Cubes

On the dyno it will nose over but on the road it will feel 'ok' to rev to 6000-6500rpm. With the stock exh. manifold and inlet it won't be making a great deal more power past 5500-6000rpm anyway. Soooo select a turbo that will provide the most area under the curve under 5500-6000rpm. Bolt a GT35r on with the stock exh. and inlet and you end up with a rather peaky motor that has a small power band. From the results I've seen over the years I really do think if your running a stock inlet and exh. manifold you really are best of with a turbo no bigger than a GT30 as you simply don't have the rev's to make the most of the larger turbo.

lol yes...

CEF11E, Your going to be one of the first I know of doing this in a Ceffy so please do report back to how much it lowers the motor by. I would be very interested as the subframes 'may' be interchangable. Possibly an option for the R32 GTR/GTS4 girlies who have problems controlling wheelspin with their right foot. The turbo will be fine with the stock exh and plenum setup as without working on the inlet/exh. the rb30det's tend not to rev past 7000rpm too well anyway. It will pull nicely to 6500rpm ish.

Nankang NS2 245/40/18 dry: 4 wet: 4 over all: 4/10 I've been driving around on these tyres for a few days now and honestly not too impressed. They are wrapped around a set of 18" 8" rims on the front and 18" 9" wide rims on the rear. Possibly the tyre being a little stretched on the rear is severely affecting any sidewall flex to help flatten the tyre on the road for straight line acceleration. They grip almost identically as a set of Federal 535 225/50/16" tyres that cost me $120 each. The Federal 535's are considerably better in the wet and only slightly better in the dry. The 535's manage to hold second gear wot roll on throttle from 40-50km/h second gear ok with only slight chirping through the gear, where as the NS2's let go and cause a little fish tail. Quite dissapointed. Good thing there a mates set of rims/tyres. They do however corner better than the Federals.

lmfao.. Funny u say that as I was watching some 'street drags' on youpube last night. Big v8's and all, all with nos purge from in front of the windscreen. God damn v8 wannabe ricers. lmao.

Awesome work Luke. About time too. lol What other mods? Still on the stock exh housing? Plenum? Any idea on the rpm relevance to the graph?

We all have to draw the line some where.. I'd prefer to sacrifice a bee's dick response and top end peak power for something that can be driven without worry on the street. Pop the hood on mine and it looks 100% stock, right down to the stock air box. + With a GT3076 the added cost of the exh. manifold + gate sends the bang for buck value down the tubes. GT3540, completely different story as they are able to push close to 400rwkw, and yes thats with int gate too. Which was also another reason for myself not going all out with a GT3540. Do it smart is what I say. For those interested... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=3089248 rb30det, HKS GT3037ProS. Exact same core as the Garrett GT3076r but with a slightly different port shroud cover (that can be purches from ebay) and slightly different exhaust housing wastegate setup. Regardless.. Awesome spread of power. From my calcs its making ~164rwkw some where around 3000, look at that torque curve. No doubt it would feel like a big block on the street.

An exh. manifold is required when going ext gate. Throw a good exh manifold on an int gate turbo and its a level playing field. The only issues int gate have is boost control.

Yep definitely not.. Driving around normally, give it a launch and it would get stuck on.. Nothing to do with getting too hot and not cooling it down properly. It never occured when turning the car off, only ever during a drive. Then it would be fine for the rest of the night. Quite random. After seeing Antony's I'm of the opinion that ceramic clutches + 4wd are just not a good combination. Its not like he was even giving it massive gtr style clutch dumps as the 3ltr doesn't need as many rev's. As you know high rev's + clutch dumps is worse for the clutch/driveline than low rev's and clutch dump. The motors spinning at 7000rpm then instantly try's to accelerate the car to that road speed equiv.. Drop it at a lower rpm and the strain is no where near as much.

Andrew you missunderstood my statement. The R34 GTT turbo DOES lag more than the R33 S2 turbo. No if's no buts. The reason Nissan was able to step up the turbine housing on the Neo motor without having increased lag issues was due to the head running better cams that pick up low end torque, improved VCT operation and improved ecu mapping. The R34 GTT turbo is a great turbo don't get me wrong. BUT for the RB20DET the R33 S2 turbo is THE best turbo out of the nissan RB turbo line up. Saying that the R34 GTT turbo may make ever so slightly more peak power than the R33 S2 turbo. BUT as I mentioned earlier, on the RB20DET average power is what accelerates the car quicker to its peak power.

That would be Antony. His origional xtreme clutch didn't hold up like it was supposed to. It was jamming on (welding) its self after mild 4000rpm launches. Quite random also; driven easy for a couple of days, give it a launch and it would jam on and not let go. :S The welding together is an understatement. Yes sure it received the occasional clutch dump at 4000rpm but nothing too extreme. :S

Yes I can't wait.... Paul.. have you seen Troy's vids? Stock rb20det td06-20g pushing 260rwkw. PI is a damn quick track compared to our little Mallala; majority 4th 5th gear 180km/h corners, 240km/h down the straights. The car was a little nervous as you can see. Suspected blow shock. He recent sent it in to a wall of tyres as it spun on him at 200km/h when jumping on the brakes. I'm guessing he'll get its problems sorted. :S

Landcruiser or Territory Turbo here... Keep the little 32 as a fun track car.

