Legionnaire

Tested in different PC, vista ultimate, fully updated, IE9 - still no luck, could not even log onto forums, there was just no input fields for login and password.

Forgot to add - they are monobloc calipers. Piston area of the front caliper is huge - 61.2 sq. cm. and might work okay on skylines only with 1 1/16" BMC. Rear pad has dimensions similar to brembo A/C/F family pad. Does anybody know if there's such thing as 1 1/8 BMC" on a nissan?

for everyone's info. w204 C63 AMG, 6 pot front brembo N-family caliper, wide annulus pad, trailing, intended to sit over 360x36mm rotor, piston sizes (34+36+38)x2 mm, 4 pot rear brembo, looks somewhat similar to P-family caliper but takes pad of different shape, trailing, rides on 330x26mm rotor, piston sizes (28+30)x2 mm

GTX3017R 0.82 IWG siemens 650cc deatschwerks DW300, but walbro will do Z32 AFM Nistune Decent clutch Bit the pod filter and plumb back BOV Problem solved.

Dust boots - are they saying 20.4872.40 and 20.4872.42? MrStabby, thanks for the info.

I faced that problem before - changed pads from TRW/Lucas to some other pad, don't remember which one exactly. Turned out the new pad material that was supposed to form transfer layer on rotors was just incompatimbe with the material that had been previously laid by Lucas pads - new pads wouldn't make new layer no matter how long I tried to bed them in. Later I read about similar issue in internet and found out that due to incompatibility of pad material there's no chance of making them work without rotor grinding or sanding. I CBF sanding rotors myself back then, so just had them regroung by a workshop. If i'm not mistaken it is Stoptech who recommends Hawk 9012 compound for on-car rotor grinding. Maybe that's the go, but paying full race pad price just for occasional ridding the rotors of old pad material doesn't sound like well spent money to me. BMW guys suggest swapping both pads AND rotors that were bedded in together before a track day. This solution allows some savings of not only race pads, bit also expensive 2-piece floating rotors. Plain cast-iron rotors and sporty pads for street, race pads and floating rotors for track. With small diameter BMC, no ABS and relatively large rotors looks like you need a pad with moderate coefficient of friction and good low-temp performance. Maybe something from EBC range would be ok, like yellowstuff. They are not super-dooper pad, but supposed to be inexpensive. But they really tend to wear out fast. Or maybe PFC Z-rated pads (has .10 at the end of pad p/n) - no issues with material incompatibility and good cold friction u's.

Roy, I apologize, I thought you were talking OEM calipers there... That varying part in brembo p/n is "kit progressive number" as per brembo p/n reading key. Since it's a kit, this "progressive number" probably varies because of different caliper brackets required for different cars. But I agree, it could also mean different piston diameters. I was writing about OEM audi/lambo caliper, which is a classic G-family caliper and has 28 and 32mm pistons. AMG 8 piston caliper (w211 E55, w220 S600, etc) is some kind of modified G-family caliper and has different piston diameters, four of them are 30mm, the other four I'm having hard time finding info about. But all the info I've seen so far suggests that brembo 8 piston calipers have a combination of 28, 30 or 32mm pistons. The easiest and most reliable method of telling brembo piston diameter I've discovered so far (for street calipers at least) is by reading dust boot p/n. But have never seen 46 or 48 mm brembo pistons, so have no idea what are dust boots' p/n's for those. Also sorry fot thread jacking, my p/n interface here refuses to work for whatever reason. What are people's opinions about PFC 01 compound for mixed street/track duty? Too racey a pad, just like PFC 06 or a bit more street friendly? What about their Z-rated compound for street? MrStabby, what do you mean by EBC gold - is it EBC yellow or EBC orange? Keen to hear your feedback about them on track and street.

Roy, Range rovers never had 8 piston calipers from factory... 6 piston max. Front brakes off Audi RS4 B7, RS5, RS6 C5, R8 and Gallardo are identical. They are equipped with Brembo G-family 8 piston calipers, take 4 pads per caliper and have (28+32)x4 mm pistons, which gives total piston area of 56.8 sq.cm., slightly larger than 55.54sq.cm commonly used B-family 4 piston brembos with (40+44)x2 pistons. Intended to run on 360 to 380mm rotor 32 to 34mm thick and swept pad height of 61.5 mm (tall pad). So other than some difficulties with availability of wide annulus rotors it's gonna be fine.

Ditto. GTR shocks for the front, GTS-t for the rear. Apparently front GTS-t shocks can be installed, but they'll be almost bottomed out as they're longer than GTR shocks.

Mine broke down at 60-65 kkm, some may live up to 100 000. Started misfiring under boost, then at lighter loads, then sometimes even refused to fire at idle and obviously missed at cold starts (read bore wash). I changed plugs, that didn't help. Checked coilpack wiring - all good. I picked a set of used coils from my previous engine, used to have 25DE before engine swap, and replaced failing coil. That hepled until next coil started to fail - in less than 1000 km after the first one. Since then I replaced three more coils, and although everything's working fine now, I'm thinking about allocating some money to replace all coils with new ones, just haven't decided what to choose yet - splitfires or a set of new OEMs.

Yep, I think you should just replace them. Even if you current issues aren't caused by coilpacks, they will eventually die, every RB25 Neo suffers this problem sooner or later, so you won't be wasting your money anyway, you'll just be acting proactively.

Pull it down and slightly to the side. You'll see it coming off.

You sealed them with tape?

