jake33

yeah well undone all the screws (about 7 of em) took it all off to reveal a lot of wires, metal crap n shit still couldnt feel or find it it. have no idea what it even looks like. it seems its in the top half of the steering wheel (meaning right behind the wheel itself). when i turn the wheel side to side quickly i can here it rattling around... so litlle and minor but yet it get me so cut.

yeah i got the airbag version. ok will undo those screws and see what happens. just hoping the airbag doesnt deploy and screw me over.

anyone?? i looked and saw philly head screws on the colum, but it looks a little more complicated. cheers jake

sorry to hear that man. i clipped a garden rock doing like a 15 point turn in a no room driveway yesterday...cracked side skirt and some bad scuffs. i feel your pain buddy

^ ^ ^ wondering the same thing.. yeah id best interested if the would fir a 33 gtst in white? where you located?? pics??

So what am i looking for(what it looks like)??? is it just sitting inside the colum?? if i remove it,, im guessing i wont need it for anything?? definetly would like to fix the problem, as my ride very stiff and the jingling noise happen over every slight bump!! thanks. jake

ok as stated... when i go over bumps on roads the sterring wheel rattles., now i checked to make sure its not the keys in the ignition jingling, or the ignition hole iteslf. when i adjust the steering hieght up and down it makes the noise...(when i bang it down) it kinda sounds like and allen key tapping against metal (best sounding example) and it is definetly comming from the steering colum. anyone else had this prob or know what it might be.. ??? also is it easy to take the colum casing off. so annoying! cheers jake

thanks for the pics people. ive got a few idea's now running threw my head. think ill just take my time and go the hack myself.(save some money). ill be sure to post pics when shes done. cheers jake

i wouldnt go any bigger than 19's. they fit on my 33 with a front spacers. but if i have a full load in the back and hit a big bump it slightly scuffs the guards. at full lock it doesnt rub either so i would assume with no mods that 20s wouldnt fit. 18s would be sweet for the all round package., but i just coundnt help myself with 19s also i have stock suspension set up. not sure of my offset but they dont stick out and a almost perfectly alligned with the body (pic doesnt look it) post pics if ya get em! jake

after a pair or one if possible. mine now has a crack!! prefferablly in white . located in melb, can come pick up wherever in VIC, PM me please cheers jake

hmm. mines needs to get regassed too.. how much to get it done..?? (ball park figure..?)

guessing you melted the air induction plastic? howd you go about doing it?

he yeah heard that on the radio yesterday. couldnt stop laughing.

ah shit! sorry i do have an mspec front bar. sorry guys. yeah thats what i was considering.. removing that middle section in the bar. just unsure if i should get a shop to do it or go the hack on it myself. thanks for the pic. keep em comming if anyones got anymore. thanks jake

ha yeah was thinking somthing in between. exposed but not overally exposed. kinda like a woman in her underwear rather that completly naked. ..pfft! pics anyone?? cheers

yeah you should find something you would be happy with for 13k. a series 2 might be a little more. i got my series 1 95 for 11, so you just got to be lucky and do some hardcore searching theres a "plethera" of parts people trade on here, plus shops, mags, ebay.. so you should be sweet. i personally pay 1400 for insurance, being male, having a turbo, and being under 25, you definetly have the odds against you with insurance. good luck with the hunting

yeah i know but i was refering to actual cutting for visual appearence. i think ive seen a pic on a series 1 with no visual bar changes (from the outside..i know you would have to cut it on the inside to fit it in.) if that makes sense. so looking for S1 front bars with the cooler fully installed pics if anyone.. thanks jake

wondering when i get my FMIC if i should hack into the front bar for more cooling exposure or just leave it. if i go ahead and attepmt it i would want to make sure it sweet and no dodgy cut marks ect.. can anyone post pics of how there front mount looks with the series one front bar??? i.e stock or cut into. (professionally done or DIY) thanks jake

Ba Zing! thats what i did. im guessing thats sweet.

didnt get one in the package

yes i can. on the last thread or 2 it holds perfectly at 7psi. got a R33 as i screw down more (although very sensitive... screwed down 2 rotations and it went up to 16 ) up the boost goes. such an amazing little peice of work . i set mine to 9psi (no fmic yet) and it holds boost between gear changes(i.e when shifting at full boost it will only lower to about 6 or 7 then hit straight back up to 9), feels heaps smoother comming on to boost compared to my old gfb which was set at 10 and seemed very laggy. full credit to the guy who makes them. works perfect. (came with the the hole already drilled) i documented the install from the GFB to the turbotech over 3 photos. (photos are massive 1600 x 1200, forgot to change the setting)

prob some kind of S class. there more squre shaped, maybe a S500

yeah i think ill go the pump. then once coolers in, ill get a tune. thanks for the advice jake

im sure its been plugged before but an awesome source for the history an evolution on the line: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Skyline i never knew that RB stood for 'race bred' i swear i lean so much more on this and other sites than at uni.

yeah well boost is sitting at 10psi atm, so im assuming when the cooler goes in it might bump it up a notch so maybe the pumps the way to go.. but then again, front and rear struts would be helpful too... hmmm decisions........ decisons....... WWJD?