Cubes

I really couldn't tell you. I simply bought a dioide that was as large as I could get from jaycar. From memory it was rated to 300v.

See RACESPEC has subframe bushes suitable, @ $168 you really can't go wrong. They don't have a metal outercasing as its not required. GTS4diehard, with your subframe bushes did you notice the new ones were slightly taller than the origionals?

Ring the mechanic and tell him what the battery bloke has said. Then state you won't be taking your car back to him and will be suggesting to every one you know not to take it there either.

lol.. It doesn't work. The slightest movement and the paint flakes off.

$900 is a reasonable price for a turbo back. Stainless or Mild? I'd assume Mild. Nothing wrong with mild. Doesn't look as flashy and lasts 5-10years. If I were to do it again from the start I would drop a 3.5" system on it with large twin mufflers (center and rear) to keep the noise down a little. Canons are as loud as crap, try to avoid them unless you want the milo tin look. Becarefull of 'some' of the jap mufflers as they taper down inside. Which obviously restricts exhaust flow.

I used to own a VS 5ltr 5speed with IRS that was horrid in the wet. It was mildly cammed and would clear its throat around 3000rpm. Also.... The RB20DET was far worse in the wet than the current Rb30DET even though the rb30det makes a whole lot more power down low. The 3ltr has improved throttle control in the wet 10fold.

http://www.txs.com.au/silicon/reducer.htm Straight Reducer 63 - 76 mm BLACK SR-6376-BLK $20

Sounds like a dodgy setup. First place I would be looking.

Rip them out and shove silicon all around them... Worked on mine.

Those of you with auto's. Do remember auto's suck a fair bit more juice. The only auto i've owned was a VL commodore back when they were about 10yrs old. I promptly dropped a manual in to it and instantly picked up ~80km's extra per tank or what worked out close to 2litres less per 100km's.

Even with the turbo off it can be difficult to determine if it is the turbo seal. Sounds almost as if oil is dumping through the system at high rpm. Mine would fill the cam covers after a hard 7000rpm run and ploom smoke out the exhaust as I had no catch can.

Have you ever had them flow tested? How long ago?

Thread Closed for a peaceful death.

Yep expect to make pretty much peak power at 4000-5500rpm then have power die after that.

You can use the Rb20DET PFC BUT you will loose the R33's VCT.

Rip em out and have them tested. $50-80 for a flow test is considerably cheaper than the purchase of new injectors when they very well may be fine.

Your results sound a little too low. Have a look else where or try a different tuner. There's no reason the .68 shouldn't achieve an easy 250rwkw. Do you run a catch can? What fuel? What Exhaust? Do you run a cat convertor?

Why did the last motor let go? Have you rectified the problem that caused the last motor to let go? Fuel pump? Injectors? AFM? Poor Oil Supply? Motors don't usually just let go for no reason.

A poor spray pattern will only affect low rpm/light throttle. At full throttle everything happens so quickly a 'squirter' simply doesn't matter. So its not your injectors holding back the 'lack' of ignition timing.

HKS cams apparently lope nicely.

If your R32 started life as an auto, apparently theres no need for xmember butchery. If your R32 started life as a manual then there's no way around it. You have to butcher the std xmember. Mine chewed third gear. But the box had done 200,000km's odd and had 4years of my slapping of gears. What was scary is I was hardly giving it much when it let go so it can happen any time really.. On a long trip. :S

The R33 box behind a RWD RB30DET has absoltely no issues. 300rwkw is a walk in the park. ------- I've had an rb20det gearbox much third gear with only ~180rwkw. However, the torque it was making at the wheels was the same as an r33 with 300rwkw (on the same dyno), obviously at a much lower rev. BUT get a decent non thrashed rb20det box and it will last long enough to save your $$ for an rb25det gearbox. Hunt around they can be picked up for low $1000. Some wreckers charge like a wounded bull. One local wrecker here wants $900 for an rb20det gearbox when there going rate else where is $500!!!

Unsure how correct it is but I have been told that when changing cams you need to bleed the lifters down as when isntalling new cams it can cause them to hold the valve open a little which in turn can cause a valve to kiss the piston when torqueing them down. Another option I've been told is that you spin the motor 10-15degree's off TDC so the there's no chance of that happeneing. I really am not sure as I haven't done it myself so its worth looking in to a little.

I've recently removed and reinstalled my std coil overs as I did my rear subframe bushes and front end bushes. Very very easy. Simply jack the car up, remove the 2 top nuts that are located in the boot and engine bay. Remove the shocker nut then shove a bar inbetween the suspension and the coil over and leverage it off its lower mounting point. It will pop off but no where near severe enough to damage you or anything. Its only ever so slightly preloaded. The fronts are easy to remove as there's plenty of room but the rears you need to slide up through the upper control arm and then out of the guard. There's only just enough room. Give it a go. Easy as. Quicker and easier than changing a set of brake pads.

Thats some pretty bad luck. Did you smash valves?