Cubes

erm yes you did say that didn't you lol.

Spotted Serity1 i think it is on blacks road.. RB20DET powa towing a magna. Then realised I had blown a head light. First headlight globe in 5.5years of owner ship.

Nice. What brand 2way did you go with? My stocker GTR diff center thats been tightened up feels awesome. SO SO much more grip on corner exit.

S/h RB20DET box is worth $500 from the wreckers. 'Some' attempt to rip us off and slug $800-$900. Always shop around. I've never had issues with the castrol synthetic oil in my box. I believe its what Roy uses also; unsure if he's recently jumped camp or not.

580 atw isn't all that much for a mls h/g to fail. Head over to ct.com and the supra forums to see what those blokes are running. + Get the block and head finish correct; you will find your problems will dissapear.

wow just stumbled upon this!! White for me & GTST. Regarding the gtst's being mechanical... The signal is converted to an elec signal in the cluster and then sent to the ECU. Is there anyway to modify that signal there or impossible? A mob here in SA do the speedo ratio box's, apparently for ~$110 but will double check monday. Beale Instruments +61 8 8445 6644 I'll be needing the ratio box anyhow so its no biggy for myself.

1.00 JPY = 0.0100254 AUD, thats crazy. What can I buy.................

ahh bugger.. Missed this thread I; I was throwing the diff back in the car after having it tightened up. I went for bit of a cruise; in the hills up at lofty was crazy. Fog everywhere I couldn't see 10m in front. :S So back down through city etc.. I think I spotted Andy? Down on Greenhill road at the traffic lights. I was stopped at the intersection on portrush. ax53b70p25, Try and keep cruises as such low key as we don't want the attention. It started off well but got a little messy. There is a few members of this board that are in the force so please keep it smart. Next cruise thread... Use the report button to keep it clean.

Cheers Darren. I'll have a better look at mine maybe tomorrow. I've attached an old pic I dug up. The stock airbox positions the afm close towards the block... Looking at it now not sure a 90degree 4" bend will be suitable as its radius won't be tight enough. I'll have to make it fit.

Awesome.. I have had a quick fiddle and it 'appears' a 90degree will bolt up but it may require a little chopping etc.. 70degree may just be spot on. I'm still on the gtst stock airbox but with a 100mm cai in to the bottom of the box. Its going to be tight. Are you running a pod Darren? I can't remember.

I don't remember u saying average install either.. You said something along the lines of it doesn't simply work out of the box as it 'should'. AFM to turbo inlet Pipe.

Backing off but not fully.. Sounds like exactly like the drivability issue I am thinking of. Try changing your driving style.. Or throw a bigger afm to turbo pipe on it as chances are it will be close to sucking shut anyway.

Don't have the dump flange as of yet, I priced up a few bits and they didn't have the 4" 90degree s/steel bend. ~1-1.5week wait. Soooooo I said I'd hang off until they get all the bits. Probably a good thing also. The xr6t flange from AAA was $45 and the 4" 90degree bend $50. All the little bits are adding up to quite a whack. Any help is appreciated.

Your still running the stock rubber afm to turbo pipe? I've driven other R32's and R33's *all with stock turbo's* that all do this under a specific driving condition. Its not exactly easy to get the jerk and I can't always get it to do it easily. You must only just bring it up on boost then quickly back off but with your foot still on the throttle; the car then does a little jerk; almost like it bogs then accelerates normally again. A larger afm to turbo pipe helps reduce this. Adjust your driving style.

Clean AAC

URAS, definitely not a bolt on job as you have stated before. Fingers crossed with a well setup dump that promotes wastegate flow I won't have issues with boost creep. I may get away with it as I'm going to be running 20 odd pounds. Push it until it stops making power on pump. If not.. I'll rip the housing off and throw a larger flapper on it and problem solved. --------- Cheerz Darren. Now to make a dump pipe. :S Who did you have tig yours up? My mig skills are not the best. I'll be running a 3" turbine dump and 2" wasteagate but I want to run the wastegate all the way down and have it join back in after the last bend that heads towards the cat. If it fits.. Yours looked pretty tight.

