Cubes

Mate of mine ran the sard twinspray 800cc top feeds. No difference in fuel economy when driving normally to that of the stock rb20det injectors. I also noted the afr's were nice on idle/light throttle; the o2 sensor had no issues trimming afr at low rpm. Even with rather brisk runs through the hills it still returned ~13l/100km's which was fairly good considering the power it was making.

I used penrite-running in oil as I wasn't keen on cheapo bilo oil and since have run motul 8100 5w40. Its a 'true' grp 4 base stock synthetic. Sure the castrol oils may work ok but if I pay good $$ for a full synthetic oil I expect a full synthetic oil. Not to be ripped off with some grp 3 base stock that is claimed to be 'almost' as good as a grp 4 base stock synthetic. Motul; you really cannot go wrong. ---- Spoolup; what run-in oil would you suggest? I did consider using the plain old castrol gtx that doesn't have non-friction modifiers.. The penrite running in oil I used is most likely recycled oil also but it was $28 for 5ltrs so not super cheap. Mines still running well; travelled 60,000km's with forged pistons, king bimetal's and still compression tests the same as it did after run in. Still doesn't use a drop of oil and oil pressure it good.

I noticed the same when fitting my z32 up. Everything went a little richer but still ran perfectly fine. Nothing a little tune didn't sort.

I wasn't really expecting a response. lol I wasn't actually thinking about peak torque rpm but rather the torque made at the rb20's peak power. In order for the rb20 to hold its power at a higher rpm it will be making more torque at high rpm than the sr. So 'generally' better suited to constant high rpm use. As we know low/mid range torque makes the car really nice to drive on the street and is great for drift. 'Generally' the rb20 with its short stroke holds its power for longer after peak power is made. This is especially usefull for those corners where third is too long and second is just that little too short. But yes.. as I said I didn't intend on it to become a disussion....................................................................... ..... <bhdave how many dots?>

lol.

Well BHdave............ If you don't like it you can bang it up your arse.

Just torque them up correctly, use the correct nuts and washers. They won't rattle loose.

What you have said doesn't really make sense.. A new nut to cover the hole? Sounds as if the stud has broke and fell out? They won't come loose if you are using the correct nuts, conical washers and have torqued them correctly.

My 34 GTR injectors were identical in height and looks *apart from colour* to my Rb20DET injectors.

At what rpm... I am willing to bet the rb20 has more torque at high rpm and the sr.

Why leave it running. Its simply not needed. Unless you drive flat stick for the last 1km to your house simply turn the car off just before you get out of the car, if you are in the habit of tearing down your street let it idle for 30secs and turn it off. 30secs is usually the time it takes for you to grab your wallet and take your setbelt off anyway. The turbo's are now watercooled so thermosyphoning continues to cool the turbo when you shut the car down. I've done this for the last 5.5years and travelled over 175,000km's and never had a turbo failure. Upon inspection of the turbo oil lines and turbo its self there is no oil coking. Use a good grp iv synthetic oil and you are less likely to have issues with oil coking. ---- I'd simply give it an oil and filter change. Prolonged idling isn't good for the oil or bores due to fuel dilution. Inspect the plugs they may be fouled from prolonged idling.

I remember one person had an issue of some sort and the tuner was trying to flog it off as an injector problem. From memory the tuner was trying to state they had poor atomisation resulting in a low peak power. The big problem with this tuners theory is good atomisation isn't required at high rpm full throttle due to high port velocity. Part throttle/idle and low rpm is where poor atomisation will show. MisfitCeffy666 found a forum where a couple of people had issues but reading other posts of those individuals it sounds like the injectors weren't at fault, rather they were trying to find something to blame for their stupidity. There's quite a few here on SAU that are running them without issues. But on that note Injectors are cheap enough from nengun these days. Grab a decent set.

What makes the R34 GTR standard injectors different to the R32 GTR injectors apart from their body being silver rather than the 32's black? I had mine flow tested. 40psi 480cc; which is what they should be according to tomei. Off the top of my head tomei had the gtr injectors down as... 36.5psi - 444cc 40psi - 480cc 46psi - 520cc

You two appear to be hitting it off... haha But Pokie.. Sambo doesn't want kids so that may be a problem. Im off to bed.. I'll leave u two to it.

You learn to turn off to the tantrum crying etc.. Apart from tantrums kids don't cry for no reason; well ours doesn't. I think we've been lucky though; no collic, no allergies, no issues burping or with wind. So pretty much a perfect baby thats now very quickly became a little independent "no I don't want to daddy" cheeky chops.

lol I got up because i couldn't sleep. Tossing and turning thinking about exh manifold and dump pipe design that i'm about to start welding. Then started to think about what o2 sensors the gtr's run as I'll be dropping a rb26 pfc in to my r32 (I sold the old ap engineering one off). So off I go googling. ----- Just wait until you have kids.. Once they get old enough to start giving a little back its awesome. Best thing I've ever done. lol My little boy is almost 2.5years and is already a little rev head lol. Rides his bike with trainer wheels making broom noises while he leans back and pedals as fast as he can. If I have to accelerate a little hard to merge in to traffic or what not I hear from the back... "burn daddy burn" lmao I have no idea where he picked up the burn from. When I'm working on the car he's already a great tool hand. Knows what a hammer, screw driver and a heap of other tools are. Its amazing what they learn.

Its the same with the rb30's.. Keep revs in check (7000rpm) and they take what ever you throw at them Darren (S3girl) pushed his rb30 to 470rwkw.

Good price here ppls... Sump/Diff an easy $500 Sump adaptor + mods an easy $500-$900 Motor + head.. 3k is on the mark ppls. Cost a lot more to have this done else where.

Now why would it be crap. Go do some reasearch for your self.

GRP III

Which makes the 8100 X-CESS well priced being a grp IV when it goes for $59. Autobarn have jacked their price lately but there's plenty of other places where its available at the usual $59.

What is also very important is dump design. Besure to run a split style dump and 2" pipe from the wastegate which doesn't merge on a bend.

As I think I said previously.. when i get this little jerk my load points increase, tracked down to the afm being disturbed by the plumb back bov or no bov (when I blocked it off the problem became worse). So watch the map trace when it does it and see if your issue is the same as mine. A larger and or slightly longer afm to turbo pipe 100% sorts this problem. BUT SK may be on the ball with his suggestion to check the tuning.

Troy (Roy)'s RB20DET + TD06-20g 8cm Turbine kit works extremely well. 260rwkw on a stock rb20det. Definitely not a time bomb. Its all in the tuning. Philip Island.. Highspeed track, 4th gear high speed corners. :S My opinion.. A well setup RB20DET makes a better track motor. As for street.. Not exactly sure as I've never been in an S13 RB20DET or R32 SR20DET but from driving a mates S15 the sr20 did appear to spool its turbo nicely and provide awesome mid range but it was begging for you to change gear at 6000rpm. + they sound like shiet.. But thats subjective.

Nice pickup. I was watching that to see how much it went for.