Cubes

RB30's make 300rwkw's at 5500rpm if the inlet isn't changed. I'm still sticking by the inlet altering the rpm power band. I've seen it with my own eyes from 180rwkw right up to 270rwkw+ so its difficult for some one to say its the exhaust side and say its not designed for 250rwkw+ when I've seen completely different.

The RB26 and 25 rod is 121.5mm according to Wiseco's catalogue. Are you sure the rb20 rod is 121.5mm?

87mm B18C5 stroke. It runs a 1.58 stroke ratio. So similiar to the one of the rb25/26/20 RB's. I forget which one. http://www.superhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=125367

Good point.. A quick google revealed rb30 like specs. 87mm bore x 84mm stroke Its rod length is 153mm which gives us a rod to stroke ratio of 1.82. RB30 is 86mm bore x 85mm stroke. In my case 87mm bore. The RB30 also runs what is considered a near perfect rod to stroke ratio of 1.77 (152.5mm / 85mm) The apparent perfect rod/stroke ratio is 1.75. It will be good to see how R33Racers? holds up as thats flicked to 8500rpm around the track. http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/rod-tech-c.htm Sums up rod to stroke ratio's fairly well. So with a good cradle it might be possible to build a super reliable 9000rpm rb30 monster.

I found the same. Mine before exhaust etc was 8.9psi. Fitted the exhaust and it went up to... 10.9psi. Going from 12.5psi to 15psi mine picked up 12rwkw. So 1.25psi for every 6rkw. Which isn't too good. BUT what it did do was increase the mid range noticably. Mine didn't have issues running that boost for close to 100,000km's (in total according to the odo ~178,000kms).

Maybe having a lesser load hanging off the end of the rod and slower piston speed allows for more reliable high rpm.

I'm with Roy. Sort of. I remember an old Zoom article on the Gibson GTR. At Bathurst Gibson motorsport limited rev's to 7000rpm as over 7000rpm the life of the motor reduced drastically. So maybe a high reving RB is not such a good thing? The other option is to shove a heap more boost in to the 2ltr so that it doesn't have to rev as hard to make the same power. But then you narrow up the power band and place a greater reliance on nice fuel.

R32's it activates over 70km/h. I assumed R33's were the same.

500hp (~310rwkw on the dyno I run on) is a walk in the park for stock rb30's and rb25's providing they are in good condition and tuned well with an appropriately sized turbo. Its wise to drop the static comp to a more friendly 8.5:1 if its an rb25. The Rb30 will be more reliable than the rb25 as it 'can' do it with less rev's. The same goes for the rb25 vs the rb20. A gt35r .82 comes makes all its boost a shade over 3500rpm. A GT3040 which can also 'squeeze' 500hp if you push 22psi through it with a set of cams, good exh. manifold, plenum etc will come on strong a shade over 3000rpm. Thats not 'stupid' lag demoniak.

I think quite the opposite. The R33 looks awesome when its slightly lowered sitting on a set of wide 255's.

Paul.. Unless you are thrashing hard right up until the moment you turn the car off (unlikely on the street unless your in an accident) all that is needed is 30secs. I've had mine for over 5years without any issues with oil lines or turbo's coking. I simply drive the last 500m-1km easyish then turning off the car is the last thing I do when leaving it. Belt off, get wallet etc etc. OR.. if you driving to a car park.. by the time you find your car park etc its well and truley enough time for temps to get back under control.

Nope no difference. Was just curious thats all. I believe they all come from the same place. Considering these mob state they make the cores the kits/end tanks etc look identical to the JJ kits. http://hs-exchanger.en.alibaba.com/offerde...an_Skyline.html

Whats the price difference between the Ferodo DS2500 and RB74?

Who did u end up getting the fmic from? JJ, GKTech etc?

Good find. Awesome.

Regardless.... YEARS ago back before SAU was born (2001/2002) I was on SDU. One bloke managed a best of 14.2 1/4 mile out of a dead stock R32 with a good launch and some wide tyres. So not really stock as it wasn't running its stock 205/55/16's --------- lmao... @ 11ty billion.

lol nisskid. That brought back a memory sitting in the passenger seat of a Mini with the driver attempting to reach its top speed down a hill. :S I was scared.

Its not so bad paul. Providing its not dumped on its arse with powerfc h/c's sitting in the cabin, pillar guages, plenums and high mount turbo's they usually cannot pick that a modification has been done. A little bit of prettyness won't get you defected as it all depends on what you say at the time. "I used silicon hose as it withstands the engine bay heat better, the standard rubber stuff cracks every couple of years."

lmao... In my case its a little more severe. I skimped on the other/better halfs b'day and valentines pressy's. :S

I suspect remote start isn't legal as its difficult to implement safely across the fleet of cars on our roads. The later model manual's run a neutral switch, some of the older cars do not. Attempting to determine which do and which don't, what car can and can't safely run a remote start system would simply cost too and provide no gain. So government money wasted. With regards to auto's... as they age, the shifter wears, depending on design its possible for the park shifter lock not to work correctly. A slight bump and its sitting in drive, maybe the park and neutral safety switch is also stuffed, so broom off the car goes. So it coule be seen that as cars age remote start is a safety hazard? I've seen this occur in old VL commodores, column shift xe falcon and t-bar TE cortina. I'm not fussed either way i'm simply speculation why it could be seen as unsafe preventing remote start from becoming illegal.

Come on ppls.. we need more ppls. 175 isn't good enough. If we can't do better I may have to drop out.

lol yep I was averaging 25-30k per year until recently. I now do roughly 250-300km's per week so not so bad.

Mines pushing over 230,000km's now. Bought it at 67,000km's nudging 5.5years ago.

I used the RB25 wiseco piston in mine. Its not optimal but it works ok. You end up with a highish static comp. Depends if thats what your after. Either way.. CP's are the best option Im aware of. Sk uses JE's I believe but I'm unable to find any info on part numbers and what static comp results. SK may have stated one time or another but I'd imagine its been lost in this huge thread.

Some one did that to a VL some years ago. GTR 4wd driveline in to a VL.