Cubes

I really am a little concerned you may be barking up the wrong tree. Another that has experienced the same issue but more severe; a large longer inlet pipe sorted the issue. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...5074&st=40# Have a good look at what the problem is before you go out and waste money making your turbo more laggy for no good reason.... Part throttle constant acceleration, boost starts to build and then begins surging. Turbo match related and quite common with big turbo's. GT35r's on rb30 sohc's see a little compressor surge under this circumstance. Surge/jerk as you back off the throttle after accelerating IS afm reversion. No doubt about it. HKS EIDS FTW. Nengun - $137 delivered.

The BB looks like a regular RB20/RB25 style turbo. The non-bb looks like a VLT style.

Thanks Interesting.. The RB25 block looks almost identical to the rb26 block. I wonder what the engineering theory behind ribbing vertically inbetween the bores and a ribbing horizontally through the center of the block is. Not the best angle but u can see it looks the same.

I have one thats 100% working fine. I've had it in my car to ensure it was a.ok. Pm me if your still interested with an offer.

The police check I had done wasn't a regular but the more indepth one that is required for working with children. On the certificate its titled National Police Certificate. And on it lists the court then the date offence and result Exactly what it states on the police certificate word for word: Drive in reckless or dangerous manner Inadequate lights undue noise Then the fine and states disqualified for 6months. If this would show on a regular police clearance or not I have no idea but it sure as hell has stuck on mine and its been 11years. The event occured back in 1995 (I was 16.5 years old) but took ~6months before I went to court and lost my license. Basically they threw the book at me for dropping a no brake take off burnout at dusk in the old 250 4speed Cortina. So not as bad as what you have done.

Yes. Once I've got the head back from Miltons I will be bolting it on, welding up the inlet pipe and dump pipe as quick as possible. 3-4am late nights coming up. Just finished up port matching the std exh manifold; when I dropped the rb30det in I just wanted to get it in and started. Ports 1 and 6 are out by 1.5mm towards the top of the port, 2-5 are fairly spot on.

Very nice.. Thanks.

My Rb30 block had more ribbing than the old RB20DET block. Casting quality etc looked the same; all fairly smooth, no massive dags anywhere. The RB20DET block only had ribbing across the bottom half of the block where as my RB30 block had both ribbing across the bottom half and also up inbetween the bores. Your comparing apples with oranges. The RB26 block is a 4wd block. Much like comparing the regular SR20 rwd block to that of the SR20 4wd GTIR block. Considerable differences. I've attached a couple pics of the rb20 block and rb30 block. So in many ways apples with apples. Any one care to share the same left/passenger/torque side of the rb25 block?

Hey ppls, Has any one bothered port matching the turbine inlet of their Garrett GT30/GT35 turbine housing? Mine and another (GT35) the inlet is smaller than that of the stock exhaust manifold and another aftermarket manifold that used a 'standard' T3 flange size.

Yep definitely a big thumbs up for the 535's. How were they on a track day? How long until they became squirmy?

I believe it was Just Cars that required a black wire alarm, minimum 3 point immobiliser and the alarm was self locking. My alarm is all of the above + a heap more. I always leave self locking disabled as initially I locked my self out of the car too many times. Its so easy done. Basically what one needs as a minimum: Black wire 3 point immobiliser Self Arming I also feel a hit is a must, without one what stops a theif breaking a window jumping in the drivers seat while the immobiliser is bypassed? Without it your only defence/notification of the person gaining entry to the car is if they go in through the door. I was very lucky recently to find my car parked out the front with my old mans new Navara right next to it. The old mans Navara had the lock stuffed as some one tried to gain entry. His car has an alarm but no hit sensor; the door lock and door was manged. They also tied what looked like speaker wire from the letter box to the tap so across the driveway. Luckly for what ever reason the thiefs didn't even bother with my car?!?

Do be aware with some alarms your insurance company won't cover you. When Shopping around for insurance all alarms (bar shannons which didn't seem to care) must be an aussy approved black wire alarm with a minimun 3point immobiliser. Definitely get an alarm with a hit/knock sensor what ever they are called.

Those Federal 535's aren't the most expensive tyre ($120 Each for 225/50/16) but wow I am damn impressed with their 'overall' performance. Wet grip is quite good, cornering is predictable and straight line grip ok. For $120 a pop they are the best cheap tyre around I feel.

I was done for something similiar (but didn't loose it or crash and no other cars involved) when I only just got my license 16 1/2 years of age. wow I was a silly boy back then. It went on my record and still is to this day 11years later. I recently underwent a police check and lo and behold there it was. :S

lol.. My 2 sisters have been done speeding way way more than myself and both lost their license as a result. I've had 3 speeding fines in 11 years.

So holds solid, doesn't fluctuate. Bugger. Its not that then.

SR20's struggle to pull near 300kw at the wheels on a stock bottom end let alone 8k rpm.

I know. Have you checked fuel pressure on start?

Whats fuel pressure doing on start up? What adj. fuel pressure reg are you running? I've always seen it as a fueling issue that in my case was sorted by cranking up the cold start enrichment (quicker start on initial crank) + ensuring 400rpm and start up load point is not too lean. Lean out the start up load point (current rb26 pfc is load 6000 on startup) and it stumbles.

Try 1.1 and ensure both earths are clean. It will mention on the spark plug packet how tight to do them. You'd be pushed to notice better performance but you will notice smoother idling and possibly a bee's dick better fuel economy.

Nice Results.. Care to rattle off specs? Cams, headwork, turbo etc? Would be nice to have those sort of dyno read outs from the DD Dyno's. -------- To those that have replied; Whats with the nissansivlia.com type replies? Hearing a lot of it lately.

$1200-$1300 for a RB25 PFC. I would pay it. $1500+ and its just silly.

BAMR33, I'll be watching your results closely. The price of the kit almost appears too good to be true. Be sure to let us know how it goes. I'm looking at a WI kit to push the turbo and pump fuel to its limits. Dropping static comp is not the way to go running big boost and lots of power on pump fuel. Adding WI is. When do you plan to have it tuned?

Fishpaste? GTR or GTST? Hows the oil pressure?