Cubes

Stocky, If you check out a couple of the links above there's a bloke with a kit behind his back seat. So I'd assume its all fine running a setup so far away. You can get check valves for them. Not sure if the kit includes it.

The stock r32 n/a springs only have issues with over ~17psi boost. No boost and they are fine. RB30 N/A pistons achieve an 8.2-8.3:1 comp ratio, so too low for N/A application. Sort out the deck height and I believe rb25 pistons achieve 10-10.5:1 which is closer to what you want for N/A.

So stock cams CruiseLiner? A good example of what cams can do is LukeVL's Rb25/30. A mates rb25/30 made 260rwkw on 15psi with std cams. Lukes makes 320rwkw on 15psi.

What size injectors do the N/A R33's run? Surely not 370cc's like the turbo's?

The 26 heads have came down in price a hell of a lot. I've seen complete rb26 heads with manifolds etc for as low as 1.2-1.5k. So keep your eyes peeled. I'd be inclined to speak to LukeVL (Tighe cams) and question regarding a regrind. BIG lift with a reasonable duration to prevent it being a peaky/lumpy/lack of down low bastard. The jap cams tend to run quite a bit of duration and lack lift.

Yes but we are talking silicon. I've always used rubber in the past but had a small issue with it cracking over time. it turns out the grommet stuff is crapo. I last grabbed usual rubber stuff from motor mates and i've had no issues since. I'm conservative with my car. Bright poofy colours are not for me. IF I could find some nice black silicon vac hose I would spend the extra and be done with it. I've owned the car for 5+ years now so I've most likely seen the problems of heat + rubber vac hose more so than some others. BUT it does come down to its quality as I said.. Grommet is just crap.

According to the boost cooler forum the blokes there state it makes the afr read richer. http://www.snowperformance.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=569 and.. http://www.snowperformance.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=731

After driving the car for a while... I bought a cheap Nolathane front end bush kit and a set of tie rod ends (~$21 each from Pedders, the bloke was kind enough to give me trade so bonus) that I put in before the subframe bushes. The caster rod bushes didn't increase NVH at all, the upper control arm bushes simply increased the road feel, i.e when cornering close to the gutter you can feel exactly and sharply when the wheel rides close to the gutter. If that makes sense. It has just firmed everything up. No actual increase in noise or vibration but you can feel the road more. Its not a harsh or uncomfortable feel but rather sporty and quite nice. The Noltec subframe bushes... My diff whine is louder over 80km/h and it has firmed up the feeling of the car. Apart from the diff whine there's no increase in cabin noise transmitted from the road. I can really feel when the rear tyre is cutting close to that gutter etc. And interestingly it hasn't axle tramped once, it used to tramp a touch on long sweeping second or third corners just before the car would straighten up after giving it a bit of stick. I quite like the feel the car now has. It gives more feedback without feeling harsh and uncomfortable. Now lets see how long these Nolathane front end bushes last. I've seen the R32 front end kits (adj. caster, adj. upper control arm, lower control arm & swaybar bushes) for as cheap as $314 + delivery. I bought mine a little more expensive at ~$375 delivered. Wheel aligned up I had it setup with 0.5degree neg camber on the front, 1degree camber on the rear (couldn't get any less) and ~6degree of caster. It drives dead straight now, absolutely no tramlining. The Caster bushes is what sorted the tramlining, I noticed that instantly.

Not sure how applicable it is to the RB's. GCG appear to believe it is? http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...r/faqs.html#t16

Mine always had a hard stumble start with the stock ecu. PowerFC allowed me to tune it out so to speak. I think there's definitely a problem underneath that is shared by both the R32 and R33's. Just what is it? In my instance I have worked around it but really its just a patch up. I'll be a little more clear. Stock ecu.. Hard start stumble. Occasionally it would start nicely. PowerFC Untuned.. A little stumble but no where near as bad as the stock ecu. PowerFC tuned.. Hard start stumble on par witht he stock ecu. (noticed load points 4-5 @400rpm were leaned out, richening up these load points reduces the stumble) PowerFC tuned but with my fiddling.. Cranking time increased to around 35ms.. Perfect start no stumble just vrooom. From what I've seen it appears it doesn't get enough fuel. Pushing in more via the cold start cranking time sorts the stumble.

Mafia... What do you think about buying from the US as it does appear cheaper? The kits are the same brand etc. But do they contain the same gear?

http://www.snowperformance.net/products.php?p_cat=262 Buy direct and it may save you a few $$. Thats if you can. R33_racer, how do you go about tuning the water meth? I've been reading a little and it appears you setup the afr's to 12.5:1, turn the water/meth inj. on and set that up to drop the afr by half a point. Then start pushing the ignition in to it. Is that how yours is tuned?

Isn't $10 a metre pretty much the going rate?

In my eyes ANY noticable wear on a gearknob, leather, pedals or seats before 150,000km's means the clock has been wound back. ~ 5years ago I test drove a Soarer from an importer. It had 228,000km's on the clock and had only just been received as it was completely filthy. I got back and said, it feels quite tight for 228,000km's. Its in good nick. The bloke replied stupidly... Oh no thats not the real km's on the clock, its only done 60,000km's as the speedo causes the odometer to read high. It was in good nick for 228,000km but it was not a 60,000km car. A complete Joke. A 60,000km car regardless of age is and feels near bran spankin new. My sister a couple of years ago bought a VL that had been owned by an elderly couple. It had just over 100,000km's on the clock and it literally was bran spanking new. Quite a sight to see an old car as such look so 'new'. Japan has lots of short trips so it wears the interior.. Don't let that lie fool you.

When did it occur? Definitely not good.

Yes but its not all that common. What were the other near stock r33's running? I remember around the 150-160rwkw mark. What were your afr's I don't remember?

Swap out the ignitor to rule that out. Its a series1?

I noticed with my PFC if the load points 4-8 @ 400rpm were leaned out it would cause this stumble. Richening them up rectified the problem OR another way around it was to dial in more injector cranking time (ms) at the relevant 'stumble' engine temperature which for mine is ~10-20degree's. Have you tried turning off the SAFC to see if it still does it?

I picked up 3rwkw back to back on the same (stock) boost level when I dropped my bar/plate spearco FMIC on mine years back.

There's a few here in SA that have basically just been bolted on. It appears ~20psi makes a shade over 300rwkw. I'd assume the difference between 20psi making 340-380rwkw and 20psi making a shade over 300rwkw is nice exhaust manifolds, plenums and a decent set of cams.

4dirty2, Do you think you will look at sourcing a supplier that deals black IC silicon hose? http://www.txs.com.au/silicon/

Paul..... Winding boost down sucks... Get it on the dyno for a cheap power run to see if all is ok, you might be able to keep it up there or at least have a good stab at where is safe.

If your still on the stock ecu your doing damn well and may have one of those 95 freak ecu's that tend not to experience R&R. However... 14psi through a gt3037 usually is up around 230-240rwkw. Your probably better off pushing boost down for safety sake as 230-240rwkw is beyond the stock injectors when running stock fuel pressure.

If you've had a IC leak for 4 months then you clearly don't have any. LMAO!!!

You 'accidently' pressed your caps lock. You will find people don't read all caps posts as they are difficult to follow.