Cubes

The RB25 rear main seals are the same as a RB30. Cheap as chips. Also super easy to replace. A few bolts and its off, then slide on the new. Machining of the flywheel, I can't remember what thats generally worth. Either way $100 to machine a flywheel and replace a rear main seal, probably around the mark.

Throw a /30 on the end of that RB26. Nice pick up. So how long in total from finding the car to getting it in to australia?

That depends where you are. Ring your local tuning workshops and ask.

Depending on how happy the dyno is. Aim for 250-260rwkw so you don't dissapoint yourself. Lithium, when do you start seeing/feeling boost?

The R32 RB25DE's were non-vct so no lump. Externally look wise they look identical to an rb20. EVERYTHING (bolt on) apart from the inlet manifold (note there is 2 parts to the inlet, the plenum and the inlet manifold/runers) are interchangable with the rb20de/det motor. IF you were to use the R33 VCT RB25 head and removed the vct simply throw an adjustable cam gear on it and either set it up with the same centerline as the r32 rb20det cam or what ever makes the sort of power you are after. Here in SA dropping an R33 RB25DET or RB26DETT motor in an R32 GTST requires the R33 GTST/R32 GTR front callipers, stock ecu, turbo etc.

So what do you think Michael.. Did you prefer the gt3040 for the better low gear spool especially considering the gt3540 hasn't 'yet' made more power? Or do you prefer the gt3540 being a little easier getting the power down out of low speed corners?

Resistor pack is used when running low impedience (gtr type) injectors. Any change to fueling requires the std ecu or an aftermarket ecu to be tuned.

Pod... Waste of money at your power level. Get a decent full turbo back exhaust and fmic on to it. Grab a cheap bleeder and push boost up to 1bar on the dyno. You may have to replace the fuel pump if it hasn't already, mine began leaning out on ~13psi and was dangerously lean at 1bar. That should keep you happy for a little while. You may want to look at a pod or CAI in to the stock air box. I have done the cai in to the stock airbox. Then save your penny's for a highflow of sorts (slide or hks2530) and either a full ecu or remap. Remap is the cheapest way out of it.

<saves picture and zooms in lmao> hahah.. If you didn't say anything no one would have noticed.

I've changed my thoughts since. Simply create a 100posts before being allowed to sell on SAU. Much like nissansilvia.com, it appears to work quite well over there.

Vacuum is normal on idle?

Awesome. Your a champ. They have what I need. http://www.otomoto.com.au/kkrhoses.htm

All up in black I'm after: 2" to 2.5" 90degree bend 4" straight 2.5" straight 4" to 3" reducer Just Jap do the: 2" to 2.5" 90degree bend - $30 4" Straight - $28 TXS Silicon do the: 2.5" straight - $17 Definitely looks like I'm going to have to go offshore for the 3" to 4" reducer. I might harass justjap and see if they can get the 2.5" straight in black and a 4" to 3" reducer. No doubt some one in AUS deals with the stuff I am after. Just a matter of stumbling upon it.

Hey ppls, Appropriate section I think.. Has any one came across a webshop or what not that sell black 4" to 3" reducers? I'm having a hell of a time trying to track a black silicon reducer down. I really don't want to go blue...

You'll need to: Disconnect gearbox and any wires connecting to the motor (there's only a few) Remove radiator lift motor up remove cam belt remove cam belt drive gear using a small bearing puller remove the sump remove the oil pump and inspect If all is well with the oil pump... You may as well continue to remove the motor and give it a freshen up or buy a second hand $600-$900 wrecker motor and drop it in. A basic short motor rebuild is anywhere from 1.2-2k

Ash, They 'should' do it with around 43-45psi base pressure and close to 100% duty. 43.5psi they flow 520cc's & 40psi 480cc's. Well mine did so yours will be no different. I'm unsure if the GTR's as standard run a slightly higher base fuel pressure.

lol.. I wasn't sure exactly how far up you were, I was trying to get the group a bit closer together as there was massive gaps between us. lol ahh well.

I dont need turbo's.. I have 6 turbozets in each runner of my inlet manifold. Thats sik.

Wall-To-Wall tyres on Osullivans beach road Lonsdale. http://wall-t-wall.com/default.aspx Awesome prices for SAU members. HOWEVER, some members have been getting the SAU special prices and used the price to try and get a cheaper or match price else where. Wall To Wall are then called up by these other tyre shops asking how they can do such prices. If we do this people its only going to stop us getting good prices in the future. Sambo, throw a set of Federal 595's on it.

Awesome work pkblade editing out the number plates.

Yer must be some kid before school thinking 'thorpy said its fully sik, a rb32detttttttttttttttttttt'

Generally when the pumps die the break and you get no oil pressure. IF you are in luck it will be a simple backing plate that has came loose. Thats IF. :S What did the last oil change look like? Any metal bits in the bottom of the drain pan after you poored the oil out of it?

Be sure your living 40km's out of the CBD so you can take it to the local cop shop for its identity check. Otherwise its a regency job where they give it a brief looking over. So I was told when recently enquiring about the purchase of an interstate vehicle.

Just rear tyres due to those seamless first, second third 160km/h+ on the spot no brake burnouts.

I ended up shimming my diff. I found corner exit/acceleration was excellent, always twin wheeled. However.. Straight line acceleration still saw the diff spinning up a single wheel. Roll on the throttle in first and the left wheel would buzz up. In second when the diff was cold the left wheel would again buzz up. But for drift etc its definitely a cheap worth while mod that works. Twin wheels predictably all the time. The diff stopped clunking on sharp low speed turns after about 500km's.