Its a garrett actuator, 15psi. lol at the washers.. It was just for a test to see how much travel the wastegate had when setup with the correct preload compared to with 9mm preload. I would never have put it on the car like that. I have zipped down to ATS and picked up a suitable sized female rod 15mm longer. Works a charm, with the bracket and kink in the rod it all lines up spot on, but only just. Bill said garrett throw a generic one in thats not suitable. lol --------- Also for others that read this and have the same garrett IW with garrett bracket and actuator you will need to buy some bolts. I grabbed what was called M8 x 1.25 16mm long bolts. The bolts on the comp cover at too short and only just grab the compressor cover housing; apparently they can pull out damaging the thread once assembled.

Hey ppls, Checking everything over I noticed I have to place a hell of a lot of preload ~9mm on the actuator to get it over the wastegate flaps stud. This has to reduce travel I thought so I decided to check how much it opened the flap. At full travel it only opens the flap ~25-30degree's max. The flap still looks relatively flat and to look inside the housing past the flap you must look around its side. Its almost as if the actuators arm is too short yet its adjusted all the way out. So I spaced it out ~9mm with washers to check its travel then. Its setup with just a pinch of preload so it keeps the flap nice and tight. Essentially the same amount of preload the stock turbo runs. Now at full travel it opens a good 60-70degree's. What are your thoughts peoples. Has any one else with a GT35r or GT30 IW housing with the garrett actuator noticed the same 'possible' issue? I'll be trying to track down an actuator with a longer arm or might just end up modifying this one. Weld a little piece in to it.

You still looking at the 3ltr Disco? I really think its the only way if you want some decent boost in by 2600rpm. If your ever down in adelaide drop me a pm; you can take it for a little spin.

For streeter if we want excellent low mid range we are never going to get away from high turbine inlet pressures. If we do by upsizing the scroll it results in less usable average power. Yes it will make some good top end and all round be more efficient but that really doesn't matter when 90% of the time we are playing around between 3000-5000rpm. Tune the setup accordingly; street you - need good boost response in the low load first and second gears. Big scrolls reduce this response dramatically. On the dyno the smaller scroll vs larger scroll doesn't show whats going on in the low load gears. From what I've seen dyno results and drivability on the street. Up to 300rwkw the GT30r .82 is the way to go with stock exh and plenum. 300-400rwkw = gt35r .82 + a nice exh. manifold and plenum.

Don't loose sleep over it. The head sitting higher than the radiator isn't a problem providing its bled correctly + I don't believe its anywhere near sitting higher than the radiator, those big rocker covers pump it all up to make it look like it sits higher. The SOHC head cracking is simply poor head design. If the SOHC gets a little too warm the heads crack. R31's have a better alum. radiator that keeps things cooler, a better more open front end that allows more air to the radiator. VL's biggest and most common problem these days is the radiator's baffle design that rusts allowing water to bypass the core; as a result they get warm and crack. Then there's also the failed viscous fan that fails; temperature creeps up and bang cracked head. Of which also applies to the R31's. I've seen a few also have blocked coolant passages in both the block and head/plenum/inlet. All of which are age/lack of maint. related. Do a little google.. http://www.google.com.au/search?hl=en&...acked&meta= Fear not, its just the crapo sohc head design; aus market... chances are it was a rushed job, why sink the development $$ in to a market that is so small.

Nice.. 254duration in/exh 8.5mm in/exh Should also be around 25degree's overlap which is quite a bit. Help that big 1.06 spool. ---- When are you planning on getting them fitted?

Hylomar it is. Thanks ----- exxu1 I know many with both cometic and trust.. No issues. Some (only know of one sinista i think it is) thats had issues with the cometic not sealing correctly; 100% comes down to block and head surface finish.

I was so so close to simply throwing a slide highflow on and pushing 250rwkw comfortably for half the price this has cost me. I think my problem was I drove my mates 270rwkw rb30det quite a bit and it began to feel like it needed more power. Which scared me so I lashed out and bought this sucker that should push up around 270-280rwkw easily and with a bit of leaning on it should crack 300rwkw. Will be plenty for the light rwd r32.