Cubes

How did you go?

I've found a good little test for the VLSD is.... Wait for a little wet weather.. Pull out of a side street turning left briskly (no clutch dumps etc) and if the diff is fairly nackered it will spin up the left wheel. If its fine it will send the car sideways. For near stock power levels (up to 200rwkw) I've found the VLSDS to handle the power not to badly. BUT drop a 3ltr in it and its all over; the vlsd hub simply can't hold the torque and power delivery harshness of the 3ltr. I've compared J30 R200 VLSD (vg30det) to the 29spline GTST vlsd and the J30's viscous hub is meatier. I've seen one hold just over 300rwkw from an rb25det that went on to run a low 11sec pass with slicks. The J30 vlsd runs the same 6 bolt half shafts as the gtr; so a good cheap option for some one upgrading their rear end slowly.

Supply and demand.. The N1 has been cheaper for some time.

A really easy fix that I've done and has continued to work for the last 5 years is to solder the lugs together. Difficult to explain.. Crack open the switch remove the contacts and solder the appropriate little lugs together. The only down side is now my high beam stays on with the low beam. I say down side as it 'may' overheat something but given its been 5years of use with nothing blown or burnt out I'd say its safe. I just replaced my first set of head light globes too. 5years isn't too bad I feel. I've been meaning to wire up a relay setup for the headlights.. It is the better way to do it.

It does when the bypass is wide open; in essence the thicker oil creating high pressure also causes a huge effect on the flow rate of the pump as it has to dump a lot more oil to hold its specified oil pressure. With a 5w40 I see ~90-95psi of oil pressure over 3500rpm.

It 'may' work out cheaper to source a second hand 300zxt 87-89 CLSD long nose R200 and throw the center in to your short nose housing. Not 100% certain its possible but I have heard of the blokes in the US doing the same thing with their 240sx's. (S13's). So it should work. 29spline 12mm ring gear bolts so it should just bolt in.

Their turbo failures are caused by a couple of things.. The oil screen/filter blocks causing the turbo to starve. The paint flakes and metal dags within the inlet pipe which is a well known problem. Fords fix was to rip the pipe off and sand blast it. Thats what they did with my buddy's anyway. Just poor build quality.

Dags/paint flakes took out the compressor wheel.

RB30/26 GTR with its high 4.11 gearing is a good match for response and acceleration up and rolling at any speed/any gear to the xr6t with a similiar peak power to weight ratio. A near perfect package for a street gtr in my opinion is a single gt35r .82 (possibly .5 xr6t comp cover to pick up mid range) bolted on to the side of the rb30/26. Mild cams, good exh. manifold, and you can push close to 400rwkw. They get off the line very quickly without bogging down + almost a little too much wheelspin with 4000-4500rpm on board. So no massive high rpm boy racer style launches required. But saying that... You already own a few jap cars.. The XR6T cruiser mildly modified is good fun. I often go for a bit of a cruise with a buddy who owns one thats making 270rwkw with only a tune and a bit of boost. Its a great package. Gets up and goes hard without it sounding like one is 'hooning'. He has owned it for a few years now racked up 80,000kms and has done in. 1 x turbo, 1 x gearbox and 1 x diff. Typical aussy built car. My previous VS 5ltr 5speed went the same way after a few mods with the addition of cracking the rear irs subframe. lol

Link? Its not listed on Garretts website.

Or grab a can Electronic Cleaning Solvent from jaycar. Spray it plenty and by the time the afm is back on the car its all dry. The jaycar stuff I've found strips the oil off better than the dicksmith gear. http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...=&SUBCATID= Its also GREAT for removing water off a motherboard quickly after you've washed it in the sink. lol (damn dirty smokers; you should see what it does to your computer) I usually hit it twice.. initially with the cleaning solvent then wash then hit it again to quickly remove the water.

I have no idea Red.. Regarding your stuck coil over. I had to use a fence post on the end of a breaker bar on one of mine. Your good at persisting; give it another shot.

I've done a little digging and have some pics one of which is mine. Apparently the R200 clutch diff from nissan is a torque sensing diff where the greater the load placed upon it via the tail shaft the harder it locks up. So makes for good street ability. There are 2 types that are available from Nissan. One that is the std and the other that contains the nismo multi clutch pack. Basically the std diff uses a spacer of sorts that takes the place of the nismo's multi clutch pack. There's a mob in the US that sell all the clutches required for next to nothing. ~18usd per clutch. You can identify the two by its ramps. Standard Nismo The nismo's pin is round with its ramps being flatter. Easy to tell the difference after looking at the pics for a little. Apparently the stock clsd has issues with ripping the fingers off the clutch disk when running reasonable power with sticky tyres. The Nismo multiclutch pack sorts the issue as its considerbly tighter. Correct me if I'm wrong as I've only repeated what I've read else where. And the exploded view again. Apparently the heavy duty R200 CLSD's part number is LOM59-XX 0YY. XX being the ring gear bolt and YY being the spline count. The LOM59 (nismo) runs more friction plates and a shallower ramp angle.

lol at the cop car.

