RANDY

yeah, I know the clips that you're talking about. OK... so you didn't sand it before the primer, or during primer coats??

Does the JVC HU make those noises on other stations or from CD? I mean.. is it the wireless bit, or do you have the very common "whine that you will never get rid of" problem that others have?

Turning the gain down helped mine a lot, but eventually I took the speakers off the amp and only ran the sub off it. I've changed almost everything while diagnosing. Read tons of sites, including www.caraudioaustralia.com and stuff like that. There are tons of fixes, but none of them work for me. Head unit is the last thing for me to try, but I CBF now that it's hooked up and working. As for battery terminals, the extra holes are always a good thing, and the gold-plated ones from Jaycar have always worked well for me. They sell one with extra terminal holes AND a voltage display built-in. I think that could come in handy one day! $30 I think?

I don't think so. Unplug it before you cut any wires to lengthen. There isn't much cable to play with as it is, and the stock harness is really quite rigid.

Heh.. what he said. It rather sounded like you found the CAS, which you don't really want to tool with. =-]

Oh good job!!! I did the shifter, ashtray, and coin-area in a glossy black... Looks pretty sweet. (MUCH better than the rough stock finish), but I didn't use primer. The paint I bought bonded with plastics, and it came out shiny but strong. It doesn't scratch or dent either. The only problem with that was the ashtray and shifter surround turned out two slightly different shades of black! I guess primer is really the go for getting matching colours. So... two things you might be able to help me with: 1) Could you put up the steps and times? e.g: first coat, wait 15 minutes, sand second coat, wait 15... Did you sand between primer coats? 2) How on earth do you gracefully get the pocket out of the drivers armrest? I replaced it once, and getting the broken one out was easily done by breaking it some more, and the new one slides and clips in easily... getting a good one out in one piece isn't so easy!

As mad082 says, that's vacuum. Boost is positive pressure, so anything less than 0 is vacuum. Also note that the guage is in millimeters of murcury mmHg, not psi or bar or cowdung. ;o) So... if you are cruising down a big hill and not accelerating, the engine is still turning quite quickly, and because of the compression in the cylinders, air is being pushed out the exhaust, but with the throttle closed it's hard for the motor to take any air in to match what is going out... subsequently, the vacuum in the manifold increases, and you get closer to -7mmHg (roughly 14psi) in vacuum. Same thing at idle or slow cruising, but not as exaggerated as the above scenario.

Hey if it means less diesel soot floating on the roads, then i'm happy some of my tax money went that way! ;op

Are you referring to the CAS?

I'll second the s2 with front lip. To me, it's the nicest looking stock Skyline. I just love it. Simple, but with plenty of air ducting. Although that other bar looks like a tidied version of the stocker... but it needs bigger ducting under the foggies.

heh.. the bolts through the middle of them are for compliance usually. They have to put the child restraint bolts in, and through the speaker is where they need to be!

My other model of Autowatch alarm is 30/60/90, set by the installer as you instruct.

If you do a quick search, it's been covered at least 8 times before that I can remember. It's more than likely some sprocket thingy on the heaterbox. Mine does it, heaps of R33's do it. Sucks eh? =-]

Dude! Is that your own car? What happened?? If so, sorry to see your loss! =-[ Not sure if you're negotiable, but if so, this is what i'd like and what prices i'm looking to spend: (+shipping to Sydney) $20 Boot lid carpet + clips $20 Sunvisors (pair) only if in top condition. ~$40 Dash surround $10 Inside door handle surrounds (if seperable and in vgc) $10 Mirror sails (inside from mirror, if no holes) $20 Top and bottom steering column surrounds +screws

Oh sweet! After that other guy got his car fully rebuilt for drifting, i've had nothing to follow and watch! Very nice work! If I could do this, I would. It would be like building a time machine, going back to '89 or later, and buying a brand new R32 GTR. Man... that would have to feel good!

Heh... well.. My R32 GTR mate installed a Jim Berry special, and there's something like 2mm of play before it completely clamps up! Even the dyno operators stalled it when they moved it from the driveway onto the rollers. It's MUCH more fussy than my heavy duty Daikin clutch. But anyway... back to the topic of accelerator pedals, not clutch pedals eh?

lol! Personally i'd swap it for a series 2... but that's just personal preference like a few others have suggested. Stuff all the bodykit mods and crap like that. If I had 10K spare, that I couldn't possibly put to better use anywhere else in life, i'd want to RB30DET my car. Get some quotes on the whole lot, plus PFC and tuning, and if it comes in around the money... do that. It'd need a front-mount and fuel pump... all the supporting mods basically, but you'd have a pretty torquey and quick car, that you could then bolt other mods onto later. (bigger turbo, bigger injectors, bigger AFM etc etc) Leave it looking stock wherever possible (apart from handling mods) and leave some faces looking shocked next time you run down the 1/4 mile or race-track! =-]

I bought a Jaycar 4ch 100wrms amp to replace my bigger amp, because it fits perfectly in there! Running one 12" sub in a box on the right-hand side of the boot. Well... the entire right-hand side of the boot really! =-/

I'd guess that the rubber stoppers are taller on one side than the other? The bonnet rubbers are adjustable by winding them in and out, but I didn't think the boot ones were? Well, if the cable was loose, than my manual method should have worked! (pulling up the side of the carpet, disconnecting the cable, then pulling on it by hand... or ajusting the cable tension) Dude! That's a sweet idea! I'm going to try this right now! (I don't have any issues with my boot though?) =-] Still, that's a great idea for anyone who got something stuck under the boot-arm. I used to get PC's stuck under mine, and you can't shift them over with a coat-hanger!

Yer... I think when they said "you need to give it more gas", they meant you had to get the revvs up a bit higher so you don't stall when the clutch grabs. It's harder to make a button clutch "slip" when you start moving. Definately get the cable sorted. Even disconnect it from the pedal, then have someone inspect the engine-bay side, while you pull on it. Disconnect the throttle body side and do the reverse. If that snaps while driving, you could be stranded somewhere. While the cable is off the throttle, check that you can open the throttle by hand, and that it's smooth. The spring is not progressive rate from memory. It should be pretty linear all the way through.

Yeah, mine has two from memory.. Thought perhaps there was another one I didn't know about! My Commodore had two, but one did up/down, the other did left/right. Still, sorry for the uninspiring answer... But unless someone can remember correctly, someone is going to have to turn a screw a couple of times to find out. Too much effort for me too! =-p =-]

Removing mine made the stock BOV more audible. I was quite convinced that it was a noise-reduction thing because of the size and placement of it. Now with a split dump/front pipe, the turbo is VERY loud! I can hear it spooling from 2000rpm with the windows up.

nps... A TV repair place would probably do it for you cheap enough. Perhaps even on the spot. good luck!

One of my general rules of thumb is to buy the newest year car you can afford. (combined with the lowest km car you can afford) If you're purely interested in performance, then i'd imagine that the r33's would have more up and go in the turbo flavours.

Like this: http://www.besthongkong.com/product_info.p...products_id=156 But they don't do them mounted to the assembly. Which part of yours is dead? If you can unsolder the LED part, it'd be fairly easy to replace the actual LED part.