Sandeep

have you tested your o2's? you can do it using a voltmeter or using consult/datascan. you just need to make sure they're nice and responsive and that the voltage output should sweep from low to high about once a second. datascan or consult is easiest coz it will just display the voltage output for you. just make sure your car is at operating temp and you'll need to rev to about 2000rpm when you're measuring the voltages.

first thing is to check for fuel leaks, a clamp may have come loose somewhere in the engine bay so just check them to be safe. also check your coolant temperature sender for surface corrosion on the connector... if the ecu doesn't get a good signal from the coolant temp sender it may think the car is running cold and will richen up the AFR's. you can clean the CTS with a nail file, just need to remove any surface corrosion so that the sensor and loom connector have nice clean metal. if O2 sensors and CTS checks out, check your fuel pressure regulator and also do an intake pressure test to see if you've got any vacuum leaks. also try and get your car on consult or datascan to check for error codes.

ok. the best advice i could give you is to check out www.aus300zx.com , you'll get info from people who actually own 300zx's. I have had my zed for about a year and a half and I love it, i don't see myself driving anything else. I do like skylines also but the zed is a different beast, it's a GT car, kinda more like a fast cruiser. These things sold for 80k back in '89 which is a huge amount. you get all the nice features that are just coming out in aussie cars, power windows, power mirrors, climate control, targas, electric seats, abs, hicas (twin turbo only) etc. Cheap to run? depends how good your car is to begin with. generally the first things you should do when buying a zed is to do the 100,000km service (full kit is about $700 parts plus a days labour), flush and rod radiator and replace radiator hoses. This is just preventative maintenance, you want to make sure your car will be reliable. parts are good for the zed, since Nissan Australia actually sold the zed here we can get parts from dealers as well as other specialist dealers such as www.cazracing.com.au , www.ttzed.com , www.conceptzperformance.com (US but great service) , www.amecautocare.com.au , www.nismo.com.au (JP runs this place, he drives the slotcar, you might have seen it) , www.perthzperformance.com etc... plenty of parts available on nengun, perfectrun etc. insurance depends on the age, experience etc. I can get full comp on my NA with just cars flexi premium for 1500 ish. 85000-100000km would not be accurate. think about it, the car is 19 years old with 100,000km on the clock... it just doesn't make sense. it's very difficult to get a genuine km zed from japan, almost always the odometer is wound back and they usually throw out the log books. for instance mine has 145,000km on the clock... its closer to 250,000km. you need to look at things like the gear knob, steering wheel, condition of dash/plastic trim etc and also the drivers seat bolster for wear. these can give you a better indication of the km on the car. honestly though, a twin turbo for a first car would be abit risky. probably get an NA Australian delivered model. Generally the aussie delivered models are less likely to have had the odo wound back, you can usually get service history also. any car can be a money pit. if you get a well cared for example, good compression and good service history then chances are you're not going to have to pour money into it (unless you want to mod it). you gotta be prepared to pay for a good car though, no point in buying a 8k TT and finding that the turbos are gone and it's got low compression... that would be a money pit. true they are labour intensive. removing turbos is engine out job. engine bay is cramped but if you can do the main servicing yourself then you'll save money. celica would be cheaper to run, but completely different car. never heard of that brake fluid leak problem... could be caused by people running the wrong type of brake fluid. installing pod filter is easy, the pod isn't even in the engine bay, it's under the nose panel. 2x10mm bolts to take off the nose panel. intercoolers require removal of front bar, i think that's the same on most cars. if you need a good, honest zed specialist mechanic i'd recomend Joe of Dontex (vermont) or Andrew (works in Hallam i think). Joe used to work at Z shop and Nissport but has since moved on and works at Dontex, he by far the best zed mechanic in melbourne. Andrew was his apprentice at Nissport and did most of the work on my car when it was at nissport. The thing that they have in common is that you can trust them 100% and they have a passion for the 300zx. I have both their numbers if you need them for pre-purchase inspections etc. I really don't know where all these rumours come from. a properly maintained zed, even with stock front bar and radiator etc, will not overheat on long drives. when i got my car the first thing i did was do the 100k service (includes waterpump and thermostat), flushed and rodded radiator and replaced my upper hose with a new Nissan one and put an alloy lower hose in. I still have to do an under plenum bypass and cleanup but my zed has never overheated and i've done DECA on a nice hot day. yes the engine bay is cramped, under bonnet temps are abit higher than most are used to but a cooling system that is upto spec will not cause an overheat. it's only the cars that haven't been looked after that overheat.. that's how the zed gets it's bad rep but it's not fair to say that all zeds have cooling problems because it's not true. sort of... the only zeds that have issues are the ones that run fmic's without the proper shroud. zeds run stock smic's, when people choose to run fmic and don't create a shroud to force air into the fmic and through the radiator they'll find that their temps start to get towards the 90's. abit high but not dangerous. it may contribute to an overheat but will not cause the car to overheat unless there are other faults in the cooling system (thermostat, coolant leaks etc.) please elaborate. serious question, have you ever owned a zed? how can they be "very very very bad" when the z32 was named in the top 10 cars list for every year it was sold? how can they be bad when they are still included in the 20 greatest cars of the last 20 years? how can they be bad when they're still considered the best used sports car under $15,000 by drive? maybe you just had a bad experience with a lemon but i can assure you, they're not "very very very bad". agree. alot of negative comments about the zed in this thread and i'm sorry about the long reply but i just don't like when people who have heard things about a car start to bad mouth it without even having owned one. but i'm not going to try converting everyone into zed lovers, believe what you want to believe but i'm just going to tell you the facts. admittedly, i'm highly biased towards the zed. i love my zed and if someone gave me 15k i'd go out and buy another one. it's only cars like the r34 gtr that i would consider buying, but until i can afford one, I'll take my 300zx over anything else.

