Cubes

lol... Yellow Galliano is much more appreciated. No need for a motivation incentives.. Comes down to limited time at this very moment as I have to get mine back on the road; I'm fabricating the dump pipe, inlet piping etc myself in spare time. Won't be too long. I've updated the thread starting post.

No problem. Do consider that a VCT controller still has to be sorted out. This is a little project in my spare time so it won't be completed over night. The Rb26PFC without VCT works perfectly fine in the R33; its only the VCT controller that has to be sorted. So... Its up to you if you can hang off for a little until the VCT controller gets sorted. With VCT off the RB25's mid range is a little lack luster.

Hotwire, The times I have been pulled over and defected in previous cars (when I was in my late teens) its was always on a fri/sat night cruising with the 'boys' lol or driving home late at night from work. Cruising around normally a-b you have pretty bad luck to be defected; unless you have a little bit of a history and your name flashes up when they do a plate check.

radr33, On the RB20 the larger op6 turbine housing isn't an upgrade. Yes you net a little more peak but you loose with increased lag + slightly less mid range and a turbo that doesn't come on hard. So its boaring. When I ran the larger OP6 on the rb20 I was extremely dissapointed with the result. I dropped the stock turbo back on asap. The result is an rb20 that is slower and boaring on the street. You'll have stock turbo'd rb20det's @ 1bar whooping your ass until mid way through fourth gear, not really suitable for the street. On the Rb30DET; the larger OP6 is an excellent mod for one who wishes to stick with the stock turbo. I picked up a considerable amount of mid and top end; power extended 500rpm and held power once peak was made much better. On the 3ltr it made its full boost ~200rpm later than the stock turbo; on the rb20 I was seeing full boost a full 600rpm later. Rb25 or RB30; great upgrade as the motors can do with a little more turbine flow. For the RB20... A stock turbo tuned up nicely will net 170-175rwkw with a meaty mid range or bolt on an rb25det turbo for 190-195rwkw. Both running 14-15psi. Following that bang for buck the Slide highflow is well proven and reliable or a good s/h HKS2530. Then start looking at the trust td06-20g for 250kw+.

jurule, Have a read above as the R33's are not a simple drop in like the R32's. Its up to your self if you think its worth while or not. The PFC has its benefits with the downside of an external vct controller. A vct controller still has to be sorted. The problem with the emanage is tuners willing to play with them. They are not a simple plug with what I've been led to believe have poor documentation.

Not sure.. I do know Grepins GT2835ProS had boost drop issues over 270-280rwkw but he did manage to push over 300rwkw with working on improving the motors airflow via plenum, cams, exh. manifold etc etc. ~313rwkw from memory. If he were to hold the wastegate shoot power would shoot up over 300rwkw, possibly hks's wastegate flow is just a little too good once then pressure builds up behind the flap blowing it open. So if thats the case and they are the same comp wheel which I wasn't aware of then yes it should do it with no real problems. But from what I've seen its definitely not possible on a stock cam'd motor. Steve with the .87? As I said above it made 320 something rwkw on a shade over 20psi. Its been some years so the details are beginning to fade. But it did go well and appears to hit the ceiling of what a few other GT3076 and hks3037ProS tend to make and initially he complained of lag from the .87 which I believe was sorted with cams and a better tuner. He still floats around on these forums from time to time.

Disco. If one were aiming for close to 300rwkw would the GT3071r get there? I've never seen one run near those numbers on the dyno that I run on. They always top out around the 250-260rwkw mark. As for the 52t, availability is the problem. As I've said a few times before; an old mate of mine Steve initially received his HKS3037S with the .6 ext gate housing. That made around 250rwkw on 1bar, spooled early but came on light a light switch. He bought the .87 from the US. He was running a decent plenum, exhaust manifold, cams and a loud open exhaust. That went on to make 320 something rwkw on a shade over 20psi.

You have to run an external pick up. I've attached a couple of pics from another setup I've seen. I'm not sure if using a banjo is a wise idea but it did appear to work with no issues; I would prefer a speedflow type connection.

lol yes luck is the word indeed. I had a quick look at it while I was down there today dropping some lifters off. From previous experience I most likely won't be getting the head back before the weekend. lol

I believe I have a 2200+ and 2100+ sitting around some where.

I remeber the really early 500hp rated GCG's had issues with surge but that was when your getting stuck in to it. I don't remember any issues related to when u jump off the throttle. So your bov hasn't been modded so to speak? that little bleed hole in it blocked off? Any chance of a vid of you driving it and it doing the jerk when you get off the throttle so we can see just how bad it is?

