Legionnaire

Yep, I'll post a couple of pics later. Hey _Wing_, did you find any additional info on your initial question, or you found a workaround?

Thanks for info, what MY GTR is your m/cyl off of? As far as I know reconditioning doesn't involve prop. valve rebuilding, 'cause there's basically nothing to rebuild. Proportioning used in 300ZX BMC's is very different to skylines though, they're more rear biased. E.g. 1990 Australian and European models, both with 15/16" and 1 1/16" BMC have 35kgf (498psi) x 0.4 bias, 94-96 models which had 1" BMC have it reduced to 25kgf (356psi) x 0.4, which is still higher than R32 skyline.

Epic thread bump, I know, but I'm doing brake upgrade currently, was educating myself about factory proportioning and found this great thread... not so much info though. Info on S13, S14, S15, Z32 is extremely easy to find, but I couldn't find any info whatsoever concerning R-chassis except the info posted by djr81. So any info about proportioning on R32, 33, 34 is appreciated, BM44, BM50, BM57. Please specify if the m/cyl is intended for ABS or not.

I fitted 16" rims over GTT brakes. Wheels turned freely, but there was FA clearence between caliper and rim, like 2mm, so I decided to go back to 17" wheels.

You can always pull ABS fuse and see if there's any noticable difference before doing any parts elimination.

Higher as in you need to apply less pressure to the pedal to achieve same deceleration as before, so you might need to adjust your braking habits a bit. Whether or not will nissan love it I'm not sure, it's your car so you may ask her how she likes 15/16 BMC after installation, but being R34 she may be offended by you throwing R33 parts at her.

It will "work", but yours has 1 inch bore, R33 GTSt has 15/16 inch, giving longer pedal travel and higher line pressures.

Maybe it has something to do with increased weight transfer? By increasing front rotor size you're making fronts do more job than before, so weight transfer under brakes is now increased compared to 280mm factory brakes, front axle receives more weight now, leaving less load for the rears, so the same rear brake torque with now reduced load (i.e. grip) tends to lock up earlier than before. How good is your suspension, shocks in particular? Or, as per above poster's experience, you have higher COF pads on the rear axle? Or crappier rear tyres that wouldn't grip? Or wheel alignment, namely excessive rear camber? There are many reasons why you could've gotten undesirable effect after brake upgrade that have nothing to do with brakes themselves.

True, but when I was rebuilding mine, one caliper had two torn dust boots, and road dirt, pad dust, residual brake fluid, water and whatever else got in there formed nasty layer of crap over the sides of two pistons that prevented pistons from entering all the way back into their bores, and it was very hard to get rid of without making a scratch on anodised surface.

I've seen sumitomo calipers sitting over variety of rotor sizes using spacers. The most common conversion is 280->324 rotor for obvious reasons, but there are more options out there. Whether they're worth doing is debatable, but since you asked about different options and the biggest possible rotor, here goes: - There are adapters for 330x32mm rotors, front rotors off V36 skyline/skyline crossover are probably the cheapest option in that size, but you can use two-piece rotors with 332x32 brembo or stoptech friction rings with custom hats. - Then there are adapters intended for 334x30mm rotors off a lexus GS. Rotor requires slight modifications. - Adapters for 340mm rotors I saw once were a one-off item, so worth mentioning only because it can be done. - UAS had an adapter kit to use with 343mm two-piece rotors, but it's apparently no longer available - There are kits that use 345x32mm rotor off a Merc ML55 AMG, see attached pic. Silvias had 280x30 front brakes from factory, just like the ones you bought, but with steel calipers, so the pic is relevant. Rotors are cheap but have to be modified. - The biggest kit I've ever seen was R34 Gtt caliper (310x30mm factory size, pad shape same as yours) sitting over V36 skyline sport 355x32mm rotor, see second and third attached pics For rears there are spacers for GTR34 322 rotors, V36 330mm and 350mm rotors

Rebuild kit includes pistions, internal seals, dust boots and bleerer caps, right? If so, we can try to figure out part numbers for separate parts if we want to just replace say torn dust boots. P/N's I found so far: bleeder screws #05.2812.13 bleeder rubber caps #05.1502.20 or #105.1502.20 The above two can be found combined. E.g. I have a nice box with two M10x1 bleeder screws and two caps lying in front of me. #98.8249.20. They are also known and nissan p/n 41129-12U25, audi p/n 8A0 615 273,renault p/n 77 01 209 424 Pressure seals, we need four 38mm, four 40mm and four 44mm seals per car, or 2 x 38mm and 2 x 44mm per one front caliper and 2 x 40mm per one rear Some catalogues say that the p/n's below are for 8 seals, no idea why would brembo offer them in 8-piece packs. If the info is incorrect, please post here, 'cause 8-packs are ridiculously priced. Other catalogs say these p/n's are per single seal, and pricing is therefore much more reasonable. "Standard" pressure seals 38mm seal #105.5955.57 40mm seal #105.5955.58 44mm seal #105.5955.60 "Anti-knockback" presure seals - NFI what's the difference betw. these and the ones above 38mm seal #105.7224.45 40mm seal #105.7224.46 44mm seal #105.7224.48 Dust boots 38mm #20.4872.45 40mm #20.4872.46 44mm #20.4872.48 P/N's for pistons themselves I'm trying to find out currently

Thanks for the numbers, Scott

Can you please post brembo P/N printed on the dust boots? Should read 20.4872.xx

True, more like a workaround, but real issue was lying outside Christian's area of responsibility, so he's done what he could to make forum work.