i've got 4300k, pure white light. 6000k is white with a slightly blue tinge. My friend has 10k in his accord euro, it's almost purple. Rice factor is high but visibility-wise, they're useless.

Have you isolated which cylinder is the suspect? Turn your car on and starting from the front, disconnect the plug to the coilpack. The rpm should drop when you disconnect the coilpack connector. If the rpm doesn't drop then that means that cylinder(s) is the one you should look at closer. Do this for all 6 cylinders and try to make a note of which cylinder causes no rpm drop or a very small rpm drop. check the sparkplugs and also while your doing the spark plug change, get a compression test done. I'm not sure what the compression figures should be for your car but the figures should be consistent accross all 6 (ie you don't want 150, 155, 160, 110, 155, 160)

try Ozgloss, 43 Bennet street Dandy. I've seen some cars that have been done there, really good finish. price may be abit more than you're willing to spend but worth a shot.

here's my graph, feel free to analyse it: just remember it's an NA 300ZX, not a twin turbo. I did a compression test last week, 190psi on all 6 cylinders and I've got an Apexi pod, 2.5 frontpipes, metal cats and cat back and also a lighter tailshaft. stock NA Zed with perfect compression should hit 120rwkw. I think I may have hit the Jap speed limiter though. abit dissapointed that I only got 1 run... started missfiring and Ray backed off (he's got good ears.. I didn't hear anything until it returned to idle.. sounded like a rexy). Was only the coil pack connectors coming loose so I dropped a cylinder... just pushed them back on but there was no point asking for another run as they'd just come off again. my fault for being lazy, I have the new connectors in my room but didn't install them because my coilpack connectors have never come off under normal load on the street. Also need to sort out some vacuum leaks and replace O2 sensors. I want to go back for another run after I fix everything. Hoping for 125-130rwkw using the stock tune. I think there's definately more in it and maybe next year I'll get extractors and a retune and try and hit 150kw. Other than that it was good to meet a few people even though i didn't stay for long, won't feel like such a newb next time I'm at a SAUVIC event. Thanks to all the people who organised it.

if i remember, i'll bring down my laptop and conZult cable... only ever used it on my zed but i think it can hook up to the consult port on any skyline upto 33 series 1 (i think it works on the pre '95 ODB1 cars, won't work on ODB2) so if anyone wants error codes checked before they hit the dyno i can probz do that (until the battery runs out). I'll only be there in the morning though, can't stay for the whole day.

Bought a set of cam covers to play around with so I can reroute the the pcv system. They came off a friend's car and are all covered in oil sludge... I've soaked them in degreaser and scrubbed but I want to get them as clean as possible (there's still a fair bit of sludge on them... plus there's 4 cam covers and i'm pretty lazy) so don't mind paying to have them cleaned. I don't really know much about acid dipping but will this remove all the sludge? Or is acid dipping used for other reasons? Does anybody know of any good places in Melbs, preferably SE suburbs? any other recomendations for removing the sludge? any advice welcome. thanks

ok cool. i just figured that with so many cars coming they might not have time to do afr's.

thanks, i'll have a think about it and decide tomorrow.

very keen... do we need a helmet or fire extinguisher to attend one of these days? any scrutineering requirements?

cool, I'll probably be there in the morning.

