
Cubes
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Everything posted by Cubes
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R34 Gtt Rims Wont Fit R32
Cubes replied to DjeMz's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Are you using the correct wheel nuts for the wheel? An 8mm spacer is whats required. Fairly cheap from Autobarn. -
Top RB20 Club... do you have over 260rwkw?
Cubes replied to RBsileighty's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
It appears people see gains of 40rwkw with WI. r33_racer on his race car (rb30det, cams, plenum, exhaust manifold) saw ~328rwkw with the GT3040 .82 with vpower racing and no WI. With WI turned on they were able to push 370rwkw. Mafia... GT3076 on stock exhaust manifold, stock plenum with 98ron saw a gain of ~40rwkw with WI turned on. For the outlay of ~$800+ for a 'good' WI setup you get to retain your current response/spool yet with increased power every where. Next time I see darren (470rwkw stock bottom end) I'll see what sort of power gain he saw with WI. -
Squeel doesn't mean you need new pads.. Grinding does. lol Your probably missing the anti-squeel shims on the back of the pad. My Ferodo's squeel like all buggery just before coming to a stop as I don't run the anti-squeel's. I couldn't fit them on as the pad had a heap of rubber type crap on the back of it. Probably could have got them in there but didn't have much time to play around with it. In the past I've used PBR antisqueel grease with the antisqueel shims and the brakes have been silent. Even when I ran around with Ultimates that are renowned for squeel. Ultimates = crap. Didn't last long, lots of dust and ate my disks.
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How Much Is 250rwkw In Engine Kw?
Cubes replied to BaysideBlue's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
The thread op has asked How much is 250rwkw in Engine Kw.. That places myself under the impression he's after a comparison of flywheel kw to a rolling road dyno where tyre slip etc does exist. So tyre slip in my eyes is relevant. As I mentioned earlier.. Clint32. 580hp (432kw) on the engine dyno. On the rollers 338rwkw. 338 * 1.3 = 439kw. Its pretty damn close to what was seen in practice you have to admit. -
lol... The above qualifies... I can bump it up a little if your tired of sitting on 40%? -- Car jack is fine. You will need a reasonable breaker bar. On the note of a big turbo.... Don't go too big as you loose the fun in first and second gear. Mafia over in QLD has the right idea.. GT30r .63 18psi Water/Meth injection and an easy 295rwkw, all its boost in by 3600rpm. Still has more in it; he's just a little worried about the stock bottom end. Which I wouldn't be. Det is what kills the bottom ends. S3girl here in Adelaide ran his stocker bottom end Rb30 up to 470rwkw with WI and a big turbo. Quite impressive what a little bit of water and methanol is able to do.
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Top RB20 Club... do you have over 260rwkw?
Cubes replied to RBsileighty's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Any of you blokes considered Water/meth injection? Mafia's had some pretty decent results from his rb25 GT3076r .63. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t=0&start=0 295rwkw on 18psi. There's more in it as it can take more boost and is well below the detonation threshold as it makes max torque on min timing well before detonation is seen. I think he mentioned another 4 degree's past max torque before he sees det. Troy? Cheaper than a rebuild. A bloke here in SA I only found out uses WI to keep his stock rb30 alive on 470rwkw. -
Red. Suspension on these is piss easy. 1-2hr tops with a hydraulic jack; 2+hrs if you procrastinate.
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R34 Gtt Rims Wont Fit R32
Cubes replied to DjeMz's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
I bolted up a set to my R32 and found the calliper touched the inside of the rim slightly. They require a thin spacer. OR. Throw on a set of R33 GTST or R32 GTR front callipers. -
lol I think I passed you guys as I was coming back out of the hills. I drove back down through town and down anzacs to run in to a massive group of 20+ cars sitting on 40km/h and dragging off at every set of lights. lmao crazy buggers. Mini tubbed Sigma, turbo'd old yellow/faded rx3 or something rotor that went very very hard.
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Dave drop it back to fourth and see if its still there. I had a box that would vibrate in fifth gear over 110km/h. Slight high frequency vibe that would wobble the center interior mirror so that everything looked slightly blurred. Couldn't really feel it. Box eventually blew third gear dropped in another and no vibe.
