RANDY

I have the same thing. It appears to be leaking oil from a broken/missing stud. A friend pointed out some oil from my rocker gasket and suggested that it's just running down the back, and then around that last manifold pipe. I dunno.. I recken i've got a tiny leak there, but my pressure and temps are fine, and it doesn't lose oil. I HAVE heard that if you drill too far into the hole to get a broken stud out, that you can go too far and puncture into the head fairly easily. Either way, with a new stud in there, it should seal that hole up pretty well I think! Hopefully i'll be getting all new studs in the next few weeks.

Heh.. with the turbo timer, I don't get the beep because the alarm thinks the car is still on. (and it is really) Problem is if I leave the parkers or cabin light on, I don't get the chime. Apart from that, what i'd really like to see, is someone convert the output of the beeper into an LED flasher. I'd find that FAR less annoying when vacuuming my car! Geoff, i'll probably hit you up with some of those questions! =-D

I thought that the relay worked on resistance in power? I don't know the answer, but I haven't heard of any timer box before. Hopefully someone can clear this up, but I think you should check your window relay.

Fair enough guys! I wasn't sure if it was a bad idea or not. Obviously not!

Chris: Ah yeah! Fair call. My lady's car is an '84 Honda Civic, so that makes sense! Mark: No problems! I hope you get it sorted!

As far as the fuse and fuel thing... I wouldn't think it was wise. Running lean like that (even briefly) could cause issues. I guess the motive behind that is to release the pressure of the fuel? Do it the next morning, and the fuel pressure will probably drop sufficiently, but put nice thick rags under the work-area just incase eh?

So.... you have the seat-belt end, and the carpet end? But they are loose wires, no plug? Sounds like some very spirited vacuuming or friends with big feet ripped the plug off or something? I don't know why anyone would remove the plug intentionally. Mine has (from memory) about 3 wires in the harness? You just need to plug both ends together with the correct pin-out. They're probably the same coloured wires on both sides. Out of curiousity, does your seatbelt light on the dash light up when the ignition is on, but the belt is not done up?

More pics, although it's a very old. http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_0353/article.html

Ahhh... that melting in the LCD panel? That's melted liquid crystals. Dead clock man. Pretty sure anyway. That'll certainly not light up.

Maybe for fun, use the RL (loudest) wiring from the HU, and just hold them to the wiring for each other speaker and compare? If all the speakers are just as loud, then it'd be a HU problem I'd assume. If they still act up, then yeah.. you could have a few shorting somewhere, or a dodgy crossover. Hmm.. still.. the whole thing screams wiring... like common ground. You have the stock speakers, right? My lady's Honda was crazy like that too. It was almost like the commonly-grounded speakers were doubling the resistance back to the HU. (halving the ohm value) and therefore upping the HU's wattage output. I doubt this is the actual case, because 8ohm stuff is generally reserved for HiFi stuff, and cars use 4ohm and sometimes 2ohm for subs. Anyway, definately troubleshoot it down. Unplug all from HU. Grab the loudest output pair from the HU, then test them to each speaker. Shouldn't need to power the HU off for this test.

I guess "off the mark" is really a torque matter until the turbo can do anything for you. A bigger turbo will probably take even longer to spool on a 2L motor... perhaps a high-flow ball-bearing jobbie on your current turbo? Perhaps a series 2 R33 turbo might be more efficient. They are ball-bearing already, and have a nylon compressor wheel. Other than that, I recken a tune of the AFR's might help a bit down low. Certainly the exhaust and dump will play a big part in torque. "no cat is stock" ? Do you have no cat or the stock cat? If stock, replace to match the rest of your system man!

DVC would use 4 inputs. 2 pairs basically, right? To make one of them run really well, you'd use a 4-channel amp, and bridge the front pair and rear pair, so that you have 2 of pairs to go into the sub box. If you have 2 DVC's, you'd have 8 inputs, or 4 pairs. I guess you'd need two 4-channel amps to run it like that? You CAN parallel each DVC sub, but then I guess each sub is getting half of what it is capable of taking? Chris will tell ya!

Did the stock HU use a common ground for fronts and another for rears? Or are you simply reusing all the original wiring? Sounds like you might be using the negative of one speaker on another speaker or something like that?

I have the 741 premier? or 471... the top one, in any case. I love it. Only gripe is that the alarm isn't scarily loud. Otherwise, the options you can choose are great! I had the installer put a remote boot release (wasn't an option though), and I use it ALL the time. Infact, the only time I use a key is to turn the ignition on. It has the built-in turbo timer, which saves my cabin from having a box and wires hanging around. Chris can probably rate your particular model of alarm better than I can, but the one I have is great. I think I helped convince a mate to have one put in his car... I haven't heard any complaints.

