Cubes

I can't say I noticed a rattle down low but I did notice an increase in a labouring type feel at real low rpm. With the stock flywheel on there was no labouring vibration type feel at all. Not that you should be selecting a high gear and going WOT at 1000rpm anyway.

I do. A bov is there for emissions and drivability. It hurts response as the turbo must refill the fmic and its pipework. You obviously haven't tried no bov? IF what garrett state *causes thrust bearing failure* a mate of mines VLT wouldn't have cracked 200,000km's on its STOCK JOURNAL bearing turbo while pushing 12-13psi for many years prior. Have a read of - http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_1457/article.html Simon from Nizpro is well respected within the industry. --------- Ash, Your going to have to do what Sinista has done, lengthen the afm to turbo pipe. OR step the size up to a 4" 90degreeish bend. Only way your going to get around it. Shaun also recommends no bov; get him to tune it out, he may also recommend the inlet pipe mod. Also..... Does your AFM still run its mesh? This helps prevent stalls also *in my experience*.

I've never seen a meat truck. :S When there was the multiple fatality down here on South road where a motor bike cleaned up some one crossing the road and then a following car cleaned up the motor bike 2 ambulances came and carted them both away. I was putting petrol just after the police turned up, the police instantly put sheets over the people laying on the ground. Was pretty nasty. :S

Depends what you think loosing torque is. I found the car felt as if it had more torque especially in first and second when accelerating. I.e it felt as if it accelerated faster. Launching the car required more rev's as it would bog down easier. I was able to feel road inclines much more. Free reving the motor was felt more crisp Rev/gear matching on corner entry was much easier High rpm gearchanges seemed easier, appeared to reduce the occasional missed gears and crunches. Overall.. I quite liked my lightened flywheel. I wouldn't be going too light though. 5-5.5kg's is what I would be happy with.

The skylines (well mine at least) actually tracks pretty damn straight when turning both rear wheels. Just an ever so slight twitch to the left or right and sits there. My old VS 5ltr 5speed (ecu cam done) used to tank slap all over the road, it was quite dougy under 3000rpm due to the cam but once it cleared its throat it went well.. :S The little skylines is extremely easy to handle with that respect. And it is all about the drive as Dale has said. I sold the v8 as it didn't provide that lunge out of a corner as the turbo'd skyline does. Nothing beats its. An uncle of mine has a LS1 285kw senator; I was quite dissapointed how dull it was pulling out of corners. It just didn't have that wow its really wanting to break loose type feel. It just wound out slowly. My old VS was much more fun. Probably a combination of the added weight of the new commo and what felt like longer gearing. Just didn't 'feel' fast.

Disco, you worry too much. There's no need to spend BIG $$ on an <300rwkw RB. A stock rb30e bottom end with a rb25 head and gt30 turbo fits your requirements nicely. Start throwing pistons and rods at it and you throw the bang for buck well and truley out the window. Pistons and rods for less than 300rwkw simply isn't required. If you get tired of shifting up at 6500rpm throw a plenum on it, loose nothing thats noticable down low or through the mid only to extend power through to 7000-7500rpm on stock cams. Plenty good and a sporty pleasure to drive. The 26 head is a better starting point as you don't have to spend extra on a decent plenum; it already has one. The problem with the 25 head isn't the head its self, its the inlet tuning. A couple here in Adelaide that ran good power on stock rb30 bottom ends. Sky30 - 370rwkw (a 310,000km rb30 at that lol) s3girl - 471rwkw Both have rev's limited to 7000rpm as its not wise reving 7500rpm+ on stock rods with nissan bolts.

Butters, The point is if its pinging enough for it to have an effect on water temps then you won't have to worry about it pinging for much longer.. Smashed ring lands. Extremely silly for the tuner to suggest not to worry as water temp correction is not designed as a bandaid for a motor with excessive detonation. As I said.. I've had mine pinging, also have datalogit logs and there is no noticable increase in water temp. As soon as it pings I get off it. Keep holding your foot down and your asking for a stuffed motor. I set the pfc to pull out ignition timing once it hits 90degree's+. An RB with the correct thermostat should run in the low to mid 80's in cold weather. Temps may rise a touch to ~90degree's or so in hot weather with the a/c on.

Thread closed. <walks off to wasteland>

Did you hear me? I typed in CAPS so you'd hear me. Madaz loves caps.

YEAAAAAA... BEFORE I START CUTTING FULLY SIK WITH MY MOD STICK and fluffy dice

ax, I've always wondered.. Why the RB30 photo in your avtar? Plans for the rb30 when the rb25 lets go? Not that it will providing its been tuned well. You've lowered the static comp + a set of cams to lower the dynamic compression ratio so chances are it will never let go just slowly get tired; unless you strap a set of slicks on it and discover oil surge.

