Cubes

Unless you have aftermarket management at 150rwkw it should never be running so lean in the top end. For example... Mine used to start off as yours did, high 13's then slowly dip down to flat 13 then drop sub 12's at high rpm. Yours holding an almost flat line is an indication that the fuel pump is 'close' to failing. It should drop much much richer at high rpm which its not.

Your afr's WERE unsafe as they should not have been that lean at that power level. Your fuel pump was failing. Its quite possible over the last few months it has got lazier resulting in even leaner AFR's. Your Tuner should have suggested to replace your fuel pump ASAP or prepare for a dead motor within the coming months!!!!!. As a comparison. ~4-5years ago I had mine run up on the dyno with 12.5psi. It made 152rwkw and the afr's were around 12-12.2. I was told the fuel pump is dying and I should replace it asap. So I did. AFR's instantly dipped in to the 10's, I pushed boost up to 1bar, dialed in another 2 degree's ignition advance and the car ran like that for some years before getting tired of the rb20 and dropping in the rb30. EDIT: Yes.. 5years ago and it was run in 3rd.

Gary, The bloke is my tuner. He's done a few of them before and knows they are a big job. BUT thats the price he's given me. No doubt others would not receive that price. He removes the diff and all the associated bits. Gets an oxy on to the old bushes and wacks them out (apparently much quicker doing it this way than removing the old via a press). He then wacks the subframe in to a press and presses in the new bushes. He did say its a 1/2 to 3/4 day job.

Sounds like it has a few non-related issues. Have you pushed boost up without throwing it on a dyno to check afr's and ign is all ok? Detonation kills pistons and bearings. Stuffed bearings = low oil pressure.

Mine have stopped leaking. On the dyno under power the left wheel 'almost' touches the front of the guard. :S Driving it on the road second and sometimes third steers the car. Good thing they are being done soon.

You have a few choices... 1. Use your pumpkin, center, half shafts and axles. Grab the crown and pinion from the Q45 lsd and drop them in to yours. You'll have to get the backlash etc setup so thats more $$. 2. Use the Q45 Pumpkin, q45 half shafts with a set of GTR axles. Grab the whole pumpkin (from memory they run the same front pumpkin mounts as the R33) and bolt it in with a set of GTR axles and hubs for stronger arse end. Still more $$ but not wasted on setting up backlash but rather a set of nice fat splines. 3. Use the Q45 Pumpkin with your existing Axles and half shafts. Grab the whole pumpkin, rip the center out, pull it apart and drop in the guts from your origional lsd (viscus hub, spider gears etc) and bolt it together and not have to worry about setting up the backlash as you haven't played with swapping the actual centers. 'Shouldn't' cost you any more than the cost of the q45 pumpkin. Did you follow that last one? Not sure if I was too clear. The idea of the last one is you need to swap the spider gears and vlsd hub around as the q45/gtr's run a bigger more spliney half shaft. Using your origional spider gears and viscus hub you can simply slide in your existing 5 bolt half shafts Obviously with the usual R200 swaps you'll have to use the backplate off your existing diff. You'll also have to double check the front mounts. I'm certian they looked the same as the 33 pumpkin. Thats if you want to retain the vlsd. It should still be in fairly good nick.

Spoolup, Fiddled with cam timing yet?

I wouldn't be concerned. Get some decent boost in to it. A mate with a GT35r .82 on his RB30DET made 183rwkw on 8psi. Pushed 15psi and it made ~260rwkw and 17psi 270rwkw but thats where it ends due to a 2.75" exhaust that narrows to a 2.5" muffler. :S

The S13 180 SR20DET's manuals ran with 3.9's. 47 teeth ring gear, 12 teeth pinion. The Q45 Infinity R200 VLSD runs a 3.7 ratio. Whats also interesting is the Q45 run the same larger GTR 31spline GTR 6 bolt (1x6) axles.

Ragazza's (spelling) Auto elec on South road St. Marys. The bloke loves these cars, used to own one him self. He sorted my headlight issue when I first bought mine for a reasonable price.

Ring Motor Reg at Regency park. I have in the past and any form of adjustable boost control is illegal. Thats what I was told.......... So............ Buy an aftermarket actuator for ~$120 set on the boost level you wish to run. 7, 10, 12 ,15, 17 ...........

My thoughts also.. However it 'may' be a good thing if the pressure within the scroll is blowing open the flap (boost drop), but bad if the wastegate is too small to pass the requried gas as not to creep boost.

is that spelt correctly? Linky no worky.

Nope. ----- There's a few RB30's floating around now that rev plenty hard. If you want a hard reving rb26 you have to do the same mods as you do to an rb30. r33racer rb25/30 I think his alias is... Plenum, exhaust manifold, ext gate, 256 tomei cams and it full spool in the mid 3000's makes power to 8500rpm no problems. 370rwkw I believe it ended up making. Then there's Bu5ters and a string of VL's. An RB30 is a hell of a lot cheaper to build than a stroked Rb26. How many rev's do you want and how often do you want to rebuilt it? Remember back to the Gibson motorsport bathurst days... They rev limited their Rb26 to 7000rpm for a damn good reason. Longevity. You also must remember large turbo's need cubes to get them going hard in the lower (less load) gears. Not much fun if you have to wait until the end of second until things start really happening.

Being a 3ltr I'd imagine the rb25 nissan spec ignition timing would be out. Being essentially a stroked rb25 the piston speed is greater; I would have thought the 3ltr would require just that little more ignition to achieve peak combustion pressures where they are supposed to be? Or maybe it doesn't work like that? :S

I'm not sure how spot on the dyno's wideband is but last time she was on the dyno I noticed idle and cruise was sitting on 14.2:1 with the o2 sensor enabled. This is running the pfc obviously.

There's a better place to get bits fixed. Jazza knows. Petroject I think it was? :S Not sure.

I've got mine. Thanks The darn paint came off in my hands so I grabbed some 2000 wet/dry sanded them back and gave them a coat of black. Good as new. Damn hard adjusting those nozles, will have another go tomorrow. :S

Lag caused by a boost controller not releasing the pressure between the boostcontroller and actuator cannot be mistaken. As you grab the next gear boost comes on really really slowly and smoothly. It sucks.

Mine has the pin hole directly opposite the nipple that feeds the wastegate actuator, so smack in the middle. If its too high the bolts thread will block the hole and yes.. You could see lag on gear changes. Solder up the hole and redrill.

I think the recent change in design has stuffed it. My old turbotech works flawlessly, I've had it on mine and another rb30det gt35r .82 ext. gate and it works 100% perfect.

Well that’s way too close to home. The usual question.. Was it alarmed/immobilised? Just to get an idea of how well versed these thieves are.

Its the cars setup. Look at the diff, bushes, camber and tyre quality and how worn the tyres are.. Tyres get hell slippery as they approach 3/4 worn. There's many out there with double the power some of you blokes are making yet have no issues hooking up through second.

Depends on how well setup the car is... 270rwkw with decent tyres, a good diff and correct alignment a set of decent 245+'s should hold on 'only just' in second gear. Try on a slight corner and there's no chance. It also depends on the power delivery, if its a nothing then everything style turbo then yes traction is going to be an issue.

Is this still going 2 odd months later. :S Good to year its all going well though