Cubes

Black black black. No need to wash every day. I've found from a short distance the black still looks shinny for a good half to full week. Up close you do see the watermarks and dust etc but all in all.. Black stays looking good for some time.

Andrew.. Are you still running around with that 100mm china fmic? I'm having a look at a gts4 4door this week. Appears really tidy. Most likely I will grab it as its a bargain. I plan on transfering the motor over and quite possibly selling off my head and throwing a gtr head on it. Simply due to bonnet clearance issues. I'd prefer to have the gtr head with its plenum in the gts4 for the same cost as having an rb25 head with a 700-800 odd plenum. My only concern was the exh. manifold.. Where did u get your head to manifold flange or did you cut it out yourself? Probably biting off a little more than I can chew with regards to fabrication. :S

Nice.. So you say better.. You mean still stock gtr plenum and stock gtr cams but better than the rb25 shiet? Quite impressed with the result. Excellent.

holy moley... Damn nice result Andrew. I bet that plasted a grin from ear to ear the first time you gave it a lot. So whats different to the old setup? 382rwkw on the gt35/40 .82? Shiet. Quite an improvement over the stock inlet and exh. setup. Did the restrictor make it to you in time to be fitted up?

A mate of mine used to have a spare manifold where he would sit it on top of a piece of paper. The reason for the manifold is that the injectors will not sit in the rail when pressurised, they require the manifold to be held in. He ran a long piece of hose from the car to the manifold/fuel rail/injectors sitting on the ground, pressurised it all up and then let it sit overnight. Check the paper in the morning and its obvious if any fuel has dribbled out the injectors. His would hold pressure fine as yours do but overnight we could see fuel had leaked from the injector. Unsure if this is normal, we assumed not.

Hi ppls, I have a set of 6bolt half shafts to suit a VLSD diff with a tight viscous hub and spider gears. The viscous hub is nice and tight, zero signs of overheating, its in excellent condition. This package is good if you don't yet have the $$ to go all out on a diff center yet want the strength of the GTR's bigger axles and a tight lsd. Essentially: Remove your diff center, split the casing, remove the old spider gears and viscous hub, insert the tight viscous hub and spidergears. Reassemble the diff center, place it in the housing then slide in the 6bolt VLSD half shafts. Bolt up the axles and your done. Easily done at home you don't need specialist tools to setup backlash etc as you are using your origional center, just changing the guts of it to suit the stronger 31spline 6bolt halfshafts/axles. For the lot, spidergears, tight viscous hub and 6 bolt half shafts: $50 + Postage I have a set GTR/GTS4 Axles for sale here - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=0#entry2987016 SOLD

Hi ppls, I have a set of R32 GTR GTS4 31spline 6bolt Axles. $150 + postage. SOLD

They get my vote. Grab a night pic or even just lit up for us.

Sorry ppls I'm out. Spare of the moment decision I'm selling up.

Thanks.. Bit of a pain in the arse. I will see if I grow on the 4door tail lights.

gt-t_r34, The only way to stop that I've found is to grease up the 2 top pins/slides as the pins with the antisqueel shims is the noise and feel your getting through the pedal. Remove the antisqueel shims and the creeking noise will disappear, well it did for me. The squeel just before coming to a stop drove me mad so I put them back in and the creek noise and feel is back. Grease them up a little, but over time the grease attracts brake dust and the noise returns. Maybe new shims will do the trick? Something I haven't tried is no shims with some pbr antisqueel glue stuff. Might do the trick.

Hey ppls, As the topic states.. Do the R32 2 door tail lights fit an r32 4 door? I'm sure its been covered but at the moment the search function isn't playing nice.

Get a boxing bag or join a boxing club. Take out that frustration some where.

Back in 97 I bought my first extremely Tidy 1989 VL Commodore. Sitting in KFC drive through; some numb nut in her volvo with a hat on the back parcel shelf did exactly that, reversed straight in to me. :S There appeared to be no damage, I got home and the bumper was completely broken underneath. And I didn't get their details... lesson learnt. :S Awseome car the little old VL.

I'm with Alf. Get it off the road as next time they may be using that screw driver to pop the lock and vrooom off it goes down the street to the nearest industrial area to see what it can do.

It doesn't work like that It will still be 68ohms.

Ahh yes.. When I had mine out giving it a clean I measured up and I couldn't see a way that the 600mm core would fit with a 180degree bend back underneath. Probably could but it looked possible with the 450 and obviously is. I run a 450mmx300x90mm core with slightly off center positioned in/outs as I mentioned earlier.

It really is easy. There's a single + feed that splits off in to 6 that run to each injector. You simply use the resistor pack as the 'splitter'. So the single + in to the resistor pack and then connect the 6 wires that were connected to that single + in to the resistor pack. Obviously make sure u connect the single + feed to the correct wire on in the resistor pack. Nothing hard about it, make sure you have a multimeter handy to double check its all good. I used a flux pen, solder with flux core and a soldering iron. The flux pen makes life easy and returns tidy solder joins.

lol.. bugger.

Any pics? What core did you use? The usual bottom in/out china justjap style core?

I grabbed the trans/powersteer hose from the local autostore, 1m cost about ~$10. The powersteer pump big hose I grabbed from Pirtek. $9 the length cost me. All up i'd say it cost ~$40-$50 in hose, hose clamps x 10 and 1ltr fluid. Very happy its fixed. The last 2 weeks prior to fixing it I went through 1ltr. :S No special method removing pipes etc. Just rip them off. If they don't come off grab a small set of grips and twist the hose, if that still fails just chop it off with a stanley knife. The large reservoir to pwr steer pump hose is 19mm ID. 400mm max length needed, I cut mine down a little furthur so that it didn't rub on anything. Tight squeeze but worked out well.

The GTR resistor pack measures up from memory low 5 ohms, the 280ZX and MR30 resistor packs measure up in the high 5's; up to 10ohm resistors won't cause a problem as they have been used in the past without issues. Rip the CAS out and leave it connected, turn the ignition to the on position and spin the cas while listening for the injectors. Spin it obviously in the same direction the motor would turn. As others have said.. Ensure the fuel lines are the correct way around. Double check your Z32 wiring and last of all double check your ecu.

lol your right its not that bad but it was enough for the other half to ask what I had done to the car.

You drive fine. I was only stirring.

I notice an ever so slight roughness or bump as you call it in idle with the 0.8mm gapped plugs. BUT its only ever ever so slight. 1.1mm its baby smooth. 0.9mm which I'm running now appears to be near perfect and ignition doesn't break down. 0.6mm idle is horrid.