Cubes

I'm sure we can come to an arangement. I believe you have just finished your brew. So a shortage of beers during the job won't be a problem. ----------- It shall be interesting how the bushes increase NVH, especially as the R32 GTST diff's are solid mounted not bush mounted like the GTR's and R33's+

My Noltec subframe bushes are in. They can be had from Unique Autosports for ~$190. Here's how I went about it. In short the process of removal: Wheels Callipers and sat them on a box so they don't hang Sway Bar (makes life easier) Tail shaft Exhaust cat back Removed hicas lines from rear steer rack and tucked them out of the way Disconnect Hand brake lines The hicas wiring ran under the hand brake line, unplugged and replugged so it ran over the top Diff (easy as, simply ran 2 ropes around under neath it (front and rear) attaching to the subframe and secured to my club lock on the other end, dropped the jack then let the ropes down slowly so it lowered the diff) Placed a car jack (scissor) under each side of the subframe Removed bolts and slowly let the subframe down. Once it was at a reasonable hight I lifted each edge, kicked the jack out and placed the subframe back down Dragged the subframe out and argggg... now for the bush removal..... ---- Bush removal I didn't have enough material on hand to make a solid support for the subframe when pushing bushes out. The 2 rear bushes are really easy as they are just simple rubber bushes. The 2 front silicon filled bushes are a pain in the arse as they have 3 parts that need to be cut and then pushed out in succession. I tried cutting all the way through with one but the bush just didn't budge. I had to remove each ring in succession. It was quite easy simply drilling out the old rubber bush then using a hack saw to cut 2 small cuts completely through the metal roughly a cm apart. Then hit it with a suitable cold chisel and the metal simply peels back, roughly 3/4 the way down the bush starts to push out. Doing it this way they take roughly 1hr maybe a little more to remove all 4 bushes. ---- Bush Install The 2 front bushes pressed in quickly and easily. The rear 2 I was unable to get the press in without removing all the control arms etc so I grabbed a piece of 3" exhaust pipe, cut it down and smacked the sh*t out of it with a small sledgy. They went in fairly quickly to my surprise. Towards the end of the second the pipe began to fatigue and crush quickly with each hit. Bolt the diff in to the subframe before putting it back in to the car, use a trolley jack under the diff, 2 sizzor jacks under each side of the subframe and slowly raise the subframe. Easy as. The hardest part about the whole thing..... Removing those damn tail shaft bolts. Everything else was fairly straight forward. It’s definitely not hard and can easily be done by one person. The subframe with axles etc all attached is light enough to be lifted by a single person so fear not peoples. It’s really not as difficult as one (I) would think (thought).

Thats insanly bad. I pull that out of the first 1/4 of a tank. :S A couple of things can stuff fuel economy. O2 sensor and injectors. I bought a new o2 sensor no change in economy (~350km's to a tank), bought injectors fuel economy perfect again.

Definitely don't buy the gaskets individually. For example.. I bought a gasket kit for the rb25 head for $270. It came with all top end gaskets and valve stem seals. IF you were to buy just the valve stem seals by them selves Nissan want $330!!!!!!

Good stuff Matt.. How far away is she now? I have the arse end out of mine at the moment(subframe/diff etc) fixing a few bits up.

Unfortunately its impossible for the emanage ultimate to be as good as a powerfc as the emanage has limitations due to its design and its piggy back nature (stock ecu limitations, fuel cuts etc). You'd be better off having the stock ecu remapped. That is providing you don't want to utilize the vct.

Good stuff Duncan. How many pumps are you running?

The R33 RB25 turbo and non turbo heads run the same plenum and inlet manifold. The R32 RB25 (which is ONLY non turbo) people also make plenums for. RIPZ is the only one that I know of that does the R32 Rb25 non turbo short runner plenum. If you wish to keep your runners that aid low end torque you can simply drop on a rb20det aftermarket plenum. There's a bloke on calaisturbo.com that does them for around $700, JDcustom I think his name is. You can also use the more expensive plazman plenum. So you have a few options,

The R33 RB25 non turbo and turbo heads are essentially identical. I'm unsure if the n/a heads run slightly softer valve springs or not but the cams, valve size, port size etc are identical. The R32 heads are based on the RB20DET head with regards to their inlet port design. The inlet ports are larger than the RB20DET ports (~5mm all round), valves etc are all basically the same size as the R33 RB25 heads. The R32 inlet manifold and plenum is not interchangable with the R33 rb25 heads. You can use an R32 Rb20DET plenum on the R32 Rb25DE inlet manifold as they too are identical. The R32 Rb25de inlet manifold vs rb20det inlet manifold simply has larger runners to match that of the r32 rb25de larger ports. So to answer your question.. No, it can't be done, they are different.

This is one of the reasons my oldies sold their rental properties. They worked out that the interest paid, income received and value growth simply wasn't worth it and money was better off pushed in else where.

wow.. houses going backwards in sydney. Here in adelaide unless you buy up in a bad area houses are still going up. But only a little. Thats an interesting little tid bit.

If you want to make some decent power get rid of that darn emanage.

You'd need to do the calcs on interest etc to see which would work out better. The oldies bought a block of land for 150,000 a couple of years ago, they are now getting offers for 270,000. They sold up all their rental properties just as the boom was ending as the old man made mention that it wasn't worth keeping due to the market going stagnant (as it does after the boom) which is bad when your paying interest on near the full loan amount. :S

Any land available? Buy and sell when the time is right and you can make some very good money without being too out of pocket due to a much smaller loan.

It does help get a little collateral behind you BUT.. I'd prefer to buy land and sit on it for a while then sell or use it as collateral to get a house built. Building is cheaper but in the long run it works out more expensive as landscaping etc works out quite expensive.

Thats exactly right. Especially when R32's are so damn cheap. There's a few R32 GTS4's that have extreme potential (with a little RB30 DOHC) for 8-10k.

my other half does that.. Makes bugger all noise. Be stuffed I could ever do it. :S I let out a hell loud aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhCHHHHHHHHHHOOOOOOOOOOCHHHHHHOOOOCHHHHHHHO O!!

What did Miltons charge for the bottom end build up? I had them do my head but not the bottom end as they were (back then) just stupidly expensive.

160/28 = 5.714 5.714 * 100 = 571rpm. It must be 2.8. rpm = (speed /2.8) * 100 I know that equation is off on the dyno I run on.

yer same.. Mine always lets me know what rpm is what speed, what rpm/speed it made all its boost and peak power.

Shaun will see how it goes on the day, i.e slowly wind boost up until the limits of the std ecu and piggy backs are reached. Do the Stagea's still have the dreaded R&R? This will be its limitation BUT with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator you may be able to push up fuel pressure and then lean it right out with the safc, you won't have to worry about it pinging its head off due to the lesser load points and more ignition it runs as you can pull ignition out with the ITC. Looks good.

Yes.. Run a wire from the rad fan relay in to the cabin, in to a switch and then earthed. (remember the relays are negatively triggered) But why would you want to do that? Just have it activate when you hit the a/c switch like aussy cars do.

It may have a stuffed plate or two if its dented badly enough. My battery that was leaking was bloated also. Zero overcharging and usual engine bay temps. Its suspected it may have been dropped prior to purchase.

http://www.cpuid.com/download/cpu-z-139.zip Click the memory tab to to show if your running ddr or ddr2. I know its a silly question but you are trying to put it in the correct way around?

If its been overtightened its possible he has damaged the battery. Remove the battery clamp and check there's no noticably 'dents' on its top.