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AutoTrust

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Everything posted by AutoTrust

  1. That's Unfortunate, could have helped if in Melb. free bump
  2. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...&threadid=27204 ...........Just trying to help, I know there not in Sydney
  3. For me it was so if in an emergency my wife could drive it too. And its very hard to find a 4door manual. I prefer 4doors.
  4. The ECU in my car was modded in japan, I just got lucky I suppose. I'm focussing on getting my impul body kit fitted, then boost controller then interior etc. etc. and hopefully without the missus noticing too much!! eventually i would like a manual conversion cos autos are scary sideways!!
  5. Have you checked your flux capacitors? or perhaps the warp power relays? .................. Sorry about that! My missus had the same problem in her lancer and it ended up being the amp itself.I moved it back to the original position and it made no difference. i then used the amp on low pass for the sub and the noise was gone, seems to be a filtering problem in the amp. try another amp
  6. I read that other thread and now my head hurts! What happened was I was complaining to the boys at J-spec about my computer not letting me run increased boost, Craig said here try this it's a modified Ecu out of my last car, I then pulled the covers off and looked around inside to find an extra circuit board and EPROM ..very interesting. Then i removed the standard auto ECU from my auto 33 and looked inside to find it had an extra chip when compared to a standard manual ecu. I then found some pin out info on the r33 and found that the auto uses more pins, that in turn run to the other side of the car to the auto control unit.........It was a little daunting but I just plugged the modded manual ecu in and drove the sucker around the block... all seemed well. then on my way home i pulled up occasionally and dialled the boost up a notch or two to find that it went faster and faster without me eating steering wheel!! (no fuel cut). Now the only problem i have is that the boost leaks off down to 0.5. So now i need the money for an electronic boost controller. (any body need an alarm)?!!! As for the 34 ... keep us all posted skylineakt hope you have a win with the e-manage
  7. 666DAN, you say the PFC can't be used in an auto can you tell me why?I just explained, I am running a Manual ECU in my auto and am having no problems, the auto has its own computer, the two talk to each other to limit the revs between gears and won"t allow any increase in boost over factory. Im sure that there is more to it than that, but no one i have talked to about it in a 12 month period has had anything more to say than put a 5 speed in it or you can't do it. ... There is no real difference between PFC and a standard manual ECU except the obvious ability to customise settings. Mind you my experience extends to 33's not 34's.
  8. Strutto, has anyone actually proved that the manual PFC is no good in an auto? I am running a modified manual ECU in my auto and am able to increase the boost to 1bar, although it wont hold until i fit an electronic boost controller. It also changes hard between gears and generally goes better with no real difference in fuel consumption. I have had no adverse effects except for occasional stalling but that was the case with the standard ECU.
  9. Sorry your car was damaged Max, when your car door is repaired remove the door locks. You can wire a back-up system to allow the doors to be opened even if the battery goes flat and I can fit a viper paging system if you are interested. Mabe you should investegate fitting a capsicum spray system, that way when your key ring goes off and you just have to look for the guys near your car writhing on the ground in agony, too blind to see you kicking the poo out of them!........................... Just thinking out loud. Good luck with your repairs.
  10. Sweet ride dude, the wiring under your seat is for a seatbelt warning light system that is redundant when modified during compliance, just tuck it up out of the way. And those rims are yummy, so no gutter dorifto for you!
  11. I am not the best person to answer this queston as I have not had a dyno run with my skyline yet and am south east, I can however recommend Hypertech Autosports 7 Trade Place Vermont VIC 3133 (03) 9874 8866 Ask for Arnold
  12. Sparky by trade, now subbying to QuikTrak and specialising in alarm installs mainly on jap imports. Can't wait for the import industry to pick up again, only a matter of weeks by the look of things
  13. Hippy - I just went out to my car and tried everything and the shift lock works when the key is out, dosen't work when on acc, works on ign unless foot brake is applied. so you'd be ok if the potential theif didn't remove your key barrell. A simple slide hammer would take care of that, but how paranoid are you? I personally am incredibly paranoid! I even removed my limited edition Blitz Black light boost gauge when my car is parked in the city!! I have a Quik Trak system and a viper remote start alarm and i am upgrading to a paging system soon for peace of mind. I also have a 14 piece Garage Impul body kit to be fitted soon and feel i won't be able to park it anywhere except mabe my garage! and that is full of crap!-- sorry for crapping on, but my worst nightmare is theft and vandalism, I always am very careful about where i park my car and find myself checking on it constantly whenever i'm out. It can take 5 minutes for a phone call from the QRC (quiktrak response centre) and lots can happen in 5 min. Mabe a stealth approach is the best option for your car and don't crank the doof doof near where you will park your car. Mind you it's fun to see people look over their shoulder. It takes all sorts of assholes to make the world go round, chances are if you're moderately sensible about how you display your car and it's goodies you will be ok.
  14. a dyno tune is cheaper than coils, octane booster doesn't make your coils better.
  15. Get a dyno tune, and run BP Ultimate or Mobil 9000
  16. Dave- Don't get me wrong, I had troubles too, fact is that the problems were with Vic Roads and the compliance workshop and the compliance holder. And believe me or not, J-spec does have the greatest range of cars available to them and very strong relationships with buyers in Japan. I am very careful about what and who I endorse and advise anyone reading this or other forums to be careful about how they interperate the information they read. Respect
  17. The 32's started in may '89 and carried through to '93 and prices range from $7,500 to about $12,000 if you can wait to may for 15yo, Or from $11,000 to about $16,000 for a grade 4 which is the minimum requirement under the SEVS scheme (dead stock cars). Drop Craig a line at Imports@j-spec.com.au for a more detailed explanation. Enjoy your test drives!
  18. You should buy a car in japan before the end of this year to avoid the increase in price due to the increase in demand created by the 15 yo rule. And i would STRONGLY recommend using J-spec imports as they have the best contacts in japan with private sellers and auction houses. The 32 is a better option if you want a car that has modifications as cars less than 15 years of age must be completely standard, no mags no exhaust nothing!
  19. Go FUCHS yourself, I did and I like it, 5W50 Titan super Syn. Below budget and sounds like something you'd like to do with Jennifer Garner!
  20. Buster, congrats on cracking 11's man. how about some specs on your rocket for the boys down south? all I can see is an avatar sporting a sweet 33, what's inside?
  21. If i drive on my local freeway my hicas light illuminates if i don't change lanes. This problem only started when I fitted an aftermarket boss and momo wheel. The sensor on the steering column locates differently and is the cause in my case, but i'm too lazy to fix it. i also have 8" subs in the parcel that required the hicas module to be shoved over a little but this has not caused problems for me.
  22. That really sucks, thanks for sharing. I have eaten an air-bag sandwich in my astra and I must say that I didn't much like it.
  23. Add yourself to the J-spec mailing list, this will give you more information about what's out there. I prefer 33's to 32's but then again i prefer 4 doors, so go figure. Also you can import a car cheaper than buying it locally or get a better car for your budget, mind you patience is the key word when importing. 32 gtr is my recommendation mmmmmmm RB26DETT
  24. Another interesting point is that japanese fuel is better octane than any aussie fuel, so an octane booster may fix the problem but if it comes back next tank of fuel then altering the timing, as has been suggested, would be a better long term solution.
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