Cubes

Why did you buy from one of SAU's sponsers? They have good FMIC kits with much better end tank design for $345 + delivery.

Not the case buddy. The HKS3037 is a 52trim, the HKS3037S is a 56trim.

Mafia... So why 18psi? Didn't make any more power with anything more? Steve an old member of these forums had a HKS3037S on his stock internal rb25det. That ran a shade over 20psi with a set of baby cams and made 320 something rwkw. Given it was running the hks .8 turbine housing. Then there's the other bloke on here I forget his alias; hks3037s also recently pushed 323rwkw on 20 something psi. Sooo... Was it the GT2876r 48t with the machined up rb housing you had previously?

MSY is well priced. They've been open in Adelaide for a good 3 months now.

Is there a compressor map laying around for this 7blade 76mm comp wheel? It wasn't the GT2876 you had? http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...6R_705330_1.htm What looks good in theory doesn't always pan out in practice. :S Maybe the .63 is wasting a little of the additional compressor flow of the 6blade 76mm 56t comp wheel where as the previous setup was a little better matched? Its always a compromise.

Interesting......... How did the RB housing look size wise compared to the garrett .63 housing? Maybe the combination of the slightly smaller rb housing + cropped turbine wheel made it just that bit nicer to live with every day.

Awesome result. And a .63 garret IW + water/meth = very nice streeter. Top work. So........... Whats the boost vs rpm your seeing in top gear? A little boost creep I see... Whats your dump pipe setup? Are you running a split 2" wastegate and 3" dump? Regardless considering the power being made and the small exh. a/r the garrett IW is doing well. I've gone with the gt3076 .82 iw 1bar w/g on the 3ltr so also expecting close to 300rwkw on the usual 18-20psi, GO GT35 every one said.. bah I have no need for a turbo that has the capability to make close to 400rwkw, its a waste of response and spool. I hope the mid range of the smaller turbo doesn't fry the tyres too easily.

Check the motors not breathing excessively, fit a catch can. If your still getting a little oil in piping look at the turbo. Failing that try another tuner.

7000rpm was an example stating he doesn't bounce it off the limiter and drop it. BUT.... You'll find as you run larger turbo's start making more power you'll be required to raise rev's higher to get off the line without it bogging down. Even the RB20DET GTS4's get off the line nice and easily with bugger all rev's as they boost fairly quickly and make good boost. BIG turbo's tend not to make as much boost in the lower gears, which is why a stock turbo'd rb can hang next to an rb making 100-200rwkw more with a larger turbo until third gear when rolling on the throttle from say 50-60km/h or so. Nothings changed from 10years ago.... It used to be Hallet Cove and Morphette Vale when I was hooning around in my teens and early 20's. Walk the streets down at Hallette Cove was extremely dangerous it = guaranteed bashing by the local 'crews'. Morphett vale was fairly bad. Just be smart; don't stare, don't drive like a dick cutting people off and unless you have numbers ignore if some one try's to start shit, simply don't talk back and most importantly know when to zip it and take off as you don't know who they are. Its everywhere.... When I was young and silly I had my car kicked and punched just out side of town near melbourne street because I wouldn't do a burn out. Pay back was fun but it did leave me feeling a little flat to be honest.

What size rims can u fit on the rear? I recently had a set of 18 x 9's on the rear and they hung out slightly, the front 18 x 8's they sat just right, I tried them on the rear and they too sat perfect. So 8" wide rim +35 tends to fit just nice.

What gas are you running? Our compressors are not designed to deal with the high pressures experienced with R134a gas. Find an aircon specialist that is licensed to deal with R12a; a MUCH better option. I've had both gases in mine and the R12a is much better. I can no longer hear the a/c compressor roar, I can no longer feel when it clicks in and out and the power it sucks out of the motor is hardly noticable UNLIKE R134a. R12a is a more efficient and environ friendly aircon gas than R134a. Don't confuse R12a with R12. They are two different gases.

In the past I have tried the RB26 Airflow curve, fuel and ign. maps in my powerfc and it only just idled; anything off idle it would die in the arse. I'll see how it goes with the rb26 pfc. I suspect it will be the same.

Depends what you mean by Na diff... An R200 is an R200 all the same strength. The diff centers, one being the weaker N/A the other being the tough but single spinner VLSD and in the GTR's case Mechanical clutch LSD. So either way your going to have to spend another couple hundred having a diff specialist (Boss Automotive here in SA) setup the ratio with your LSD, he also shims up the vlsd crap while your there. I have a 4.363:1 ratio for $100. So it will be a 300-400 exercise to swap ratio's with backlash etc all setup nicely.

Safest bet.. Throw a multimeter on it. Take what you read on the internet with a pinch of salt; always do your further research and testing.

Which is generally why the GT3082's make bugger all if any more power over the GT3076's UNLESS they are pumped full of 100+ron fuel and or water meth injection.