While we're at it - if there's a choice between splitfires and new stock coils, what should one choose? Is there anything to be said for splitfires being better than factory coils, i.e. stronger spark or something like that? Also I thought it'd be a good idea to add nissan part numbers for factory coils. Application: R34 RB25DE and RB25DET Coil without rubber boot 22433-AA100 or -AA101 Coil with rubber boot 22448-AA100 or -AA101 Rubber boot alone, just in case Never seen them torn myself 22465-59S00

Sounds like coils are half-dead, mine did almost the same thing - wouldn't rev past 5k rpm. Sonded like V10 though. If you have a friend with known good ones, try to borrow a couple and swap them one or two at a time to find out if it's coils or not and exactly what coil is dead. Your taping may have worsen temperature conditions the coils have to work in, causing heat buildup inside. It behaves differently in different acceleration modes because resistance of spark gap between plug electordes increases with engine load.

I may say something unusual here, but I think your choice should not be based solely on availability of either ECU. Are you familiar with electronics, programming and anything like that? Do you like to fiddle with parts and set things up yourself or prefer the work to be done for you by a tuner/workshop? If you're DIY-minded guy, I'd say you should pick Z32 ECU, 'cause it's been around and been played with for a very long time, is much better investigated, and with some work and research you can add different features to it. If you prefer driving your car more then playing with stuff, then you're better off with R32 one.

Proper antilag adds fuel to keep turbo at whatever boost you want it to. It's an afterburner basically, and is often accompanied by either auxiliary air intake device, kinda like IAC valve, or means to keep revs down with partly open throttle when AAC is not allowed, i.e. rotational idle. It also allows smooth transition from antilag operation (retarded timing and lots of fuel) to a normal engine operation and provides necessary means for engine cooldown after its use, either by additional fuel or by pumping air through the engine (cuts one or more injectors for several engine cycles). Proper launch control is even more complicated, it may include antilag, and bases its operation on speed sensors and tries to supress wheelspin (that's advanced, closed-loop launch control), or has preprogrammed rev limiter(-s), fuelling/ignition, BC solenoid duties and box shift points for given set of conditions, like tires, vehicle weight distribution, ambient temperature, etc and is established during thorough testing, optimised for maximum acceleration in that particular conditions. The device we're discussing here is much more simple, it's a piggyback that fools ECU, delaying or modifying CAS information en route to ECU so that ignition and injection parameters calculated by ECU are applied to the engine later than they normally should, so main engine management events are retarded. This usually results in hotter EGTs, and that's why turbo gets spooled. Side effects are overheated exhaust valves and in extreme cases head, exhaust manifold, turbine wheel and housing, good hammering on turbo bearings, inefficient fuel consumption. Not sure how exactly CAS+AFM driven systems respont to devices like this one, somebody with Nistune should probably take logs and see what's going on there. Maybe it will give a clue as to why it doesn't work so well/work at all with SII CAS.

Same issues, observed on XP SP3 with IE8 and Opera 9.26 and on fully updated Vista with IE and Opera 10.something. 1. Narrow forum forms, they MAY be wide if I press "stop loading" button before page is fully loaded, so I think forum engine applies narrowing in the late stages of loading process. 2. Cannot use full reply editor - shows no input text field. Fast reply works properly. 3. Cannot use edit button - no fast edit is shown and with full edit the above issue happens. 4. PMs are working for me. But in "viewing profile" form when I'm trying to switch between "about me", "topics", "posts" tabs, the green Loading tab appears and then a pop-up window saying "Action failed" appears. 5. Can not use sign-in form, no login and password fields are displayed. The issue appeared in the middle of the last week I think. A fix would be nice. Or an Advice Petros.

can't edit posts for some reason... read "were installing"

Dude, when you were installed senders for your gauges, did you take something apart? E.g. intake piping? Sounds like good old vacuum/boost leak to me. You may have forgotten to put back some small hoses or forgotten to tighten some of intake hose clamps.

Unfortunately max pressure of 20 psi is not enough. Knowing/finding out compressor origin, blade count and inducer/exducer measurements would be a good starting point to give a basic idea about its flow capabilities and max hp, the same can be said for turbine stage. No one is talking you into spending big ₤₤ on turbo, but people have seen 1 bar @ 3700rpm with GT3076R (e.g. Lithium, The Mafia), which is also capable of 20 psi, but as a bouns it will produce significantly more HP. On the other hand - if you're happy with your purchase and enjoying the car then none of the above really matters, does it?

It's hard to say whether that kind of performance is good or bad 'cause you've given us very little info about the highflow unit to base our judgement on. But standard turbo was designed around minimal lag concept - nylon compressor, ceramic turbo - so it's nearly impossible to even come close to it in terms of lag (or lack thereof). Nissan has done their homework with turbo matching, so the only question is how much more power you'll be able to squeeze out of the new turbo and if the new power level justifies newly introduced lag.

That's exactly right, I'd expect exhaust valves to let go first, or maybe seize in their guides, and also think an epic exh. manifold meltdown could have been observed... or maybe head warpage

Yep, that's basically how soft limiters work - they pull some timing so that engine wont either gain or loose revs. That's the way some OEMs used to do it. But they also trimmed fuelling accordingly in order to smooth out normal-to-limiter transitions, avoid backfiring and keep engine temperatures and emissions in check, which the above device is cetainly uncapable of doing.

did your mate change ignition coils as a part of his 100kkm service? R34 RB25 Neo coils are known to start dying at just about this milage. And they don't usually cease working completely, they may work okay under very light loads, at idle etc, but start causing missfires under heavier loads, i.e. on boost. It usually feels like soft rev limiter has been hit, it also sounds funny. And vibrates.