PM-R33

The ones I saw from Taiwan seemed to be better quality. I think Dave said the same thing to me when I spoke to him about them a year or so ago.

Hahahahaha love it.

This has been doing my head in recently so I need to find out more info before I spend money on something that aint going to work. So basically as most people know, Volk GTC wheels require special Rays Lug Nuts to make them fit. These lut nuts look like this: They are expensive, don't look all that great and if you loose/break one you are pretty screwed. Everyone uses these as they are basically the only option and no other lug nuts fit. However when I bought my wheels I thought that maybe if I got longer wheel studs it would allow me to run normal lug nuts. Turns out it works and I run normal open ended lug nuts like this: So my question is. If I now run normal open ended lug nuts as above, does that mean that I can now run some form of Rays lug nut? I really want some black lug nuts that are closed on the end. Not open ended because it looks all crappy rusted inside. The issue is the diameter of the lug nut. As on the GTC wheel they go completely inside and actually "lock in" towards the middle of the wheel instead of right on the outside. But if you look at a picture such as this of a different type of aftermarket lug nut, it appears that something might work since it looks to be the same diameter as my one on the far right? Thoughts? I'm getting to confused by constantly looking at different pictures of lug nuts and I just want some damn black closed ended lug nuts lol.

Oh man that brings back memories! I can't believe you got it! That was the hardest thing to get ever in a game. You literally had to run through the whole level perfectly to get it. That game had the most replay value out of any game I have owned. Literally played it for about 2-3 years on a weekly basis.

So why are you telling us? I don't get it

Unforunately they didn't get sent out this week They are hoping this Monday. Delivery time should be around 1-2 weeks depending on location around Australia.

I looked into the copy Brides prior to buying my seats. I've now seen a couple of the copies and they really aren't that bad. If they had made copy Bride Euros I probably would have bit the bullet on those. With quality I suppose it varies company from company since they are made in China and also Taiwan. For the money it really isn't that bad. No worse than any other Ebay/Supercheap/Autobarn no brand seat. If the group buy goes ahead post up plenty of pics

Yeah they bullshit the figures sometimes. But they are ment to be rated as BHP. Really? They make that much at the wheels standard? Wow.

LS1s into RX7s are very common in the states. You can buy a straight drop in kit for cheap. Sounds nuts aswell.

Word. Long live Goldeneye and Perfect Dark.

BHP refers to an engines power with nothing else dragging it down (no mufflers/gearbox/diff/aux components etc). So in reality it is the power the engine makes before it is put into the car hooked up onto an engine dyno in a workshop. HP is just the overall unit of measurement and can refer to anything eg. HP @ the wheels. 330kw@wheels is around 442hp@wheels. To convert that to BHP is more of a guessing game and gets brought up on the forums quite a lot. Most methods people say are completely wrong (percentage, fixed amount etc). The only way to truely convert it is to know the BHP of the engine, then to know the HP@wheels of that exact same engine. Work out the loss of power and use that as your "x". Then when you have more power, so in your case 442hp@wheels, add the "x" and this will be your rough lowest amount of BHP. It will naturally be a bit more than this as there will be more loss, but this can't be worked out accurately enough for the sake of these discussions. There are a lot of factors that come into play and it gets quite technical. So just quickly as an example (I have done this one a few times in the past). Car makes 400BHP when new. Same car put onto a dyno makes 350HP@wheels. Loss of 50HP. Three years later the car has been modified with an exhaust, tune and more boost and now makes 500HP@wheels. Add back original loss of 50HP. The rough lowest amount of BHP is 550BHP. However in reality it will obviously be slightly more than this as more loss has occured. Only ever BHP. Hope that clears all that up for you.

Me 3 lol. Just sent another email to see if they have been sent.

Me lol. Paul at Xtreme will be your best bet.

There are plenty that are better, however for most people it is as good as they need. My collection basically consists of a mixture of Mothers, Meguiars and Autoglym products since I can pick them up locally and don't have to order online.

Glad this has been brought up. Yep people do it. It is a very old fashioned way of doing things though. There is a product that you can buy in the shops called Nu Finish - bright orange bottle. There used to be ads in Australia for it long ago with a car in the desert under the sun with the Nu Finish polish on it. They call it the "once a year car polish". It is very popular and I used to get asked for it by a lot of old people while working in the retail industry. I however was not a fan of it at all and used to always tell people "You know the majority of that product is kerosene right?". They would start going "IT IS NOT! It's a fantastic product, i've been using it for the last 20 years!". Then I would go "smell the product...". Long story short yes kerosene works. It takes off all the contaminents from the paint. Just as wax and grease remover would. It is not used as a wax, but as a polish. I however don't trust it on clear coats. Fair enough on older cars without clear coats it may have worked fine. But on a modern clear coat there is no way in hell that I would be using kerosene.

Also in theory, could you download two games on one PS3, copy them to an external and then install them on another PS3? Or are downloaded games from the PSN copy protected?

Just had a look at all those games. Dead nations seems to look pretty good. Is that Little Big Planet allright?

Wow! Just wow! Nice find man. No idea what that car is either

Fairly sure as a legal requirement putting a RB25DET into a GTS requires you fit GTST brakes. So buy mine http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/364573-r33-gtst-complete-upgraded-front-brake-package/page__pid__5817167#entry5817167

Hey guys Have for sale my R33 GTST front brake setup due to a brake upgrade. The kits consits of: Nissan 4 Piston GTST Calipers Painted Black RDA Slotted/Dimpled Gold Passivated & Zinc Coated Rotors EBC Red Stuff Brake Pads Hel ADR Approved Braided Brake Lines Perfect upgrade for a Skyline GTST/GTS or a Silvia and basically the best you can get out of the factory calipers. The calipers are a lot lighter than Silvia calipers and obviously the rotors are larger than Silvia rotors. The rotors and pads have plenty of meat on them, were purchased brand new a few of years ago. Car doesn't do that many kms so still very good. Would prefer pickup in Townsville due to weight however freight could be organised. Would like $500 ONO. Cheers Phil

Yayyy it's back!! Two free games is pretty cool. I'm happy with that (Also because I don't actually own/have played any of those 5 games lol)

Company is Innovativ Car Tech. Righteo so I got a response and looks like I was right. The holes inside are just a smooth shaft, no thread. So what you guys think? Still good to go and we can just tap the thread?

Yeah I know, couldn't beleive it! Hopefully this can all be finished soon.

Yeah it's tiny. Like 4mm from memory.

WOHOOOO!! Finally some good news! The accelerator pedals and bushes arrived today. They got sent in a seperate box than the clutch and brake pedals so they should rock up soon aswell. Still waiting on an update with the footrests from Japan.