Ahh but it appears its not actually a modded rb26 one but rather a modded rb25 powerfc pro. My Ap engineering pfc had rb25 stamps internally. Crack open an rb25 power fc pro and they look identical, apart from the bodgy looking internal wiring mods. ------- Either way the afm curve will be out because its expecting the flow of 2 x afm's not a single. As we know the afm's airflow vs voltage isn't linear so it will create slight variations. I have no doubts; it will work. Time will tell how far out the airflow curve really is; Paul and I have an RB26 on their way so it should be interesting exactly how it pans out in practice.

Yes I don't know where I'm at with mine. I might bypass the external bosch pump, run the std intanke for a day or two and see how it goes.

I'm just about to play with an rb26 single maf as soon as I receive the pfc from nengun. I had planned to simply parrallel up the airflow meter signal, and either adjust the airflow curve to suit or simply drop in the rb25 single maf airflow curve, ign and fuel maps. Doing the later it should start and drive perfectly fine. Due to the non-linear volt output of mafs; 2 mafs output being (x volts divide by 2) is not going to be the same as a single maf out put being (x voltage). IF one didn't have access to the datalogit I'd assume one could simply tidy up the fuel map and all would be good; my only concern with that method is reduced load point usage when the afm is maxed out. I prefer to play with the airflow curve. Its possible you could also trim the airflow voltage via the handcontrollers afm menu to get it running, then tune BUT that method is quiet coarse. Maybe not... I really won't know what is the easiest method until its on the dyno. Fingers crossed the airflow menu % trim works well. That would make life very easy. Rob82, You lost me a little with the voltage divider. Whats the need for this? Doesn't parralleling up the signal work? :S

Guilt-Toy... So is it the noise your worried about or the afr's going to shit when the fuel pump gets noisy? Exactly what drivability issues do you experience? Light throttle surge? Idle lean missfire? As I mentioned earlier (i think) I have been experiencing a few light throttle surge and idle lean missfires. BUT it occurs randomly; most of the time with the fuel pump noisy but also a lot of the time when its quiet. Putting fuel in does make my fuel pump quiet as yours did BUT it doesn't make a difference if the afr's are playing up on light throttle/idle. Does yours?

Another option to give you something to think about...... If you want the bottom end fresh why not send it off for a light refresh. Just hone, rings + bearings. Shouldn't cost any more than 1.1-1.3k + labour to remove install the motor which is what you would be up for if you were to drop a s/h motor in anyway. $280 or so for a Nissan VRS full top end kit, have new valve stems fitted for $100-150ish (shouldn't cost any more if the people doing the work have worked on the dohc heads before + have all the tools required) and possibly a valve grind. You should get away with a fresh rb20det for 1.8k or so. Shop around, speak to a few cylinder head shops and a few engine reco places that do bulk work as they are the ones who are usually cheap. I know Jap Import Spares <looks at sig> had a GTS4 RB20DET recently; drop them a line see what they want from it and if they can ship it over to you and how much for. Make a mention your from SAU and Tim may look after you.

Yep thats the good Bosch afm. Here's a few pics of my Z32 I bought back in Dec 2004, $280 for what was apparently trade.

Try to squeeze on a crank collar if at all possible. Especially with a nice set of rods and pistons are you'll be able to rev it.

Unsure if they are an AAMI approved repairer but other on this board have had work done by Benjamin Repairs South road just after Mitsi's. I've passed through there before for a quote and was quite impressed with his attitued and sneakly checked out the pait on a few other cars they have done. I drive past there almost daily and see a few imports go through his doors.

I have a GTR mech center in my 32 with apparently nismo 5bolt axles. Its quite streetable and twin wheels everywhere unlike the vlsd. BUT Drop a little burnout or inspect the black marks leaving a corner in second and you can see its spinning wheels at a different speed. Its 11ty billion times better than the crapo vlsd's. While its out sinista, have Boss automotive tighten it up a tad, they are fairly loose from factory. ~$200-$300 to shim + setup back lash.

The inlet runners/plenum has influence over where the power band resides and from what I've seen does indeed widen the power band nicely.Much more so than leaving the stock inlet and only throwing on a good exhaust manifold, thats providing your not near the stock exh manifolds brick wall simply stop making power limit of 300-320rwkw. The short runner style plenums also hold power up longer once peak power is made, this is whats important for your requirements use Al. All though some disagree; seat of the pants a short runner large plenum on the RB30DET even with a stock exh manifold is a very good thing regardless of power being made. The stock rb inlet manifold and plenum is a damn good thing; their only problem is on the 3ltr its '2-2.5ltr factory tuning' places the power band a little lowish in the rpm for a large GT35r+ turbo. I remember R33_racer stating he wound his GT3040 out to 8500rpm? He also stated boost was all in by 3300rpm or there abouts?