But they do have everything to do with the wheel nuts coming loose after a short drive as DjeMz has stated. Use stock wheel nuts DjeMz, quite possible the aftermarket wheel nuts are not suitable for the wheel type.

djr81, My std center has been tightened up and with moderate throttle is very tight. As mentioned in earlier posts with moderate throttle it shudders, chirps and skips the inside wheel. The beauty of it is with light throttle limping around in car parks its 100% like a stock diff. No lock, no chirp nothing 100% streetable so to speak. The aftermarket I have driven and been in are very harsh with their engagement, the slightest throttle and they are locking causing shudders, chirps and skips which is a masive pain in the arse when parking, when taking it easy and not to mention when police are close following or in the same car park. What is the benefit of an aftermarket diff having such an aggressive ramp angle? I can see its great for drift but for general street and track use? why?

Its really not difficult to own an R34 GTT at the age of 19. They can be picked up for ~25k ish. Back when I was 19 I bought a 25k VS 5ltr 5speed commodore, ~3years old back then.

Interesting... So with enough power and the correct conditions the std mechanical will single leg it where as the aftermarket won't. I wonder exactly what is contained within the nismo diff kit for the gtr/gts4's.

Dave, first gear was much improved as it felt usable instead of simply buzzing up but for second and third there was a noticable loss in response; generally it felt slower getting out of corners and was slightly slower on rolling accelerations (against a mates car). If I could keep the current second and third ratio's and throw in a longer first gear the 4.3:1 ratio would be perfect. Gary (SK) did tell me to stick with the 4.3's but I refused to listen. lol Its also interesting to note UAS went for a 4.3:1 R200 in their 300zx track car.

I had my diff tightened up recently (gtr/gts4 center). The bloke said... "its not a 2 way its just a standard factory center" Unless I misunderstood. Compression locks (in the wet) it locks both rear wheels?!? :S It definitely doesn't appear to lock anywhere near as hard on decel as it does on accel. Give it light throttle it doesn't lock on sharp corners, give it just a little bit more than normal acceleration and it chirps the inside wheel and shudders the car. On decel sharp corners (i've tried first gear etc) it doesn't appear to lock chirp the inside wheel etc?? I can't remember how my buddy's 2way felt so not sure. lol

The R32 GTS4 runs the same 2 way mechanical as the GTR does. Only difference is its ratio. 4.375:1 vs the GTR's 4.11:1. 4.375:1 FTW. I run a tightened up gtr/gts4 center with my 4.363:1 GTST diff ratio. Never single legs it and is perfect with regards to how much throttle is required for it to start locking. Drive around in tight car parks all day without it chirping/banging and carrying on; unless you give it harder than normal acceleration. Boss Automotive in Lonsdale. Find out what its worth to rebuild. Fingers crossed some one comes through with the nismo clutch pack in the other diff thread. Apparently ~$300. + $300 or so in labour. New diff for 600 with some tough nismo clutch packs. More than half the price of buying a new harsh aftermarket + fitting. Blows its cost out to almost $1500

The issue is the diff ratio.. I've tried... I'm now back with the 4.363:1 ratio. With the 4.11 or 4.08 you'll notice less response and slightly increased lag. Increased lag, strange yes but its what it feels like. The motor spends more time trying to accelerate through the rpm that doesn't generate boost. Once on boost it looses that hard snap turbo mid range feel the 4.3:1 ratio gives. The S13 5bolt is a direct bolt up and runs a 4.08:1 ratio. The R33 5bolt 4.11:1 also bolts up but requires a few little bodgy mods.

Looks clean Ryan. How much did you pick it up for?

Its neither.. Definitely not an R32, R33, VG30DET, rb26 anything... Its some sort of garrett gt25 or gt28 turbo. Does it have the regular T3 flange? BB turbo's are not servicable. So its not reco'd. It will be either new or used. When so called reconditioning turbo's they use the old housings; throw out the old center and replace it with a new item. So essentially a bran new turbo minus the housings which is not to be concerned about anyway.

Stock Black R32. Also saw you last week I think it was towing a magna? on Blacks road, I was at the round about. Some crazy in the passenger seat was waving like mad. lol