Cubes

I'd think ~4000rpm is more realistic for a gt3540 .63 on an rb25 or 26.

R34 turbo is essentially the R33 Series 2 turbo with the larger VG30 OP6 turbine housing. It will be laggier.. The R33 S2 turbo is still the best bet closely followed by the S1 turbo. I know of an rb20det that ran up on the boostworx dyno; rb25 turbo, good fmic, straight through 3" exhaust, ebc holding 14psi to redline & remapped ecu made 190rwkw.

RB25 turbo all the time every time. VG30 turbo is nothing more than an rb20det turbo with slightly larger housings. The RB25 turbo runs a larger compressor wheel, so it has the capability to flow more air.

The rb30 is illegal in the skyline unless you have it emissions tested and an engineer looks over it and states it meets ADR's.

Yes its damn scary how quick it adds up. Also factor in a good diff, another 1k. Then sticky wide tyres :S Never ending.

5k is a reasonable price including labour. My short motor with just forgy's (std rods) cost me 3.8k. The head rebuild port polish valve deshroud clean up etc cost 1.1k Then I dropped the motor in myself. Essentially... Bottom end: Block, crank rods crack tested 87mm Forged pistons & rings Std Rods resized (no need for aftermarket rods in my case as they hold more than I could poke a stick at + I have no need for more than 7500rpm) King HP Bearings Balanced Heinz balancer to race spec. Upper tensioner drilled/tapped Cometic 0.051" MLS headgasket Block decked with suitable finish + a few other little things Head: Rebuild Suitable valve jobs (3 angle etc) Port clean up new stem seals new valve guides valve deshroud combustion chambers cc'd & polished inlet port ported cleaned up and roughened exhaust ported cleaned up and polished oil drains tidied up Off the top of my head thats pretty much it. There was also the added cost of the oil pump and water pump. All the rest gaskets/seals etc was included. ---------- Its very difficult to go past Spoolup with his forged piston and rod deals.

Simply add the new shim to the existing shims. I usually remove the diff by: 1. Drop the sway bar chassis mounts, leave the risers attached. 2. Remove tail shaft. 3. Remove Half shaft bolts (have some one in the car operating the hand brake for the exhaust side as there's little room) Use the old ringy with a spanner end + another ring to get leverage trick. 4. I drop the hicas down a touch via its 2 bolts so I can easily get to the diff rear nuts 5. Remove the rear diff mount nuts 6. Place the std sizzor jack under the front of the diff to hold it up 7. Remove the front diff mountings 8. Loop a piece of thin rope around the subframe and under the rear to middle of the diff and have the rope sticking out the wheel arch tied to a piece of wood to hold on too 9. As your mate or other half in my case slowly lowers the diff via the rope wind down the sizzor jack and wiggle the diff out past the exhaust etc. When removing the diff center from the housing with a small jimmy bar (supercheap have $8 ones) make sure you take a photo or something of how the shims under the main caps are positioned. I mark them with a white paint texta. Don't forget to remove the half shafts before attempting to lever the center out lol... Not quite sure what I was thinking, I'll blame it on being tired. The short half shaft may be really stuck in there, I use an extension bar with a rubber mallet through the center of the diff. Just be sure to be carefull when positioning it. Getting the diff back up in to the cradle... Its a heavy bastard so use the rope to help lift the sucker up, I first lift the front up and sit it on the sway bar, then with the help of my other half with the rope in her hand I lift and wiggle the center back in. TOO easy..

I ran mine on 1bar for 100,000km's on the stock ecu. As I said before, if its not pinging or leaning out unless your chasing more power there's no real need for an aftermarket ecu. You can get the stock ecu remaped but there's not all that much to gain with the stock turbo by doing so. $$ for performance with the rb20's stock turbo and ecu remap isn't all that flash.

Its very wise to keep the heat shield on the turbo. Radiant heat is a killer for your heater hoses. Should they spring a pin prick leak (as Troy's found out the hard way) glycol sprayed in a fine mist is highly flammable. As for the front facing plenum... It alters emissions as the inlet is essentially used by car manufactures to tune a motors torque at various rpm. So yes it is defectable.

14psi is fine on the r32 turbo's, throw your r32 actuator back on so you get better boost response. Ensure its not detonating and not leaning out. Don't worry about it. But do tell me.... Is it making 14psi from the word go (~3000-3500rpm) or is it making say 12psi at 3500rpm odd then slowly creeping higher as rpm increases?

sinista, If you have the tools (rattle gun) give your self a day on your first attempt. Lock it good as you don't want to be pissed you wasted a day + skinned knuckles only to have it open wheel still.

Bit of a Bugger Madaz, only saw you a few hours earlier as well. :S

I went with Nolathane as the full front end kit all adjustable was cheap as. The full kit was basically the price of just the whiteline upper control arm bushes. The nolathane bushes apparently don't last as long but time will tell. I've done ~6000km's so far, no squeeks but it has only been 6000km's.

