Cubes

Did you try forcing it on via the diag mode? 43 I believe forces the a/c on.

Yep its often on sale and can be picked up for that much from autobarn.. What ever you do don't buy it from repco.. Almost $70. :S

The Nissan filters are good, they run a silicon antidrain valve. They were once better when they were made in Japan. And were blue in colour, they are now whiteish and 'apparently' not as good as they used to be. I couldn't pick anything wrong with them though, it looked like a well built filter. Nissan coolant is another one which is well priced.

Unsure on what Autobarn charge as I get mine from Supercrap auto for $15.99. I then get Motul 8100 from another small autostore thats local for $59.99. I think Autobarn have jacked their price up of the Motul 8100.

If you ever get a mechanical in to it you will say wow.. How much easier is it to get the power down out of a corner without it getting all crossed up. BUT saying that.. It does depend how much power your making and the transition of power. Mine comes on really hard with little throttle so it does make throttle control a touch difficult. + once the diff wears in with its shim its much softer so to speak.

It is.

Autobarn Mile end have everything you need. I've found Motul 8100 5w40 to work well, change every 5000kms with a PureOne Oil filter.

+ better boost response when selecting that next gear. Flutter... also if you run a bov thats too tight. Some bov's you have to tighten right up so they don't leak on higher boost levels.

Definitely not a problem with the R32 ECU Setup.

Regular R32 RB20DET GTST powerfc works fine. The 4wd's ecu and motors ecu are seperate. Been watching ebay a little..... There's a s/h rb20det pfc on there for 1.8k.

So you have checked you don't have a dud sensor? Throw it in to diag mode and have a look at the temperature values from the 4 sensors or what ever it is. I had a dud cabin air inlet temp sensor, constantly reading -30degree's.. Obviously it would refuse to engage the aircon's compressor as it was too damn cold. lol

Not larger afm.. Larger pipe that resides between the AFM and Turbo. Help slow down the air a little.

Might be stolen?

No Madaz was talking rb26, I then replied with rb30 ftw.

Says who? The Marketers I know of a VLT running 12psi thats been running no bov for 270,000km's still on its std origional turbo that even worse... is a journal bearing turbo. It will be fine. Speak to Shaun if your worried.

We need to get out to a Mallala Track Practice day.

Charles W, GTRBen did exactly what you are talking about and was goign to fit it in to his RB30DET S13. I remember seeing some pics with it in the tunnel but for what ever reason he ended up not finishing the *rb26 g/box* project and bolting up an rb25t box. I don't see Ben around here all that much any more but it wouldn't hurt to drop him a PM. Be sure to update the thread with any issues etc and why he decided to not go with it if he responds.

lol yes the bov manufactures tell you it hurts the turbo. lol With the stock afm to turbo pipe the dose sound is fairly quietish but with a metal afm to turbo pipe it is quite a bit louder. Have a read of.... Simon from Nispro. http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_1457/article.html Also Quiz Shaun @ Boostworx if your worried.

No. Its a drivability/smoothness/emissions thing. If your running a big turbo with lots of boost you may encounter your silicon joiners blowing off if you don't run tbolts & have the lip of the pipe flared. Silicon is slippery.

Looks like it. For myself.. No bov, thin sheet metal plate blocking it off. All looks standard. 4" afm to turbo pipe. Large afm to turbo pipe reduces the ever so slight drivability/stall issues you get with no bov. You get better next gear boost response when not running a bov.

When I spoke to regency Vehicle standards they said you can't run an aftermarket bov regardless if its plumb back or not, he also said I couldn't modify the return pipe or modify the afm to turbo pipe. BUT.. ring another day and I probably would have received a different response.

But your GTS4 is released from factory as an N/A GTS4 An Rb20DET running 1bar, fmic and exhaust pushes out around 170rwkw on the stock ecu. Then consider the weight difference of the R33 GTS4 to the R32 GTS4 and I think you will find it is damn close. If you want real performance grab a cheap 9-10k R32 GTS4 and drop a couple hundred $$ s/h running rb30 in it with an rb25 head, gt35r and push out 300+rwkw easily with strong power from 2500rpm. Besides the point... By the time one speds the $$ on a gearbox and motor for the R32 GTST your out of pocket more than if you bought the R33 gtst. So buy R32 GTS4.

RB20 FTL The R33 really is the better starting point. Bigger motor, better flowing head makes power easier Good Gearbox that will handle anything you throw at it. I'm all for the R32 chassis though.

only if you organise it. lmao

The 33's have a newer feel obviously but the r32's are smaller, lighter, handles better, has better fuel consumption and its chassis feels that little bit more performance orientated. The R33 is a nice balance between both but the R34 being the best feel of all where it some how feels like a family car then you hit the twisties and its predictable and sharp. Stock for stock they are fairly close in performance until the R33 gets an ecu in to it then the R32 simply can't keep up.