I'll be there. Never had a dyno run in my car, not expecting much though... just an NA. If I want to get a CAMS licence, can I bring the forms down to get them signed so I can send them off to CAMS? edit: also with the printouts, is it just kw/torque/rpm or can we get AFR/kw/rpm?

they're still being manufactured, they weren't in stock when the GB closed. None of the aus300zx guys have recieved them either, won't be long now though.

did you get any photo's of the road with the branch on it etc? I think I heard that the council will only cover upto $1000... how much would 1 of your rims cost or are they out of production or japanese? and get someone to check the tyre to see if it's alright to keep driving on after the impact.

I'd be in for a hychill regas in se suburbs. if you need more cars I could probably get some friends... just give me a week or so notice. btw level323, would this be safe for a z32 300zx aircon system? I was just confused why most zed owners prefer the r134a conversion rather than just going for the Hychill minus 30...

What would I be kidding about? As I said, my opinions will be different to yours, which is why I put the Z32 higher on the list. My list isn't right or wrong, it's just my opinion, just like everyone else's lists. Maybe I should have posted this in general auto discussion? Mods can move it if they want.

Not sure if this has been done on SAU but someone did this on 300zx forums and figured it would be interesting to see what you guys thought. So basically, what Nissan's (and Datsun's, Nismo's or Prince's... whatever) do you think make the top 10? You can add a reason if you feel, no right or wrong answers, just your opinion. Guess you can look at it from a few ways: - list the most significant Nissan's - the order and preference you'd buy them Mine's sort of a mix of both. Here's my list: 10. S15 Silvia 9. R35 GTR- Only number 10 because it's so new, will move up the list, I'm sure, once it establishes itself as a Porsche killer 8. Z33 350Z- Z car reborn, needs turbo's though! 7. KPGC10- my fav old school car... looks tough 6. R33 GTR 5. R32 GTR- The first Godzilla 4. Z32 300ZX- Timeless styling, won heaps of awards over it's production life, plus i'm slightly biased towards them 3. R34 GTR (hopefully my next car... once i get a decent job) 2. Nismo Z Tune 1. 240Z- Original Z car, it's gotta be number 1

This is a DIY IC spray done on a Z32. Guess you could use the same principles. http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugi...php?content.315 Do skylines have the rear window washer? if they do maybe you could take the line that goes to the rear window washer and reroute it to the IC. another good mod would be to make an air guide to force air through the fmic. otherwise air will hit the FMIC and just go around/under it. there's some good info in this thread: http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=261337 these pics are from that thread. the pic below is of the Unique Autosports Slotcar. And this is what another member made. all i've done to get my car ready for summer is replace the upper hose with a new stock one, replace the lower hose with a alloy hose (stock rubber can be sucked flat under extreme thrashing = no coolant into engine), radiator rodded & flushed and put new toytoa red coolant in.

my Zed (j spec) does it too, and i'm pretty sure even the aus-delivered zeds do it too... anyone got a link to the adr rule about lows+highs staying on at the same time? i got a roadworthy last year with my zed, he mentioned that the low beams needed to be adjusted but nothing about staying on at the same time as the high beams.

maybe try softening up the damping on the rear and see if that helps.

is the noise from the caliper? try it with the car switched off and stationary and just push the brake pedal, slowly, but keep pushing it until you can't push anymore, if you hear the clicking/creaking noise then it's the pistons on the caliper.

haven't tried the ultimates, heard that they're rotor eaters... i'm currently on ebc green which i think are pretty good but have new ferodo DS2500's waiting to go in which are supposed to be very good. bit pricey though, double what you'll pay for the ultimates but no comparison as far as braking performance goes.

if you're car has sentimental value or your mods are unique then i'd keep it and do the turbo swap. if your car doesn't have that much sentimental value to you or your mods can be transferred over to the turbo car, then buy the gtst and swap your mods over. i'm most probably going to keep my NA 300 and build up a tt motor to swap in once i'm off my p's and can afford the upkeep on a turbo car. my zed's got sentimental value (first car), plus i've put too much money into it and won't get much back so i'd rather keep it.