I have the same setup, intake lift with the external. Regardless if its an empty tank or full take I still get the noisy pump when the amb temp is warm, empty tank noisy fuel pump then fill up, its quiet for 5mins or so then gets noisy again. We have a little stretch heading home where you sit jammed in traffic for a good 30mins and you literally move a couple of car positions then sit for another 5mins, this repeats for a good 30mins; the only difference being your lucky to even register a speed on your speedo. I would say its comparable. Pointing the return away from the pick up is a suggestion that others have said they have had good results with in reducing the noise of the pump on those warm days. Its only a suggestion that may save you a couple hundred. :S

Guilt Toy.. There's definitely something up as on a day like this myself and mates definitely don't have fuel temp/noise issues even when running on empty *red light on*. Our pumps only start making noise on warmish 30degree+ days. Have you tried pointing the return away from the pumps pickup? Maybe your aerating the fuel some what which shows up when low on fuel?

Bump. Your SOFT Antony... Throw the motor back in. Good luck with your inspection today. :S

Items: Genuine Nissan RB26DETT Headgasket. Extra Info: none Contact Details: PM Price and price conditions: Cheaper than from nissan

I've never seen a gt35r .63 on an rb25 so i'm really only guestimating. I'd expect it to be all in by around 4000rpm+ ish.. and start pulling hard by 4500rpm ish. Much like a GT3040 .82. Off topic a touch... It would be very interesting to compare the GT3040 .82 to a GT35r .63. The gt30r .82 and gt35r .63 turbine/housing combination flows very similiar with the gt35r edging out the gt30r in the higher PR's. Considering they both have the 82mm 56t comp wheel and both the turbine wheel and housing size combination flows similiar it would be interesting to see how the theory of turbine size to compressor wheel matching affects spool and response. The GT35r does have a heavier larger turbine wheel BUT as you know a larger wheel is able to provide more torque to drive the compressor wheel due to its greater tip height, so its a little more efficient at using the exhausts energy. NIB used a GT35r .63 on an RB30DET. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=80730 Doesn't appear to spool as expected (looks almost like a .82) but maybe he got on it a little late in the rpm.

The GTS4 box is a GTR box apart from its ratio's are slightly shorter.

Awesome turbo those td06-20g's. On the std exhaust manifold or a nice highmount (Troy style)?

ahh good stuff Ronin.. How did the power go with the richer afr's? Didn't drop too much?

pixel8r, If your running the R34 OP6 largish turbine housing you may want to consider getting your hands on an R33 turbine housing and having that machined up. I remember some time ago Mafia (I think it was) had an OP6 R34/VG30 turbine housing machined up in an attempt to chase more power. To cut a long story short it didn't last long, he ripped it off and dropped the std r33 housing back on quickly, average power is where acceleration is. Not peak. The turbo your running is always going to be making all its boost around the 3500-4000rpm mark, it has the potential for close to 260-300rwkw so its a bit of a bugger when your only shoving near stock like boost levels down its throat. Maybe a GT2871 would have been better suited for your goals/setup? I would still definitely not write off the greedy emanage ultimate. I can't say I've heard about bad experiences of the ultimate but the blue I definitely heard of bad experiences. I'm sure Shaun will tell you of his with the emanage blue. :S

The step down to .63 will reduce spool by approx 500rpm but most importantly improve part throttle and low load (first and second gear) spool and acceleration.

Guilt-Toy. I have a couple of good mates that both run the 044 in tank and have absolutely no issues. The pump is quiet apart from those warmish days sitting in traffic where the pump begins making a surging/gurgling type sound. My pump is mounted externally and gets the same surging/gurgling sound in warm weather when sitting in traffic. However.. For some time now I've suffered an intermittent problem that is similar to yours, on cruise and idle the afr leans out yet its fine under full throttle, the difference being my pump doesn't change its sound. At one point it got really bad where the car would lean out on off boost accel. causing it to feel dougy and surge, get some boost on board and it would clear its throat and take off. I ripped everything off, replaced hose clamps (but not IC hoses) and it appeared to clear it up to the point where it now only occasionally does it on idle or light cruise. I have suspected my pump as it was fitted back in 2002 and has travelled almost ~160,000km's. I plan on getting to the bottom of it very soon. :S

I've attached his dyno sheet. I hope he doesn't mind.. Shouldn't as he's posted it here before. As you can see the std injectors are hitting 100% duty with close to 14:1 by peak power. :S To hold a flat 12 on std rail pressure the std injectors hit 100% duty at around 180rwkw from what I've seen with mine and 2 others. All on the same dyno obviously... Different dyno's you may get either a higher or lower reading. But its all very close, generally only 5-10rwkw max providing its a DD dyno and run in the correct shoot out mode.