PranK has

Yes, Christian has fixed it. Thanks again, Christian!

They're not too bad. You can always buy some 280-324mm adapters and use 33/34 GTR rotors later on - plenty of info about it here.

Better do it the other way around. 32R front brakes are worth looking for, as they've 296mm x 32mm thick rotor. Rear brakes are identical.

Either that or you can drill out and tap caliper bolt holes. The rears should bolt up.

What NA is it? I have no info on 20GT's, but RWD 25GT's have M14 front caliper holes, so R32 brakes won't "bolt right on" without some drilling or some helicoil action, as they have M12 bolts. If it's 4wd, both GTSt or GTR brakes will bolt right on. Regarding BMC - you should really check what's your current BMC, it'd have either BMxx designation, where xx are digits, or diameter in inches cast on the body. You'll need no less than 15/16 BMC (also known as BM44) for 4-pot front and 2-pot rear sumitomos, Better feeling with 1" BMC (aka BM50), R34 GTT has it from factory. 7/8 (what is it, BM38?) is too small, 1 1/16 (BM57) is too big for sumitomos IMO.

1) The line that goes from factory solenoid to AFM pipe can stay, the factory solenoid, when unplugged, is shut anyway. Or you can shut it off. Or use it on atmo venting port of your new aftermarket BC solenoid - it reduces solenoid duty cycle. 2)Unplug it, otherwise you'd have two devices working in competition with each other and you have no control over one of them (factory one). 3)You can use this source, it's as good as any, but be aware of the fact that due to piping and IC core losses turbo will generate pressure that is 2-3 psi higher than you see at the spot marked on the attached pic. But the spot you marked has a benefit of giving you same exact boost reading your engine is seeing as opposed to outlet on comp cover.

Initially I quoted a massive piece of code, but tags inside that piece interfered with forum engine big time, so I had to remove the post altoghether. So the idea is that somebody should check their closing tags better, not all browsers automatically close open tags, and not many of those that do do so properly. In the module <div id="google_ads_div_SAU_ATF_728_ad_container"> The first ad insert is commented, like this <script type="text/javascript"><!-- google_ad_client = "ca-pub-8812745528911697"; /* Internal Page Top */ google_ad_slot = "9358753284"; google_ad_width = 728; google_ad_height = 90; //--></script> but is written properly. The second ad inserting script <script src="http://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/show_ads.js" type="text/javascript"> _WTF? Something's missing here!_ </div> has no closing </SCRIPT> tag Should be adjusted to look like <script src="http://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/show_ads.js" type="text/javascript"></script> </div> That basically basically fixes everything. For me anyway. Regards

Hey there Admins

Here is an idea - buy a GTX2867 and put it into factory rear housing. Should be nearly bolt-on installation, possibe to be done with internal wastegate, stealthy, no need to change dump pupe and will easily give you nice and snappy 260-280kw I have done some calcs. This turbo is going to be great on nearly factory RB25. Tune it up to whatever limit you'll hit first, be it injectors or AFM, and replace limiting parts later.

So, I have an update. First of all, for those, who don't see username and password boxes, fear not, it's easily fixable, or I'd say, there is a workaround. It's pretty easy if you have IE8, and very wasy if you have Opera. I don't use other browsers, so don't know if there is an easy fix for Chrome, Firefox, etc. Instructions for IE8 1. Start IE8, press F12, the Developer Tools window will appear. In this window click File, click Customize Internet Explorer View Source, select Notepad, close Developer Tools window. 2. Load SAU Sign In page with no input boxes. 3. Right-click and select View Source, notepad window with the current page (SAU Sign In) source code will appear. 4. Find and delete the following part <!-- SAU_ATF_728 --> <script type='text/javascript'> GA_googleFillSlot("SAU_ATF_728"); </script> 5. In notepad File - Save As, call the file somehow, e.g. SignIn. Make sure you assign .htm file extension to the file you're saving. Save at, say, Desktop, for convenience. 6. In IE do File - Open File (or press Ctrl+O) and select the file you just saved. Enjoy proper Login form, with all necessary Username and Password fields as well as tickboxes. In opera it's even easier - you open sign-in page, press Ctrl+U, delete the above piece of code right away and press "Apply changes". The interesting thing to notice - the line just above the script, which looks like this <div style="width: 728px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px;"> is responsible for "narrow" appearance of the board web forms. The same method works if you want to bring back full editor form. Just remember - you have to get rid of that piece of code EVERY TIME you don't see input box for login or topic creation form, because every time you click on a link or a button, you basically generate a request for loading a new web page, so you will receive a web page freshly generated by server. Until the problem is solved on the hosting server, it will include that piece of code every time. To the administrators What's with that script anyway? What does it do and why does it suppress web form generation? And what's with the "style="width: 728px;" piece right after "style="width:100%" code?