Cubes

ricsvtr, All though an R32 I also did my heater core in the same manner. A/C degassed Then remove: glove box a/c engine bay evap connections a/c evap box from under the dash (easy) heater core center plastic clip 4 screws on each heater core water connector and remove connectors then slide out the heater core. As it turned out my lower plastic heater core connector was cracked. A new heater box set me back $50 from the wreckers, I only used the core and connectors from it. My evaporator core was filled with dust and crap (no doubt a jap smoker) + the a/c evap core box also had a dodgy air temp sensor so I replaced the whole lot. I bought a new box from a wrecker for $50, evap core sensors the works. The new clean unblocked evap core is awesome. So much more air blows out the vents; and with the a/c on its absolutely freezing. Running R12A gas I saw air temps (via diag air temp sensor) at 2degree's on the last warm day that was mid 30's. Refrigerant temps sit ~1-2degrees lower than air. Prior with the blocked evap core it would hang around 5degree's and push 8degree's on warm days, so a massive difference as to how crispy cold the air feels leaving the vents. Only once I've seen minus 1degree on a cool night.

The RB20det with an rb25 turbo hanging off the side and mapped ecu/pfc makes around 190rwkwish but requires a little more boost than the rb25. ~14psi for 190-195rwkw with the rb20det. Obviously doesn't have as much mid range.. Better off with a gt2510 or gt2530 that you can push 18psi or so in to it to push that mid range up.

I had a look at datalogit log I took some time ago. My Z32 afm on idle see's 1165mv on average. It never sways more than 10mv either way providing I don't touch the steering or pump the brakes. But it is a 3ltr so it 'may' suck a little more on idle.

Nismo/Tomei is definitely the way to go. The 044's can 'very easily' be mounted internally with very little playing around. A few bits of suitable rubber for mounting, couple of suitable hose clamps, a hack saw, fuel hose and fittings from pirtek & either reuse the std sock or grab an aftermarket as dangerman4 did = internal 044. ------ Chris Davey, Absolutely no point trying to compare an auto's spool to the manuals as the auto makes a massive difference. Dangerman4... rb25det auto + gt35r .82 = all its boost by 4100-4200rpmish and 5-6psi at 3000rpm if I remember correctly.

lol those are.. lmao I'm talking the cheapo budget cases.. TA-861/862 They only run a little psu but 350w is fine for a general usage pc; obviously not a sli/multihard drive/big vid card type psu but fine for family use.

Any one played with the new Asus cases yet? PSU's are not power houses but perfectly fine for small family pc. Paul?

How are the MSI boards these days Paully? I was scared off them quite some time ago and have never bothered looking back.

I think I follow what you are saying... I did my testing across the pump terminals. By earthing the multimeter to chassis it picked up 0.5v. Also.. the GTR and GTST's use a different modulation setup, not sure on the specifics but the GTR ecu has 2 outputs high/low where as the GTST has one.

Sure does... The R33's tend not to suffer the low volt syndrome like the r32's do. So what will it be. Tomei/Nismo or will you put up with the groaning Bosch pumps.

I believe it was the Asus A7V133-C with the famous 686b south bridge.

Research in to it a little more you will find 5% is perfectly fine.

lol mine wasn't quite that bad but it made the car feel very very dull.

lol. Funny thread.

With a hoist and the tools they have coil overs should take under 1hr.

Damn impressive 12degree's and past mbt. I think I'll be looking in to water meth after I find where mine maxes out on pump.

LMAO. I wasn't impressed when I walked in their door.

Quite common. Antec's are a GREAT PSU apart from their poor quality caps. I'd be very interested to see what caps you have in the Neo480w as 3-4years at 24x7 is a damn good run. Recap it and it will live to see another day.

Nope Hindley street computers is hindley street computers.

lol Well you don't. I've had 2 fuel pumps in the past go in a similiar fashion. One in a VN commodore and another in a VL. Both began working again once given a little time to cool. I should mention the second VN pump (aftermarket cheapo) simply just died; unlike the first oem pump that worked then showed signs of leanout then worked again once it cooled, it wasn't long until it just stopped working. Also had a fuel pump die in a 318is BMW. That simply went from good to nothing. Dead.

Well my pump played up tonight... I've suspected the pump for the last 6 months as its only been the last 6months I've been having the occasional surge feel off boost & light throttle. I've swapped out afms, ecu's, tps, ignitors everything. It recently came good after giving the ic pipe clamps a re-torque (coincidence). Primed the car, fuel pump made its usual noise but its speed was fast slow fast slow. Cranked the car and it wouldn't kick. Gave it another crank and it spluttered in to life, drove down the road and it just died, no fuel pump noise. Sat for a second, cranked and drove and it appeared fine again. I'm up for a new pump. To4gtr, do the stock gtr pumps flow enough for 300rwkw maybe a touch more with 40psi base fuel pressure?

I've used Eucalyptus oil for tree sap and badge goo, works extremely well; you must let it soak in and rub, then reapply and do it all over again. Pulls it off well.

You won't as the r32 actuator is rated to open at a higher pressure. Grab an r33 actuator and r32 actuator; the r32 actuator is considerably stiffer.

I called them and the knobby told me they had been open for ~3months as it wasn't until last week I realised they are now in SA I always know what I want. It actually pisses me off when they try and recommend something else. I had hindley street computers try that on me.

Are the stock rods really that weak though? I can't say i've heard of an rb25 rod going banana.

Shaun measures the length and sets them up correctly. So yes.. Exactly the same height as stock. Bosch pumps do get groany when the fuel heats up. When mine wasn't receiving full volts it was so bad the floor pan would vibrate and could be heard/felt over the radio.