Stick180

Does you Cig lighter work? Sounds like a popped fuse

Well, what a journey that was..

Looks like 31 and 24 are fed via the same IGN source, so its gotta be the fusible link, the relay or the fuse here:

Just out of interest, did you check the "ENG CONT" fuses in the engine bay fuse block? I had a very similar issue to this with my Link, and those 2 10a fuses were blown, so ecu was only getting 9~v, whilst having 14v supplied to the rest of the vehicle. Likely not the problem, but just thought id make the suggestion after having a similar problem.

Checked for vacuum leaks?

Mine looked exactly like this too. I found that if you didn't have them tightened to 100000 ft/lb, they must create some sort of arcing, and melt.

Personally, i'd be dropping the extra $400 for the Pro series. I believe (at least during their original conception) they were based off the Blue series but have evolved with apparent new valving tech etc etc. The BC's were super harsh ride wise, felt like the road was covered in potholes almost (this with damping at softest), but they did feel a bit more pointy initially through corners, i felt like there was considerably more understeer at turn in on tighter radius corners (but this is not really a like or like, considering the difference in wheel size, tyre choice, track temp etc etc)

This is completely different to their OG approach. I have the R&D/guinea pig set of MCA Blue coilovers in my stagea from about 9 years ago. Josh started with a rough R33 spec valving figure and spring rates (which was 10/8kg). We went for a whiteknuckled test drive through the Landsborough hinterland before he decided needed more valving and less spring. Eventually settled for 7/5kg springs and a bunch more valving (unsure of figures). I was running on some Tein Superwagon coilovers at the time and the difference was night and day. And after going for a ride with a fellow stagea chum who runs BC golds, i still believe the MCA Blues i have are still by far a better ride. As for Voston, as far as i am aware, that is their budget brand and nothing like the Pro series they offer now, or anything like the Blue/Red or Gold series back in the day

Just the last few update posts, for me at least

@Duncan Photo links no worky!

Blitz will fit, but requires cutting of either the reo, or knocking back the chassis rails like on the 260RS. Nistune does do boost control, but only upto 18psi (max res on OEM map sensor) and Nistune must be upgraded to FP2 software. I had limited success with this back in the day, but ultimately i went to a Link G4X.

Im running a 30A midi with my 460 after having the same issues. Running 10ga from the battery to a rear relay then 10ga from relay to pump via bulkheads. Have not had the issue since. The blade fuses cannot dissipate the heat, even with dielectric grease applied. Midi holder and fuses easily available from Cooldrive. In most cases, the amp rating on consumer based auto electrical components is peak draw, not continuous.

When you do look inside the mirrors, be sure to remove the sponge that is jammed in there. That is the culprit.

The RSV is 1520kg wet. The majority of the extra bulk in the RS4S and 260RS is in the driveline.

Its not a skyline wagon