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ok Definitely nothing has been deleted (actually moved to a special area lol) that you have participated in and has the name/title of "a night" I remember when you were writing novels some time ago but they were plastered randomly in different threads, essentially off topic.
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How long back are we talking Red? Your old days or your current turned over a new leaf days? hehe Everything still exists.. I'll see what I can dig up. You haven't created a thread with anything of the likes "a night" in the title. I'll check individual posts.
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Was crazy last night.. ~20 odd cars. Most didn't know each other. lol
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Offtopic.. Report it if you care. Any one heading out tonight?
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DS2500 Ferodo's or RB74 (Race Brakes) For a good street/track pad. DS2500's are a little harder on the rotor and a little more expensive but do have a better bite.
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On the stock guage oil pressure at idle is supposed to be 1.5-2.
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Spotted Serity1 last night South tce/Goodwood road.
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And Red's only starting....
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The problem is else where because the stock ecu is fine for running more than std boost. Knock Detection... The ecu retards timing up until 4500rpmish. Over that it ignores the knock sensors. R&R... Protects the motor through the critical peak torque rpm. Not high rpm. Then there's a complete fuel cut...
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The boost levels you are talking about >7psi indicates there's a problem elsewhere. Not the ecu limiting what ever. Even if the ecu were to do its R&R or picking up detonation power would pick up after 4500-5000rpm or so. You need to think is saving $50 for a power run worth the cost for possibly a new motor? So..... Get it on the dyno for a quick power run. Simple.
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If it is pinging due to the increased boost it 'should' clear up after 4500-5000rpm and rev nicely to peak power. Last service... Did you have it on the dyno for a power run/check up? It may be the std fuel pump is getting a little tired and as a result its leaning out giving that lethargic feeling.
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Good thing its not EvilR34... The last car with those plates was in a horrid accident.
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1.300" (33.02mm) does ring a bell. Wiseco state their rb30det piston has a comp height of 1.260" (32mm) and results in a deck height is 0.039" (0.99mm). Going by that the deck height is 1.299" (32.9946mm). Would have to measure it up to be sure, but its safe to say its with in 1.299" to 1.3" Pull off ~0.030" or so off the block depending on how the head cc's up and headgasket.
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When I do this I will be disconnecting fuel pump, ignitor, afm, o2 and anything else I can think of at the time.
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Hey paul, I've been double checking a few things and the fuel pump flow control has stood out as being a problem. First up how the fuel pump is controlled by the GTST's. The GTST's essentially run a basic dropping resistor and relay (they call fpcm) that is activated by the ecu to earth the pump out and bypass the dropping resistor resulting in high voltage to the pump. The R33 and R32 GTST ecu's have pinout 104 activated constantly which is why we loose the high/low function with a pfc in the gtst's. The GTR's do away with the dropping resistor in favour of 2 ecu pinouts for the high/low control and a 'real' fpcm (fuel pump control module). Essentially the fpcm is a relay thats earthed and resistor thats earthed all in one. It receives a signal from the ecu via pinouts 104 or 106 and activates the associated circuit. One being the straight relay earth the other being the resistored earth. So whats what?!?! We really need to remove pinouts 104 and 106 and see what they are doing. I would assume as the fuel pump goes high one is off the other is on and as the fuel pump goes low its vice versa. Which will cause problems with fuel pump control on both prime and running. ---- I think the answer is maybe one or both of the below. 1. Simply bridge ecu pin outs 104 and 106 so the gtst's relay (fpcm) is always active. 2. The fuel pump receives its voltage via a relay that is activated by the ignition switch and the ecu earthing out. So simply splice in to the fuel pumps voltage feed and using it as a trigger for a negatively earthed relay. When the ignition key is turned the ecu earths its self out activating the new negatively earthed relay; as the fuel pump is now earthed it will run. I would hope it doesn't cause problems with prime. I would assume not going by the wiring diagrams. I've pulled the wiring diagrams out of the engine manuals; next time your on msn i'll send them on over to you to have a look.