Cubes

*subscribes* Sorry to be a touch off topic but the ceffy's were also released in 4wd. Would those also sit the motor slightly lower? Might be something of interest for those GTR/GTS4 owners with their RB30DET conversions. If this can be done it would be also usefull for RB30det r32gtst's.

Not sure.. To me it sounds a little dead just before it starts making boost. like buuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuRUMMM Maybe I'm used to the 3ltr and how it tends to rev a bit quicker?!? mine goes.. bruuRUMMM lol

I built mine up over 2 years ago when JUN crank collars were over $600 + fitting. Now they are down $130 ish so it is very very much worth throwing one on as $130 is next to nothing in the grand scheme of things. I had my PFC revlimit set to 6200rpm due to a valve spring issue, a missed gear change in to fourth and saw it hit just under 8500rpm within a blink of the eye. I find the pfc's rev limit isn't crash hot on free rev's. In gear acceleration its fine. I run what was supposed to be a rb25det pump that had zero wear on it; I see roughly ~6kgcm/2 (85psi) over 3000rpm and 7kgcm/2 (100psi) over 3500rpm so it has healthy oil pressure.

That may be the case but it may only take a missed gear change and bang 8500-9000rpm before you blink.

Its the same thing. The US call it extrude honing, we call it power porting.

Butters, Was the manifold pushed to its limit prior and after? The RB log manifolds for example really do struggle to push much over 300rwkw regardless the turbo bolted on their side.

Disconnecting the cas or fuel pump (plug in the boot) is a better option. By disconnecting the ignitor you still have fuel pushing in to your cylinders.

Revised how? All input is welcome. The trader feedback 'should' be up and running again, it broke last software upgrade. Find a post grepin has made and simply click the trader number then click add feedback or what ever it is. You don't need the origional post to add feedback. I prune old posts that are 3months old. That gets rid of those who don't update to say they have sold something.

For the sake of a trying to get another 5rwkw throw it on the dyno to be sure all is ok when pushing up the ign. timing. Its not worth a 3-5k rebuild.

Adz, What offset are they? Any chance of a pic from the rear that shows how they sit under the guards? I wouldn't mind fitting 9's under the rear of mine just not sure how well they would sit. Not keen on flaring guards etc.

Yep those readings were from the stock guage. Which *when* they are working correctly if fairly spot on compared to a mechanical hks guage. So whats your stock guage read? Stock pump or did you shim the spring? With Castrol 10w60 oil at high rpm mine sits only just under the 8 on the stock guage, when cold it pushes over 8. too thick. :S

The amount of ignition you can push in really depends on mods. For a dead stock R33 it may be possible to push in 4-5degree's on BP98, one running 12psi it may not be. Which is why its so important to do it on a dyno. As for checking for ping. I found the best way for myself was in third and fourth up against a guard rail. Its still difficult to hear so be very very carefull. The stock ecu only provides 'some' protection under 4500rpm, over that and it will allow you to detonate the motor to death. Varying conditions also can induce ping that was not otherwise present. Give it a really icy night and it may very well ping where it wasn't on the usual 25degree day.

Adjusting cam timing = off topic. Adjusting Ignition timing = ON topic.

There is one bloke. I forget his alias. Orange R33 in his Sig. I believe he had UAS power port/extrude hone his std exh. manifold but he is/was oversea's so he was unable to test. He's running a gt2835 and currently making up around 280rwkw. I'm very keen on seeing his results. Maybe UAS could shed some light on if the extrude honed std exh. manifold allows it to push considerably more than the 300rwkw brick wall the std exh. manifold usually see's.

There's absolutely no chance you cant throw a crank collar or r33 rb26 crank in to it?

Troy, What sort of oil pressure would you look at achieving? I bought a s/h oil pump that was an new condition (no wear) from a blown rb25det with forgy's. Bad tuning killed it. Over ~3500-4000rpm it runs ~85psi. When cold it pushes 100psi. :S A few mates have rb20det pumps and they tend to run around 70psi over 3500-4000rpm.

The exhaust manifold fouling. That depends on how thick the headgasket is as it only ever so slightly fouls with the std thickness.

Damn wish mine did that. I had issues getting boost over 12.5psi. Required a good ebc or my dodgy adjustable actuator mod. I wouldn't worry. Get it on the dyno and ensure there's no detonation and the fueling is safe being under/flat 12:1. I ran mine on 1bar for 4yrs 100,000km's odd without issues but it wasn't running lean nor was it detonating, I also didn't hit the local track with it so it only ever saw quick blats, not enough time for EGT's to soar and destroy the ceramic wheel.

I'll borrow one of my old mans sidchrome long reach sockets. lol.. When I was a young lad I chopped up and bent a heap of his sidchrome spanners as I had trouble removing a few bolts. I wasn't allowed in the shed for quite some time. :S

The R32's have 2 bleed points. Its VERY important you bleed both, if your heater core is full of air that will be pushed in to the head and VERY quickly overheat the car possibly blowing a headgasket. There is a T piece int he top heater core hose that is located behind the inlet cam cover. However, this usually only requires bleeding if you have dropped all your coolant for a flush. There's no need to turn the heater on when bleeding as the R32's constantly flow coolant through their heater cores unlike some other cars. So... 1.25ltr coke bottle, chop the bottom off, grab some rubber hose that fits in to the radiator neck and shove the coke bottle in to that so its all sealed, fill up the system and keep the water level in the coke bottle higher than the plenum. Crack the bleed nipple on the plenum and bleed out the air, then remove the plug on the t-piece and bleed the air from the heater core. Start the car and bring it up to temp, again *carefully* crack the bleed nipple and bleed out the air. Then do the same for the heater core bleeder. I have a bit of fuel hose connected to my heatercore tpiece bleeder as to make life easy. Go for a drive and it should be all sweet. R32's should always run at ~1/2 on the temp guage, half is ~70degree's to 109degree's. If not check your thermostat is working correctly and failing that replace the temp sender. The temp sender is what partially failed in mine. When it failed temps were ~1/4 on the guage.

The big chopped up socket.. Does it allow you to get to the collects ok?

Alf, How did you go with the a/c alignment/belt?

redevil. Any suitable (size) 3.5" straight through mufflers at the truck exhaust shop?

Keep it simple try not to think too much. I've said use the balancer that is suited to your ancillaries, so do just that. All pulleys must match and line up. So... use the balancer that is matched to your ancillaries, that would be the balancer that came with the car.

If you want to retain the skylines alternator, power steer and aircon you must use the skylines balancer. All your essentially doing is dropping an rb30 bottom end under the DOHC head and bolting on all the skyline bits. Its definitely not difficult and shouldn't be over complicated as apart from the powersteer bracket everything simply bolts up. The guide pretty much has everything in it you need. If it doesn't mention it you don't need to worry about it. It could do with a bit of editing regarding the oil restrictors. It would be good if some of you could share what you have done and what oil pump you are running. I do have SK's list but its always good to see what others are doing and how its working.