Its not that you need a larger inlet manifold its that the std item is 'tuned' for the 2.5ltr so its not optimal and causes power to nose over a little early which essentially leaves you with a narrow power band when running a GT35R + sized turbo. How a plenum affects power with a smaller GT30r I'm not sure as I've only ever seen results of GT35r's on the 3ltrs. R33_racer and another here on SAU have ran GT3040's with plenums and had no issues with power nosing over early (before 6000rpm) in the rpm so I suspect confidently the same goes for my gt30r. Once its all sorted I will be performing a few back to backs using a CPC plenum. I had a thread some time ago where I shared the results but some were skeptical and completely missed the point I was attempting to illustrate. One or two including a well known workshop jumped in to the thread and stated they have had the std plenums pushing 350rwkw+, yes big deal its not the topic of converstation. It was about power placement through out the rpm and how inlet runner/plenum tuning affects this. Manufactures have been tuning inlet systems to play with power/torque at the rpm required when taking in to consideration gearing, drive type (sports or lazy family car) etc.. So I really don't see what the dispute was about. http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/5003932-description.html

I have a S2 R32. Whats actually wrong with their side intrusion bars? Mine look absolutely massive, much larger and thicker than what was in my old VS commodore. :S They occupy 1/2 of the door with only a small area at the top and bottom that is not covered; the intrusion bars look like a big arsed commerical roof support beam. Mine was imported back in late 98 with 67,000km's on the clock. Interior really did look like a bran spanking new car. Its now cracked 238,000km's.

Do refer to the bad traders sticky within the forsale section. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=65046 Ka Man Ho is listed. If you do receive details from a newish member that matches report the post notifying section mods.

The Jellybean keyfinder prevents legs being blown off. ------------- Video encoding? Big HD, Firewire? Something along the lines of the below will do well.. $258 - CPU: Core 2 Duo E6420 (No point going slower unless you wish to overclock) $169 - M/Board: Gigabyte 965P-DS3P (MSY have no DS3's in stock and are not sure when they will have stock) $097 - RAM: 2gb (2x1gb) Kingston DDR2 667 (No need for 800mhz for general windows stuff, definitely not worth the extra unless you wish to overclock or game) $195 - HD: Seagate 500gb (I've found Seagate to be more reliable than WD, never had one go belly up; had multiple WD's go belly up, all though I still have an old 20gb BB WD drive chuging along. ) $081 - VIDEO: ECS 7300GT (or spend another $100 for the 7900GS if you want to play the odd game) $055 - DVD DRIVE: Anything.. I prefer LG but MSY don't have then. $145 - CASE: Antec NSK6500 An even $1000. That meets your >1gb of ram, 6usb, firewire & network requirements.

I'm fine with that. As we come across instrument shops within our own states it would help full for all of us to post their details. They appeared fairly certian that magnetising or demagnetising the speedo wouldn't affect the odometer. What are your thoughts? :S

Well we all came to an agreement. lol.

Sounds spot on to me. I believe I wasn't clear enough in explaining. The same car with a smaller turbo may very well make the same power as the car with the larger turbo at half throttle. This is where I attempted to suggest a fixed loss theory is incorrect. Part throttle or full throttle simply alters the amount of power; exactly the same as a larger or smaller turbo. Obviously I wasn't clear enough.

Yes.. If they haven't dropped a timing light on it and guessed where it was prior it may very well be running either less or more ignition.

Sinista.. Grab some thing that you know has had some R&D put in to it. ISLEEP Plenum. Custom Plenum Creations. http://www.calaisturbo.net/showthread.php?t=46459 Thread starting post has been updated to reflect current pricing.

I still stand by a fixed drivetrain loss + a percentage. Its obvious there's not a fixed loss. Street cars can with no problems cruise around and not require diff and manual trans coolers. Then look at the old Bathurst R32 GTR and you see diff and manual trans coolers hanging off them. Increased power = increased friction within the driveline and motor its self; all of of which requires coolers to keep them reliable. IF there is no added friction at WOT we would require trans and diff coolers when simply cruising around the streets. Simply not the case. WHICH suggests there is indeed a percentage value some where in the equation. On the dyno; cruise with partial throttle. There's absolutely no way the driveline at this point is sucking 65kw. There must be a fixed loss + a percentage. Its IMPOSSIBLE for there to be a simple fixed value loss for all power levels. Its silly to think so. I make reference to a car at cruise as it is comparable to one making 200rwkw and another 500rwkw. The 500rwkw may be at cruise when making 200rwkw. Hope that makes sense.

Just try another router, it may work better with your hardware combination.. Can get expensive doing so though. Head over to whingepool and see if any one else is running a similiar hardware and what router they are using. http://www.whirlpool.net.au/

BUT....... For the power levels we are talking its pretty much around the mark, which really is all that matters. As I mentioned in an earlier post. I believe its a fixed value + a percentage as with increased load = increased friction through bearings, gears etc. What those values are I have NFI as no dyno is 100% accurate nor is an engine dyno. Its a rough figure. Talking about accurate exactly what is accurate.. Ford or holdens method of measuring flywheel horsepower figures. What standard does nissan use to determine flywheel horsepower figures?

I can get the speedo recalibrated at 300km/h or 320km/h depending on how you plan to space the numbers etc. He charges $90 to do so. Thinking more about the ratio box. Its definitely not going to work. It will work with respect to displaying the correct speed on the dash with the new faces BUT it will slow the odometer and incorrectly report the amount of km's travelled. So for our Mechanical R32 speedo's the ONLY way is to drop the cluster in to an instrument shop to be calibrated. PM me if your still interested in doing this... Postage costs etc etc it may be worth while finding a local bloke?

So what is it then? You discount the percentage yet give no indication how to determine 'roughly' what the fwhp/kw would be. 100% up it all the time. One reason why GTR's back in bathurst ran gearbox and diff coolers.