anyhow here are my settings to run 12-13 psi set 40% gain 10% set gain 100 warn 200 l warn 15%

Mine was plumbed wrong when i got the car, it was connected to the carbon canistor that went to the plenum, and would spike, wouldn't read less than 12 psi, then i moved it into the outlet pipe on the turbo and it works fine, 40% 12-13psi, 50% 17 psi, switched off 8 psi !