Definitely not. Lag... was a poorly choosen word on my behalf. Regardless of boost being made the gt35r .82 on the 3ltr accelerates harder/earlier than an rb25 with a gt3076r. The RB30det's power delivery is very deceiving, they lack the doughy little acceleration then everything feeling that makes a turbo car feel fast. Instead they come on smoothish (compared to a smaller motor) over a wide rpm. Spool may have something to do with his setup, as I mentioned earlier a large short runner plenum that he swears increased response and spool a little + std exhaust manifold, and a good free flowing exhaust. Do note he also runs the rb25 n/a cams that run a lot more overlap than turbo cams; generally overlap = improved spool. Drop a set of rb20det cams in to the rb25 head and watch it lag. It starts seeing boost as early as 1500rpm. Comparing dyno graphs on the dyno I run on; the Gt35r .82 on the RB30DET has a bee's dick more power everywhere than an rb25det with its stock turbo when tuned making close to 200rwkw. Come 3000rpm and the rb30det's curve detaches from the rb25 curve and heads north very quickly.

bazr33, I wouldn't be too concerned. If you find its just too laggy for day to day driving slowly build up a rb30 short block as the gt35r on the rb30 short block lags less than the GT3071/GT3076 does on an rb25. Loading up in fourth with my foot on the brake a mates rb30det gt35r .82 (plenum, stock exh. manifold, std n/a cams = more overlap = improved spool) makes 1bar by 3000rpm. General driving its all in around 3500rpm. BUT for my needs I would like it a little more response so on my rb30det I've gone the GT3076r. Don't be dissapointed if it doesn't really get up and go with the rb25 until 3rd gear. Its just the nature of large turbo's on smallish motors.

Hey ppls, A bloke I know who runs on the same dyno as I + one of his mates have RB25/30's in their VLT's. They have been sorting the head oil supply issue's. Both run N1 pumps. Initially using std restrictors the head was flooding. 2 x 1.1mm restrictors. Initiaily all seemed good until it was noticed they were getting lifter tick when getting off the throttle from a hard run on the dyno. Off the head came again; 2 x 1.5mm's and all is good but it still does breathe a little. The bloke I know said 1.3mm would 'probably' be ideal. Bit of a nightmare. Those who run by Gary's oil restrictor table which states for the hydraulic head to block the rear and run a single 1.5mm restrictor up front. Have you noticed any lifter tick when getting off the throttle from a hard run on the dyno? Is there a reasonable explaination why 2 seperate motors had the same issue with 2 x 1.1mm restrictors when having 2 1.1 mm restrictors should have more oil flowing in to the head than a single 1.5mm. OR maybe the 1.1mm restrictors reduce pressure within the head too much where as the single 1.5mm provides less flow but more pressure? argg confusing myself.

Don't take my post the wrong way... Wasn't indended to come across as a disagreement. You are right.. A gt3540 on a rb25 you want rev's as it won't really get moving until 4500-5000rpm behind a 5speed. To make the most of the turbo you really want to spin it to 8000rpm and to do that reliabily as with all the rb's it requires some work with rods/pistons and oil.

Well you can't have your cake and eat it.. Most rb25 rebuilds drop the comp ratio down to 8-8.5ish with forged pistons anyway. The rb25 rods are underestimated. Keep rev's under 7500ish rpm and there's no need for forged. They will hold what ever the gt3540 can make. GT40+ and definitely rods.

Bugger.. especially when its so easy to ring an insurance company and get a cover note that covers the car instantly. ------- If it is a written off he will no doubt be selling parts off it. I'm after a few interior bits, drop me a pm and I'll forward my number or vice versa.

The blokes here in Adelaide that have reliably pushed 300rwkw+ on the stock rb25 have all dropped the comp ratio via a thicker headgasket to 8-8.5:1.

Definitely.. Run decent tyres with VLSD and you can get away without having to run a better diff. Run crap tyres that break loose easily and it will single spin and just not hook up.

If you are looking at the RB30... Factor in the sump adaptor, rev reliability issues that require a good balancer + full length oil pump drive. Then consider... Who has done it in a 33GTR?. The R32's have bonnet fouling issues unless you lower the subframe and engine mounts. The R33's 'may' or 'may not' have this same issue. Spoolup does a set of RB30 CP forged pistons & rings with spool forged rods for 2k.

You plan on attempting to push 500rwhp with the 3540?

Grab R31 steer rack boots, they are listed in the book as the same part number.. From memory around $9 each. Its what I used, no problems at all. Not too bad all in all.

With regards to silicon hoses. I bought all my stuff from http://www.siliconeintakes.com/ Absolutely stoked with the quality and service. Very quick postage from the US. Took 5 days in total. I bought all mine in black 4" Joiner (turbo to turbo pipe) 4" to 3" reducer (afm to turbo pipe) 2 x 2.5" joiners 90degree 2.5" to 2" reducer elbow All up inc postage it cost me $100 AUD. Which is cheaper than I could have obtained those parts here in AUS. It was a real pain in the arse to get all black from a local company. Some had one bit another had the other.. Real pain in the arse not to mention expensive when you factor in multiple postage.