Ben, Its possible. All though I run a stock airbox with a 100mm cai I don't see why you couldn't run a larger afm->turbo pipe on the rb25. With the larger afm->turbo pipe + retaining the mesh on your afm + retaining the stock bov + ensuring you haven't blocked up the bov's bleed hole the reversion is basically non existant apart from a few select driving conditions. That was a mouth full. Yours may be a little more touchy I'm not sure but...... (<<< Lots of dots for those who care lol) You obviously know how to get it to do it... Have you tried to adjust your driving style to prevent it and just accept the fact that its part of owning a modified car?

Its all very easy.. Either hotmail or use one of the multiple free email addresses that come with your internet access. Most ISP's offer a maximum of 4 or so email addresses for free. You can create and then later delete. So.. Register a temp email address Post the email address here on the forums Those who are interested shoot off an email stating their username in the subject A day or so before the thread op simply selects to 'reply to all' and shoots off a single email to every one who sent him/her an email Eazy Peazy Japanezy --- I definitely won't be making it.. Still waiting on receiving the head back Chris Milton Engine Developments. I was hoping I would have it back by now but suspected I wouldn't.

lol kralster.. The beauty of instant email notification that quotes the posts text. ---- With regards to dvd ide slow down; I've never seen anything of the like unless the dvd drive is being accessed and it has dropped back to PIO transfer. If the drive is idling you 'shouldn't' see any performance decrease regardless. But nothing is ever really certain. There's many hardware combinations etc. Maybe the reset fixed a few loose ends so to speak.

A little pic of the above..

Have every one send an email to a temp email address who's interested and then you simply reply to all.

As I mentioned in your previous thread I've seen and experienced it on stock turbo'd cars, highflows and GT35r's with and without a bov. Without a bov it is much more severe; with the factory recirc it only occurs under specific circumstances; you can drive around it easily. From my understanding of your problem it isn't so much compressor surge but rather the air travelling backwards through the afm, so reversion as you say. But yes.. There is compressor surge in there but its not the compressor surge causing the drivability problems but rather the air hitting the afm be it via the dump of the recirc bov or the air travelling backwards through the turbo and out past the afm. I've found running no mesh on the turbo's side of the afm does slightly increase this reversion so to speak. The fix from what I've found..... 1. Drive around it/change your driving style - This is the big one. 2. Atmo Bov (but you then have overfueling stalling as a result) 3. If your running no bov reconnect the stock bov to reduce the intensity and frequency of the afm reversion. 4. Larger dia. afm to turbo pipe or if possible longer. A 4" afm to turbo pipe appears to work well in reducing this afm reversion.

When my stock pump started to die it went from nice solid afr's to running dangerously lean within 6months. If its old, high km's and showing that its a little lazy.. Replace it; not worth the ringlands. Your tuner will know what you pump is good for and if its lazy or not.

I haven't done any work on the VCT controller yet as I'm currently working on my own car. The heads off down at Chris Milton Engineering having a bit of work done + I'm bolting on the new turbo thats been sitting here not being used for toooooo long. So until mines back on the road I won't be working on the VCT controller as my spare time is occupied by my own car. However.. A guestimate, don't hold me to it as its essentially up to Shaun RB26PFC $800-$910 Inlet Air temp sensor + Fitting - $100 Loom mods - $120 VCT Controller - $ Unsure It is likely to be a jaycar kit so not too expensive. Tuning - $500 (not sure exactly what shaun charges) Once mine is back on the road (end of next week fingers crossed) I will head down to Shaun and see what I can work out cost wise for tuning + loom and vct controller.

If you find the stock guage is reading correctly then you won't be up for just an oil pump. Rebuild time.

Well what a nice police officer to make such an assumption.

So where did the metal bits come from? :S lol.

I've had my pedal box pop its welds. In my case the spot welds broke and then continued to tear at the metal. I grabbed a couple of pics from the nismo pedal box and noticed they have replaced the spot welds with propper welds. I had mine rewelded for $30 and its now tough as... I hope.

Ever driven an old carb motor without a choke? You need the cold start enrichment; they drive like absolute cops without it. I've leaned mine out as much as possible before I experience drivability hessitation & bogging problems.

$108 for the Genuine master cylinder isn't so bad. I've been pushing aftermarket ones through mine that are $75 a pop. I seem to go through 1 every year. I run a heavy heavy clutch; silly single plates. Back to genuine Nissan for me. As a comparison the aftermarket slave cylinders are $40. I think that too is starting to blow out; last time I flicked the boot a little clutch fluid had built up in there.