Cubes

I have the same sensor reading -30degree's and yes it stuffs the a/c so that its not cold. Its a real pain in the arse to get to. Best bet is to buy another and simply plug it in and push it in to the box, leave the old there. I've been quoted around $45 for the sensor.

Whats the condition of your diff like? A slightly open wheeling VLSD makes for horrid traction in the wet. How worn tyres are makes a massive difference to wet traction also.

Thats because it was in an r33. In an R32 your looking at atleeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaasssssstttttt another 50-100km/h on top of that speed down the straight.

I sold my old VS 5ltr 5speed because it used too much juice, I bought a turbo'd skyline so I could limp it around off boost the majority of the time and be decent on petrol. When I want to give it a hit I do and it uses the juice. I remember when new from factory the R32 GTST's were supposed to return 10.5L/100km's and the R33's 10L/100km's. Obviously thats when they were new, on jap fuel and driving it lightly. As long as mine continues to return over 400km's per 50litres I care less. A mate runs 800cc sard twin sprays making 270rwkw with his rb30det and that still returns over 400km's to a tank so there's no reason why some should see less in my eyes.. Obviously if he gets stuck up it for long periods of time (which is near impossible not to mention damn dangerous with 270rwkw) it will suck the juice. Thats my story/rant. LOL

I'm in for a blue pair.

You always have the option of a remap. http://www.bikirom.com/Products.php

Good stuff Andrew.. Looks identical to mine, specs etc. The first pic looks like the blades are skinnier but the second pic (below) looks identical.

lol torque steer. On the dyno the subframe would shift so much the left wheel looked as if it was going to kiss the guard.

I used a couple of Cable ties. Works well.

Unsure about the 33's but twins won't fit the 32's due to the a/c receiver dryer.

I used a cheapo Ebay special ~$75ish a year or two ago. The origional is 12" I squeezed a 14" in there that flows what feels like more than double. If you do grab a thermo grab one with an S shaped fan blade. They flow considerably more and are much quieter.

52litres - 466km's ~11.1L/100 ZERO warm up time. Just jump in start the car put seatbelt on and drive off normally. Idling around kills fuel consumption. ZERO peak hour traffic, just local short low speed <80km/h trips.

To set the VCT up optimally you set the vct switch point to an rpm point that you won't reach (8000rpm for example) Adjust ign and afr's around the 3500rpm+ point optimally. It only takes 10minutes or so to do this. Then give it a power run, Move the switch point to 3000-3500rpm and give it another power run. Overlay the two graphs and there's your absolute optimal switch point for the given setup.

After having driven the car for a little with the new subframe bushes I can safely say its MUCH better. No more torque steer in a straight line through second. lol There's no noticably increase in NVH apart from low speed hard acceleration out of corners where you can feel the inside wheel doing its inside wheel chirping due to the outside wheel speed being faster than the inner. Very happy with it.

Care to share what brand extension to use? The one I bought from jaycar definitely had a different center locating lug. I attempted to trim but failed.

Hey Disco, I bought a ps2 extension cable from jaycar some time ago to find the center plastic locating lug was a different shape which prevented it sliding in. I ended up buying a pfc extension from nengun. I've ran the cable up in to the glove box latch. It sits there nice and tidy, finger up it and knock down the connector and plug the h/c in.

Pull the passengers kick pad off and check for an aftermarket ecu. If its the stock ecu then look at the cat, its most likely stuffed.

Then there's mine on the other hand... Was a stuffed diff. No problems powering on and spinning all the way through second and third through the hills out of corners regardless of what tyres I ran. A good diff makes a massive difference.

lol at the Nankangs. Funny thing is a mates gts4 making 270rwkw with an rb30det in it. He runs NS2 nankang 245/45/18's. Drop it in rwd mode and the damn tyres hang on unbelievably, there is spin through first but second holds on right up until 5500rpm where it starts to chirp a touch until 7000rpm. Its amazing what a set of new tyres will do for grip. Even if they are Nankangs.

I have an R200 4.375:1 R32 GTS4 Crown and pinion. I'm chasing $40 + postage. Great for you GTR owners, you'll also have to source a front diff from a GTS4 to match up the front ratio. 4.375 in the rear and a 4.11 up front wouldn't work too well.

I'm sorry.. I'm with Oosh. We covered why not to use flash back at Uni. I'm not going to go in to it because I can't be stuffed and you don't care. HTML is super quick and easy to develop.

awesome.. to chirp second you must be making at least 200-210rwkw.

If I were to do it again apart from the non-stock look the GTR head is the only way I would go. By the time you add the plenum, nicer cams etc etc your miles ahead. I've seen GTR heads with plenum/tb's go for as low as 1200. When I did my conversion the gtr complete head/plenum etc were up over $2500-$3000

I just done a quick search. Lots of people are selling them. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...&hl=emanage http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=98562&hl= http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=77062&hl= Have a read of the above threads. SK raises a couple of good points regarding the tunability. frogstomp, as I mentioned earlier, you have an option to remap the stock ecu. Do it, its by far your best option. Hitek Dyno here in Adelaide has done the emanages in the past. PM TSL here on the forums and see what he wants to remap the stock ecu. I remember? TSL mentioned a tune he did for someone here in Adelaide, I think it may have been Johns dyno as well. Not too sure.

My Noltec subframe bushes are in. They can be had from Unique Autosports for ~$190. Here's how I went about it. In short the process of removal: Wheels Callipers and sat them on a box so they don't hang Sway Bar (makes life easier) Tail shaft Exhaust cat back Removed hicas lines from rear steer rack and tucked them out of the way Disconnect Hand brake lines The hicas wiring ran under the hand brake line, unplugged and replugged so it ran over the top Diff (easy as, simply ran 2 ropes around under neath it (front and rear) attaching to the subframe and secured to my club lock on the other end, dropped the jack then let the ropes down slowly so it lowered the diff) Placed a car jack (scissor) under each side of the subframe Removed bolts and slowly let the subframe down. Once it was at a reasonable hight I lifted each edge, kicked the jack out and placed the subframe back down Dragged the subframe out and argggg... now for the bush removal..... ---- Bush removal I didn't have enough material on hand to make a solid support for the subframe when pushing bushes out. The 2 rear bushes are really easy as they are just simple rubber bushes. The 2 front silicon filled bushes are a pain in the arse as they have 3 parts that need to be cut and then pushed out in succession. I tried cutting all the way through with one but the bush just didn't budge. I had to remove each ring in succession. It was quite easy simply drilling out the old rubber bush then using a hack saw to cut 2 small cuts completely through the metal shell roughly a cm apart. Then hit it with a suitable cold chisel and the metal simply peels back, roughly 3/4 the way down the bush starts to push out. Doing it this way they take roughly 1hr maybe a little more to remove all 4 bushes. ---- Bush Install The 2 front bushes pressed in quickly and easily. The rear 2 I was unable to get the press in without removing all the control arms etc so I grabbed a piece of 3" exhaust pipe, cut it down and smacked the sh*t out of it with a small sledgy. They went in fairly quickly to my surprise. Towards the end of the second the pipe began to fatigue and crush quickly with each hit. The hardest part about the whole thing..... Removing those damn tail shaft bolts. Everything else was fairly straight forward. It’s definitely not hard and can easily be done by one person. The subframe with axles etc all attached is light enough to be lifted by a single person so fear not peoples. It’s really not as difficult as one (I) would think (thought).