It depends on the internals of that muffler, as Mad082 is saying. Most mufflers quieten the sound by rebounding the exhaust gas off things until the resonance cancels itself out. A stock muffler is basically an empty can, with a few "U" shaped bits of metal at each end. The gasses bounce off one, back to the other end of the muffler, then bend again, then out the end-pipe. A "straight-through" muffler will be louder, because they are basically a can, with a perforated tube from the inlet to the outlet. Some gasses can escape out the perforated tube and into the body of the muffler, but that's about all it does for quietening. So as you can imagine, the less restrictive design is going to be the better flowing one... better flowing should equate to more power on a turbo'd car. I beleive on a 4-banger, it will just reduce backpressure, which is what small motors rely on for making torque.

See guide in my sig! =-D Should work the same sort of way for 32's

I have the R34 GTT wheels on my R33 series 2, and between the caliper and the inner part of the rim, I couldn't get a nail inbetween the two. I guess it would only become an issue if/when the wheel-bearings wear out horribly... I guess that's the only time the wheel could move closer to the caliper housing.

Wires would be for the seat-belt light possibly? Or even for the seat-belt pretensioner.. I guess they both need to know if the seatbelt is plugged in or not. Mine has them.

I traced onto some thicker MDF. Used a drill, jigsaw, belt sander, hammer and chisel. Getting the vent-holes right was a pain, and the thicker MDF doesn't allow the clips on the vents and wiper-cover to clip in, you just have to make it tight so they wedge in and stay there. I also put screws and washers into the little pipes that had those clamping washers on them. That worked a treat. Had to belt-sand the edge of the MDF that goes against the rear window because the thickness of the wood was stopping it from sitting under the window correctly. I put a 30 degree angle on it, and she slid right in. Tight as anything now, but the bare MDF on metal can sometimes resonate. The old shelf has that crappy padding on it, so i'm going to remove the shelf soon and lay some dynamat on the metal part of the parcel-shelf. If you were to buy MDF or masonite the same thickness as the stock stuff, and replace the child restraint plastic clips with bolts and nuts (as I did), I recken it'd be much more rigid than the factory one, and you would probably gain a few dB. Oh, add carpet and woodglue to the list.

Alternatively, there are PS lines in the engine bay, on the drivers side, running down to the rack. The rubber pipes are clamped to metal pipes, and they commonly leak there. You can get to the pipes from the top or bottom, and new pipe and clamps should be cheap. (if they're really oily)

Mine is soooo cold. =-p Maybe run through the diagnostics on the unit? If the air-temp sensor thinks it's already cold, it won't try to pump more cold in. Your gas might be fine!? Make sure your A/C compressor turns on and off.. Listen and feel the car while you're idling. It bumps the revs around when it turns on and off. If you don't get that, then your compressor could well have died. I've heard that's pretty common.

Is that so?? Mine seem to have the mechanical teeth like most normal cars.. If you pull the belt hard and fast, it'll lock. What I *have* noticed about the pre-tensioners, is that they tension when the ignition is on. The belt is really loose when the car is off, and has a fair amount of resistance when the car is on. When I turn the ignition off, most times I hear a loud mechanical thump from both sides of the car, and then the belt is loose.

wtf? So... you ran grounding wires from the boot, along with the RCA's, to the ends of them that plug into the HU, and then used the outer part of the RCA for the grounding? I've tried this method also, with some success. I could cut the noise out of one set of RCA's, but not out of the other... no matter what I did. In the end, the HU and amp should both be grounding the RCA cable, and if it's not, you might have blown the grounding circuit in either of the above. I opened my Kenwood HU a while back and found a burnt track on the circuitboard which led to the ground of the rear RCA outputs. I soldered in a piece of wire over the gap, but it didn't change a darn thing. I guess the HU is just stuffed. (changed amp and RCA's) Oh, and I tested my new wire with a multimeter, and it's fine. There's probably another cut somewhere else that I can't find. (no fuses for ground)

I'd guess that the box can take a DVC sub. If your sub is a DVC, then i'd assume that you should be using both sets of inputs.

Mine was missing one side of the mesh when I bought it, and it runs rich (I think). I get bad economy, but not much smoke at all. (no more than your average family car) Don't know what it's like on boost though, I certainly can't SEE any smoke. Maybe try resetting your ECU, so it can relearn? Dunno if that would help it learn the A/F ratio or anything, because once you're out of closed loop, the ECU switches to the fuel-maps. I'm hoping an SAFC can fix that for me and gain a little more oomph.