RANDY

Holy old post, Batman!

A bird pooped on mine when I was shopping one day. Now I only park undercover. Is that too anal?

i.e... R32 handbrake light. - Handbrake is on, or brake fluid low. That's worth about 10 posts so far!

I can grab the same kind of image from FAST. It's just a matter of finding out the wattages and locations of all the bulbs and LED's. I'm sure the '32 owners would find it useful! The number of threads i've seen where people ask "what does this light mean", "what would light up in this location", or "what kind of bulb goes here"... ;o)

It's hard to... it really looks like the blades are angled to push air back forards through the radiator. If you've wired it to run backwards, then I guess you'll get a little bit of suction, but nowhere near as much as it could make. Combined with no shroud, it's only sucking air through a small area of the radiator. In any case, I think a stock setup would work much better than what you have, or as mentioned, an aftermarket direct-fit or GTR type.

Larger pic pls? That one doesn't open? Also, does the rear muffler unbolt? PM please!

They certainly look like they will push air back out the front of the radiator. That can't be good! Anyway, dunno about the VL radiator, but perhaps you could stretch the budget to JustJap's aluminium radiator? I think they're around 350, and they fit like a stocker. A mate of mine put one in his 32 GTR, and it was fine apart from a bit of radiator shroud that needed to be chopped.

I'll go the VE also.

In what way won't it start? Turns over but doesn't catch, or no battery? Gotta be more descriptive =-]

7.5. use a pair of needle-nose pliers to gently lift the old half-moon rubber from the back of the rocker assembly. Coat all outside edges of the new half-moon with gasket goo before reinserting. =-D

Thanks, Paul! Updated! Could anyone with the above models please check that the ordering is correct on their dashes please? Particularly SLIP and 4WD.

I was going to suggest some kind of wiring in the ignition barrel, as booster pointed out, but I know nothing of how that's wired up.

Oh.. I just read your avatar info... it's an auto, yeah? You might have a funny/loose wire in the auto shifter surround? There is usually a "neutral" or "park" sensor that operates much like the handbrake sensor (that turns the light on the dash on). If that little switch is a bit dodgy, the ECU thinks you're in gear, and refuses to even start the starter motor, so that it doesn't chew itself out as it tries to launch your in-gear car. If it plays up persistently for a few tries, wiggle the shifter a bit, and try again. If that seems to work every time, then you need to change that sensor switch.

just try with the door open, so you can hear if the solanoid is TRYING to engage.

Makes perfect sense =-] I kinda already knew this. (2v along RCA) And the reason I don't hear it through my sub, which is now the only thing running off the amp, is because the amp is doing a low-pass filter which chops off the top of the frequency range, and the sub itself by nature doesn't reproduce those frequencies. Oh well... my Skyline can't be perfect in EVERY way for me. ;o) Thanks for the info though!

Wicked! Nice thread in any case!

Well.. thanks for bringing this up from almost 3 years ago... I need to do this! My driver-side wiper has lost a gradienting area, which often catches the setting sun and directs it right into my eyes. My sunnies don't stand a chance!

Do you hear a little click? If your solanoid in the starter motor is weak or has a bad connection, it can sometimes half-engage. The motor in the starter won't start over as a safety precaution (so you don't grind the gear on it as it's starting to engage). Some people get stuck like this, and have to whack the starter motor with a hammer to dislodge the solanoid. (not on Skylines, mind you.. older cars that you can get a hammer onto easily) Might be worth getting an auto sparky to check the wiring to the starter?

Nope! I can see the gasket pics, and they don't have the half-moon built in. They ARE a different part number, and I had to ask for them seperately. I bought mine 2 days ago now, and they weren't built-in. So you guys above who say you can see it built-in, that raised arch is for the front, but the rear camshaft seals (half-moon) can come out. When in, it makes the back flat, which sits flat against the flat part of the rocker gasket/cover. I didn't take pics, but next time someone is doing this, they will be able to see what i'm talking about... as R33_racer mentions also. So if you're still leaking oil around the back, and down onto your gearbox, those half-moons will need to be replaced and resealed! =-]

Search around... there are guides and posts about people doing compression tests, and asking the same questions. I can't recall off the top of my head either. Definately it's the best way to check the health of your rings/pistons.

Oh fair enough! Worth a try!

That clothes hanger trick is apparently how theives break into Skylines... so it should work. failing that, as razor says, get NRMA/RACV to come and do it for you.

heh.. umm.. there is a large harness of wires behind the HU (factory) and the plug on it is yellow. I used the power and ignition wiring from the factory loom... I didn't think this was an issue with the headunit because all the speakers are totally fine when they run directly from it. it was only when I was moving the RCA cables around, that I noticed that the noise went louder when I pressed them against that yellow plug. I suspect that harness has the rev signal wire going through it. I was going to try my other headunit, but at the time I remembered that I fitted it to my gf's car, and now I have no spare. So I gave up after LOTS of reading and searching and just ran it the way I have always run my stereo's before. Sub amped, speakers to headunit. Works a treat really. thanks for the suggestions though... there doesn't seem to be ONE fix for this problem. I'm still convinced that it's an RCA grounding issue between amp and headunit though.

So.. markings on the engine-part, markings on the belt, markings on the cam gears... right? Make sure you put your CAS back to where it was. there should be a paint marking... about 15 degrees before top dead centre? I think it's about that for R33's?

Front hub: Rear hub: