Cubes

I've found it to be the opposite. :S Tune on a warm day mine always pings when the air is really cold. Tune when its nice and cold and it doesn't ping in the heat. Mate of mine Antony also found the same when his was tuned on a 30+degree day; came night time it started pinging slightly. Middle of the day air is warm no ping. But yes.. The tune is too aggressive. It needs to be touched up on the dyno. A restrictive exhaust will see an earlier onset of detonation as backpressure in the exhaust means there's also more backpressure in the turbo and exhaust manifold. Backpressure = reversion = lowered ve = earlier onset of detonation due to contaminated charge = lower power

I shimmed my stock VLSD diff which worked well for getting the power down on corner exit BUT in a straight line in first gear the left wheel would always single leg it, second gear would have a slight squeel from usually the left wheel and when the diff was cold second gear would spin up a single wheel as first always would. I eventually got sick of the lack of traction in first gear and picked up a well priced R32 GTST diff that runs a GTR/GTS4 mech center with nismo 5 bolt axles. It handles 100% better than the shimmed diff, much much more predicatable. It gets the power down much better/smoother out of corners and no more single spinning through first. At least now I have an incentive to throw on a set of good tyres. Last time I threw on a set of good toyo's the left rear tyre wore so so much quicker than the right. Shimming the VLSD is good for drift; pretty much for nothing else unless you preload it to the point of the spider gears completely binding. May as well weld it.

psi, I went with the slightly smaller GT3076r .82 but in IW. Will be interesting to see the spool comparison.

I think it was those commodore drivers that spured him on. Nice looking mod list non the less.

lol.. Busted for just looking at pics. There is a noticable difference. Go the 4.11 asap. The lower ratio (numerically higher) has torque snap on harder creating more wheel spin, doesn't feel as lazy basically.

Good stuff. Does James from D1 usually attend these functions? Hell he never opens his shop.

Yea awesome.. Nice work. Throw a slide highflow turbo, remap the stock ecu, lock the diff it will be a decent drifter.

Thanks again Dave. Shot out today and picked my self up a nice little mechanical. Dropping it in tomorrow; can't wait.

Poor GTR's.

Nice work/pics etc. How do you find the locking action? I used a single 0.8mm shim and turning around sharp bends the inside wheel would chirp, it gave the same shudder feeling a mechanical would on sharp turns when accelerating. There was one small annoyance, I could essentially feel the spider gears binding and then turning, this gave the feeling of understeer/push then turn, understeer/push then turn BUT ONLY on small round abouts when turning right. The rest of the time it felt fine. Corner exit was awesome, twin wheel's all the time every time. However I found straight line acceleration still had one wheel spinning up but not as bad as before the shim. It would lunge a little better but then single leg it through first, I should have threw a little more preload in to it. The shudder mechanical feel on sharp slow corners dissapeared after ~2weeks BUT the twin wheel action was still there, so it simply became nicer to drive without loss of twin wheel drive on corner exit.

Spotted HR32, Maroone R32 GTST with a nice set of wheels that look perfect under the guards. Seacombe road this afternoon, I was in the red dungadoor VN with a new mech diff in the boot.

Ash, Old thread.. who cares.. The diff you have looks like a standard VLSD. I can even see what looks like the VLSD hub. Difficult to tell with 320x240 sized pics. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...p;#entry3045491 Look familiar? :S I recently bought my self a 2way from the local wrecker for a damn good price (looks at sig) Still out of pocket $300 from another wrecker. PM me if you wish to know their dodgy dealings. Really really pissed off.

I remember reading Gary mentioned lowering the car lower than ~350mm? threw out suspension angles? Something along those lines.

LMAO. You really should try attaching one of those myspace type/positioning pictures.

lol... yer on the case.

Would be interesting to see how they hold power. You type OBX Helical in to google and you see 'obx sucks'. This is because the diff isn't exactly plug and play. It has to be inspected, washers sorted and then reassembled. Only then is it a good thing.

I think its more likely the case that good plugin ecu's for the skylines will stop as they are old cars. There will never be a pfc2.

I vaguely a vid on youtube/googlevid of Dragme was it??

Which is most likely due to not too many people associating campbell with dragme.. I now vaguley remember a previous thread of yours but initially I had no idea as to myself it was just some person that hardly posts claiming figures. Not that I really doubted I just wanted more info on its setup and its always nice to look at such a dyno sheet in awe..

Nothing to do with jealousy. Everything to do with why not provide a little more info than simply stating...

11nty-billion psi. ---------- I've been wanting to use that line for some time; others usually beat me to it.

Borrow a mates if possible. Nothing worse than wasting money on items that don't fix the problem.

The car should run fine on the base map with regards to general commuting. Paulr33 playing with the first 10x10 maps only alters the cruise and 'very' light throttle acceleration. If your having hessitation/backfire when backing off the issue isn't cause by the turbo, check your tps is set correctly and the car isn't running overly rich. Ensure your getting reasonable economy, which is 400km's+ per tank when driving it normally with the odd squirt. If your getting sub 400's then start looking at the AFM, O2 sensor & injector condition. With regards to knock pull a good 6-7degree's. If it still knocks you may very well be knocking due to it running lean. So be carefull.

With the old RB20DET I used to run the Nulon Total Fuel system cleaner every 5000km's. It kept fuel economy up around the 10-11l/100km's. I then stopped running the stuff and fuel economy dropped to around 350km's per tank where I began experiencing starting and drivability issues. I thought it may have been the o2 sensor so I replaced it with a genuine nissan item. Still no improvement. Ripped the injectors out, new in and all was good, fuel economy back to normal.

Look at the CAS & AFM. Not really much else to them.