Cubes

R31's still cracked the sohc heads. BUT it was less common as their cooling system was just that little bit better. Just a design flaw of the SOHC head. Overheat our DOHC heads and its very rare to crack one.

URAS, So my slightly chirp chirp chirp but not the severe bang bang bang type axle tramp is likely to be shockers and not traction rods? Given that I have replaced my subframe bushes.

Tune + Cam timing.

Nisskid, A mate of mine runs the bilsteins and they are still too low. Unfortunately he has recently been defected because it was too low. From memory the front was too low 10mm and rear 5mm. If you look and ask everyone who's been defected and what for its almost always.. 1. too low 2. tint 3. too loud I've almost been done for tint so I removed it on the spot. Height, even though it looks stock a tape measure was put to it. Its simply not worth the hassle. Are yours on the highest setting? Are you able to measure the front and rear heights?

lol yer I tried to hold off.

Just the bare bottom end inc. forged pistons, crack test everything, slightly more expensive king HP bearings, block decked, rods resized, oil drain mods, gaskets, mls headgasket & heinz balanced cost me 3.6k. I was quite happy with that, probably similiar in costing to yours + I had a few extra bits done that really didn't need doing.

And with the SOHC head no doubt overheated a few times when they crack every 150,000km's.

Apparently 2wd vs 4wd makes no difference to power output. Dirtgarage did a few back to backs some time ago. rbman has had his tuned at shauns and then had it on the dyno at grahams for a power run. It made 10rwkw less from memory. Different dyno. Mainline vs dd dyno.

Typically when people say N/a cams are more agressive it means they run more overlap/lump/lope etc. Turbo's due to their high back pressure benifit at high rpm by running cams with little overlap. The r33's vct system. On idle there is next to no overlap, just off idle vct enables and adjusts the inlet cam so there's some healthy overlap. Overlap helps mid range and spools the turbo quicker. As high rpm approaches where exhaust manifold/scroll pressurs begins to rise the vct again disables to reduce overlap. From memory rb20det cams are 240duration 7.8mm lift on both the inlet and exh and have been setup with next to no overlap. The R32 rb25de runs a 240duration 7.8mm lift on the inlet and a 232 7.3mm lift on the exhaust. The rb25de cams run more overlap; exactly what I forget.

Fit the rb26 rods and crank to your 25 block. No rego issues.

Fingers crossed...

She's only a .82; xr6t dump flange so easy enough to get a hold of. The turbine wheel outlet is 3" and ~2" wastegate. I've attached a pic of dangerman4's dump when he made his up. Can't wait to get the sucker on.. Been a long time coming. I expect it to be all in by ~3000rpm and with 20odd psi up around 300rwkw. I sourced all black silicon (2.5" joiners, 4" joiner, 4" to 3" reducer & 2.5" to 2" 90degree reducer) for $100 delivered from the US. Bargain.

Given this is not on the car yet I won't be making it. Chances are it will be on the car but chances are it wont be tuned. Madaz, is yours still making the same power as last? It won't on Grahams dyno. Mainlines tend to read quite conservative.

haha they probably do what I do to a lot.. Pretend I'm going to run and then take off slow.

I replaced my subframe bushes and found axle tramp has reduced greatly and torque steer feeling through second gear has completely dissapeared; on the dyno the whole sub frame was moving around a hell of a lot. Most of the time it doesn't axle tramp but when it does its now a light little thud not like the old BANG BANG BANG your going to break an axle bang. :S The subframe bushes Improved axle tramp 10 fold. I am still on stock shocks and springs as almost everything aftermarket is lowered which I don't want. Minimum legal height here in SA is 360mm mine sits ~365mm with stock bits. I'm considering a set of teins as they have the screw type heigh adjustment that can be adjusted to stock/legal height. What about the traction rods? I had a look at mine and they do feel a 'tad' loose, possibly the bush is stuffed which causes tramp. Reading up on them 'apparently' traction rods in good nick prevent tramp?

I had trouble finding the saf-xa 75/140. It all seems to be the 80w140 supposively new forumla with some lsd additive that the fords and holdens require. Works well in mine, no chatter just wheel chirp.

I feel for the fly's they cut sik.. bzzzzzzzt bzzzbztzbztzbztzzzzzzzzz.

Paully, Wait until you get a little older buddy... That back and shoulder hair begins to get a little longer; its quite disturbing when your outside doing a little gardening wearing a tank top and you have to pick fly's out that become trapped in your shoulder hair. :S I'm wog too.. Northern

From memory just the clutch master cyl is around $75 and the slave cyl around $40. So around 1.5hrs ($160) to fit up = $275.

Refer to the workshop and autostore SA sticky (at the top of the page). http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=123887 All clutch and brake.. Grab their details from the stickied thread.

When the oil temp is 70degree's. Whats pressure?

I see roughly 5kg/mm or what ever it is at around 3000rpm, by 3500rpm its pushing 6-6.5. If I run castrol 10w60 from 3000rpm i see 6-6.5.

I see similiar oil pressure around 2000rpm when the motor is cold. Your seeing it when warm? :S

There's a bloke selling his rb30det gts4 setup in the foresale section. He's in adelaide too. He is willing to seperate so grab the bits you need. The hard work has already been done adapting the 4wd sump adaptor and sorting out the oil pump pickup, if you were to grab the bottom end remove the crank and have a crank collar fitted and throw it back together maybe with a set of new bearings. Might be worth looking in to. 4wd + RB30DET + GT35r .82 is near the perfect combination for close to 400rwkw with power coming on well from 2000rpm and hard from 3500rpm. Start planning to keep it looking stockish, so space the subframe down and lower the motor slightly so you can retain the std plenum. OR.. Go for a set of twin gt2530 (gt2860-5's) with a GTR head for around 350rwkw.

For you R33 GTST blokes building up an rb30det should cost near the same as building up your rb25. The only additional costs are running the vct oil feed line and blocking off the heads std vct oil feed. Of which in total should only cost a couple hundred max. If you run a plenum; no need to drop the motor.... If you don't well... $70-$100 for an engineering shop to lower the engine mounts. So in total to build the rb30 over an rb25 were looking at ~$300 more and maybe for you r33 s2 owners another 300-400 for the oil pump drive collar which pulls the additional cost up to around $600-$800 there abouts. Its not all that much considering the streetability you gain with a large turbo. For example rb30det's, rb25det's on the dyno I run on; the rb30det running a gt35r .82 in the low rpm range doesn't give anything away poiwer wise to an rb25det running its stock turbo all tuned up and pushing ~200rwkw at the wheels. Thats quite impressive when you consider the gt35r .82 has the capability to push a shade under 400rwkw.