Cubes

So its a little bit of everything then. Comparing the aftermarket thermostats to the genuines the genuine looks and feels a hell of a lot more solid. Down this way aftermarkets are ~$25 each compared to the genuine nissan @ $49.

So yer... thats my experience/observations. What yours people..

mad082, Can you grab the part number off the genuine thermostat? Maybe the RB20 and Rb25 thermostats are slightly different. The new genuine rb20 thermostat I tested really didn't open much at all. I'd say in total it opened 15mm off its seat. The 2 aftermarkets opened all the way which appeared to be approx 20-25mm off its seat. The aftermarket opened sooner, opened at a greater speed and also closed quicker; essentially it was more responsive than the genuine. The genuine was sluggish in its movements and didn't open as much. As I mentioned above on the road the aftermarket had the car running cooler on cruise and showed temperature fluctuations when u gave it beans. The genuine holds a solid 83-85ish degree's, essentially temperature warms up quicker and holds consistent. Much nicer than a swaying temp guage + it held the motor within the apparent fuel efficent 85degree temp range. The r32 did get too warm like the VL with the aftermarket thermostat when hitting the big arsed willunga hill. In the VL Willunga hill requires approx 1/2-3/4 throttle to hold 110km/h; the hill takes a couple of minutes to reach the top of. So its a fairly big hill. With regards to running a car without a thermostat which makes it run cold... This is 'generally' true under light load BUT give it full throttle for any length of time and they overheat. I've experienced this back in the old carby days with 308's and mild 250 2v precross flows. yes I did try no thermostat in the VL.. It ran stupidly cold on cruise and overheated up willunga hill to the point where i Had to back off and turn around; slap a genuine thermostat in it and it was as good as gold. No thermostat was a bad thing. Which brings me back to maybe there isn't enough suction or vac on the water pumps side to provide reasonable flow; maybe the theory regarding water flow speed through the radiator is barking up the wrong tree and all along it has more so to do with providing a vac on the water pump so that it pumps water instead of spinning it around and around. Some one with a little more fluid dynamics knowledge would be able to look at the water pump design and know for sure. Not that it is really applicable but remember.... The greater the temperature differential the greater the effiency of heat transfer/removal.

Hey Jazza... Long time no see. I've tried the aftermarket tridon and another german brand thermostat in mine some time ago. Both resulted in very slow warm ups; both also never went over 75degree's on cruise; if I were to give it some stick it would quickly rise up to 80-85degree's. The slow warmups and lack of the almost instant heater was enough for myself to put the genuine back in. The genuine warms up extremely quickly, within 1-2km's, holds a consistent temp of 83-85degree's regardless if Im giving it heaps or just cruising. I've experienced the same in the old VL's BUT the vl's would overheat with aftermarket thermostats on long pulls (willunga hill for example), the genuine item held coolant temp cooler up willunga hill and more consistent. Beats me why... Possibly the water pump has issues sucking through the aftermarket thermostat that opens much much wider than the genuine.

hahah good stuff. Can't beat defence healths 90% cover when paying that dental bill. Sure beats the other health funds 60%. EDIT: So that was defence health or no defence health?

Yep I'll be in..

Defence? Or mummy and daddy still pay for it? I'm on a reduced rate. Defence Health cover for me.

I tried the castrol 5w30 a year or so ago; motor had probably done around 20,000kays. I found it used oil with the castrol 5w30, dropped the motul 5w40 back in and not a drop. Hows your oil pressure? :S

I think you were lucky MrLag.

Last time I checked my apengineering datalogit logs it defaults to 175degree's when nothings connected. :S To be 100% sure we need Mafia to comment on what his logs stated to be 100% sure it also defaults to 175degree's for the rb26 pfc.

You need to modify the airflow curve/map reference for it to use utilize the load points correctly. + the inlet airtemp sensor Must be zero'd out otherwise ign correction will occur. All of which require the datalogit. Dwell I don't believe is an issue; I haven't noticed any difference flicking between rb25, 26 or 20 dwell settings.

How about the gtr assembly? Then just get the speedo recalibrated.

Its not all that simple though as the pfc requires a datalogit to be thrown on it, airflow curves + map references played with + other little settings. One of the reasons I'm only going to do it for a couple of locals. Its simply not worth the hassle or the wait from nengun for the pfc. If I were to buy the pfc's locally its not worth the cost as one may as well go out and get a decent wolf3d v500 or the likes, especially when you consider you don't have to buy an ebc etc as its all in one. I'm not willing to leave myself open, some one connects it up does something wrong and blows something up blaming me. So its either all *including tuning* or nothing. I don't have any plans to get a production of sorts going from this but as I said willing to help a few out locally.

I've decided I will be doing loom mods for the R32. I 'may' in the future do a few for those here in SA. I'm not going to bother with the Rb25 and its VCT as I don't have the time to research and build a vct controller. My PFC is finally in AUS.. Its taken 10weeks to get to me from nengun; the majority of the wait has to do with japans holidays I believe.

I believe the HKS turbine housings are actually a touch looser than the garrett items. .64 vs .68, .82 vs .87 etc I remember Steve with his old HKS3037S (exact same spec as the Garrett GT3076r 76.2mm 56t) initially had the .6 on his and found 250rwkw on 1bar (Boostworx dyno) was pretty much max and drivability was extremely difficult, it came on like a sledge hammer making throttle control near impossible; dropping the .87 on it + an exhaust change with a set of mild 256 cams and it was making 320rwkw on 20 something psi. That did run a nice plenum and nice exh. manifold. In the near future (early next year) I plan to head up your neck of the woods to have a little play on your local track. Would be good to catch up.

URAS, I did work it out including shipping costs some time ago.. Be buggered if I can remember though. It did work out worth while I do remember that. ---- For those with top feeds; the sards are just under 600 delivered + collars; providing u can wait. I haven't had any experience with the single spray sards but their twinsprays I was extremely happy with their low rpm/duty cycle performance and economy.

The only reason I can think of is Deatschwerks give you cash back on your old injectors.

You don't seem your usual chirpy self today Paul.

Ben, Yep I'm around the same volts as you and suspect same power; all though I never did dyno it once it was running properly. I went to give it a power run and it was pumping the lifters; that was sorted and never threw it on the dyno again. But yes ~4.3v and it made 180rwkw then valve floated and power dropped. The stock afm was max'd out, dropped the z32 in and was around 4.3v as you are. Stock 270cc injectors were maxed out also. Same boost levels too but with vg30det turbo. The heads had a little work, usual port/polish, multiangle valve jobs & valve deshroud. There's quite a big difference in airflow from 4.3v to 4.7-4.8v. Another mate was maxing his std afm out at ~180rwkw, dropped the z32 in retuned and did 4.7v at 270rwkw. Won't be long before I'm pushing the boost up with the gt30; should get my rb26 pfc and fit it up this week.

$59 for Motul 8100.

Nothing to do with 'loading up the bearings'.... More so to bed the rings in so to speak.

No confusion here. I simply refuse to pay for a so called synthetic as you are at synthetic prices. Motul 8100 5w40 for this very reason is an excellent value motor oil when you consider its a grp 4 'true' synthetic when the bottle of castrol next to it is roughly the same price if not more where I shop. Also... Monitor your oil usage with that castrol 5w30.

Its well known never to be tender with a new motor. Lots of load in bursts; different amounts of load and at different rpm's. I drove mine along the seafront with lots of round abouts so lots of slowing down with hard acceleration. I disconnected my turbo's actuator so I could give it some up to 4000rpm without it instantly pushing 11-12psi.

Persistance paid off.. 5mins and finally got it out the window for 86.257m!!! More arse than class.